rooster

http://www.natoreloading.com/

This website is awesome on 9mm reloading data. Click around on everything as there’s a ton of info but you have to search for it. to www.natoreloading.com.

I don’t know who comes up with this stuff. Let me see, I’m going to take a mag that costs 20 bucks and works perfect. Make one out of metal, polish it up and charge 125 bucks, plus you have to buy a mag catch for another 25 bucks. This is crazy. I can put a 50 buck TTI basepad get 23 plus 1 and still be at half the cost.

For all you N320 users, it is now back in stock at Brownells and Graff & Sons.

Put your round in backwards, if it goes in past the rim and about a quarter inch of base then your problem is the col of that round. Your bullet is touching. EGW gauges are made to minimum Sami specs and are the tightest case gauges out there. If your round sits a little proud of the gauge check it in your barrel. If it fits then you know what you can get away with using that gauge. It’s true your barrel is the true test but you can use a gauge as a reference, as long as you know what you can get away with. If your round fits flush in a EGW gauge I’m pretty sure it will fit any barrel out there.

IIRC Vogel mounted a light and filled it with lead, and it was for limited class. A tip that I got from Johnny Glock was to polish the inside of the channel liner with Flitz or green polishing rouge, or buy the one from Lonewolf as it’s already slick because they use a different plastic. Never heard of a brass liner. Seems like a solution in search of a problem.

Here’s one other thing I learned about the micrometer seat die. Check the overall length of your bullets. If that dimension varies greatly your oal’s will also because the die seats off the ogive. So the amount of bullet inside the case will remain consistent but the oal will vary. What I do is measure a handful of bullets use the one with the shortest oal and set your die to the oal you want. Then any bullets greater than that will be off. I was also told that some manufacturers ogive’s are off and that affects oal also. Sharpie your bullet and take your die apart, put your bullet in the seat stem and twist it around and you’ll see it remove sharpie on the shoulder.

To remove powder from your hopper I use the uniquetek powder drain tool. No more activating powder bar to completely drain hopper.

Resize a case, drop in your Glock chamber. If it fits flush or a little below flush the problem is your bullet. If it doesn’t then your resize die is the problem. Measure the length of a few bullets. If your using a die that seats off the ogive of the bullet then your oal’s are going to vary quite a bit. Find your max oal, and then shorten by 20 thou. and you should be good to go.

10/4. I guess from previous post the ogive could also be inaccurate, but I measured some last night and the ogive seemed to be pretty consistent. So I took the shortest bullet, and set press with that bullet seated to 1.120, now I shouldn’t get any oal shorter that that. Which became true after measuring about 20 rounds. These are seconds, but they are from a well known company. Thanks for your help.

No, doesn’t effect accuracy maybe velocity by being shorter or longer. You will only get the same oal if your bullets are the same length. But seating off the ogive you should always have the same length of bullet in the case. If you die seats off the bullet tip, then it would be just the opposite. Your oal would be the same but the amount of bullet in the case would change. I was concerned in raising pressure by being 1.115 instead of 1.120.

I am using a Redding micrometer seat die, there is only one stem, and it looks like it seats off the ogive. So the portion of bullet that is in the case looks to me like it would always be the same regardless of the length of the bullet. I seated the smallest bullet which was .581 and marked the bullet where the case was, then took a bullet that was .587 and did the same. The portion that was in the case measured the same .210 on both bullets. So I think I have fixed my problem. The oal would always be different, but the part that is inside the case would be the same.

I bought some 9mm FMJ seconds to save a few bucks. My question is how do I determine my oal if the length of the bullets are all different. Let’s say my target oal is 1.120. My bullets measure .581 to .589 in length. I set my die to 1.120 with a randomly picked bullet. I start loading and my oal is all over the place. From 1.114 to 1.126. I’m worried about pressure at the shorter length. So I took the shortest bullet and set up my die to the 1.120 oal. This gives me .210 of bullet seated in the case. My seating die works off the ogive so even at the longer oal’s I’m still seated at .210 in the case . Is doing it this way correct?

You figure out the max oal for the that bullet in that barrel then you subtract .015 to .020 that should allow for any oal variance. You have to do this for every different bullet profile that you use in that particular barrel.

Get the ETS mag loader. Using the 100 round boxes you just slide the loader over the 10 rounds and push them into the mag. I use it all the time for production where you only can load 10, works great super fast. https://www.etsgroup.us/ETS-Group-C-A-M-Loader-p/etscam-9-40.htm

The TTI’s are great but pricey. TTI usually has a July 4th, and a couple of other sales during the year. That’s when I buy mine. I have 7 plus 3,4, and 3 plus 5,6, in 9mm. I buy Wolff 33 round Glock springs and cut to size. One trick I learned from Bob Vogel is with the TTI plus 3,4 I cut the springs to 13 coils for production. They stick out the bottom of the mag like 5 inches, you’ll never buy springs again, and they run perfect. I even tried loading to capacity which gives me 20 rounds and still works. Most gun problems are mag or bullet related, don’t scrimp on those components. I do have 7 ETS mags but use them for practice, they are cheap and work great I just won’t chance them at a match.

https://www.maxpedition.com/products/falcon-ii-backpack?utm_source=iContact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=maxpedition&utm_content=2019AUG15+Falcon-II+50%+Off&variant=12191247302727 this backpack is on sale for 50% off. Their gear is pretty good. Normally 180 bucks for 90.

I know it doesn’t jive. The distance from shellplate and stem doesn’t change, it’s fixed so how does the oal change? I’ve been told that there are so many variables that you cannot control is the reason why. Not stoking the ram same way, bullet crooked on case, loose shell plate, different brass thickness, the list goes on and on. So just accept the fact that in 9mm your going to have +or - .005, so adjust your max oal to allow for this so that your rounds do not touch barrel rifling, or use same headstamp.

When a loaded round doesn’t fit the gauge check it in your barrel, if it fits you know you can get away with that failure in the gauge. Keep doing that until you get an idea with what works in your barrel but not in the gauge. The tightest gauge I have found are the ones made by EGW, if your rounds fit in one of those you can be pretty certain it will fit your barrel.

This used to drive me nuts. But I finally just learned to live with it. Now when I change bullets or oal I do an average to my target oal. I’ll load a few then measure 10 and average. If I’m under or over I’ll adjust to get a little closer. I’ll set up, load a 100, measure 10 then average. My target right now is 1.120, I’ll get anywhere from 1.115, to 1.125. After I load a 100 I’ll pick 10 average, right now I’ve got an average of 1.119.

I don’t think progressives will work for this type shooting. The trouble is for front sight focus your looking through the bottom of both lenses, so your target will be out of focus, and vice versa when looking at target. With mono vision your picking up target with your distance lens then focusing on front sight with your close lens. For speed shooting this is the most preferred method. I’ve been doing it this way for 20 years, it’s not for everyone, some can’t get used to the mono vision. If you do it long enough your brain works everything out. Your friend needs to give the progressives a chance. Wear them for a month they really are the way to go for regular wear.

Run the bar by hand all the way till it stops, did it pick up a primer? Do this a few times if it picks up a primer and when you run the rod if it goes to the same point then rod should be ok. If not bend rod, there is a Dillon video about it. I think you bend the top part to make it swing out more. Before you do all this change primer magazine tip. They get worn.

I would try the epoxy and drill and tap. Epoxies today are really good. Worse case your back to square one, with no damage. Don’t know if heli coils go that small, but that has to be done perfect. Going up one size would rely on the spacing of the screws, so the heads might touch, or not even be feasible because of spacing. Welding up is possible but you better know what your doing. Could warp frame, filler weld is hard and drill might walk if not done perfect.

I have tried KKM, S3F, and a Barsto semifit barrels in my Glock 34 trying to edge out as much accuracy as possible. To me after spending quite a bit of money you don’t gain enough to justify the cost unless you load lead. Some say they the chambers are more supported. I compared all 3 and it’s not that much more than stock. Every time I went to the range the stock always was at least as accurate if not more. This was reinforced to me the other day when I was able to shoot the stock barrel at 35 yards at a plate rack and was able to knock them down pretty much on demand. Also was able to hit uspsa classic steel target at 50 yards pretty consistently. I only have the Barsto left and may try it next time I go to that range. Buy good ammo and practice, I think you’ll get more out of it than chasing barrels.

Dry, Dillon recommends dry, but I do polish it and take apart to clean regularly. Sometimes I’ll put a light coat of silicone.