rooster

Johnny Glock has a new video up where he turns one to a carry mode. Some suspect that he’s using a +connector to do it.

I ordered one for my 34.5 haven’t got tracking yet but did get a email saying they are now available for gen5.

Contact ETS they’ll send them to you free. Or contact them and see the process on returning the mags in exchange for new ones. They have a lifetime garrantee. I know a buddy that sends in like 10 at a time and they just send him new ones.

Something is amiss here. If your ammo checked good in the EGW but didn’t fit your barrel then your barrell is tighter than the EGW gauge. If your ammo fit the mark7 and worked in your barrel, then that gauge is tighter than your barrel. There’s nothing wrong with the gauges. You have to know that your gauge is tighter than your barrel in order to use them.

Here’s a test you can do. Size a case, check it with your gauge. If it passes, make a dummy round. Pull the bullet. If using a impact puller go easy so as not to make bullet bounce and hit or deform case. Gauge the case, if it still passes your problem is with the bullet oal. When they tell you to drill the step in the gauge your removing the chance that the bullet is touching the step causing your round not to gauge. Some of the coated rn and the truncated cone bullets especially in 147 cause you to load really short. They may plunk in your barrel but are still too long to gauge.

I’m not an expert but this is how a case gauge is supposed to work. There are two kinds of gauges, minimum and maximum. Most companies make their gauges to minimum chambers per SAMMI specs. They use the same dies that cut their barrel chambers to make their case gauges. Which is fine, but you better plunk test because not all barrells are minimum cut. A maximum case gauge is cut to maximum case Sammi specs. Don’t let the word maximum throw you off. A maximum case gauge specs are smaller than minimum chamber specs. So any round that fits a maximum case gauge has to fit any barrel that is cut to minimum chamber specs. L.E.Wilson case gauges are the only maximum gauges that I know of. When choosing a gauge you have to know that it is tighter than your chamber. Most problems occur from case bulge in 9mm. You can fix oal, and crimp relatively easy, but bulge is a little more difficult.

How can a gauge screw you? I’ve found the EGW gauges to be one of the tightest. So if a round fit the gauge it should fit the barrel.

The die that might help is the Lee u die, it gets down a little further to the rim. Brass that’s been fired in unsupported chambers will bulge at the base especially at the 6 o’clock position. I use the Redding I think it does a better job than the u die.

Does your round pass the plunk test in the barrel your going to use it in? If it does then you know with that round any that sticks out just a rim width will fit your gun. What your trying to do is make the round fit the gauge, when it might already fit your barrel. If it doesn’t fit your barrel then you have to find out why. Get a commercially made round and duplicate the measurements. Get a SAMMI 9mm drawing and mimic those dimensions. The bottom line though is if it’s fits your barrel your gtg.

If your gun is sighted in, and you pull the trigger straight to rear, without disturbing sights or dot, it is impossible to miss target. Easy said but difficult to do. If you were to slow down and do that this would take less time than the make up. With arrays of steel there is a tendency to hurry to the next one. Watch people shoot steel if there is an array like a plate rack. After you get the first couple you tend to speed up, because you think you can go faster and usually ends up in redo’s so that negates the speed of the first couple. Slow down call your shot.

I have the Tandemcross bag and what I do is open the zipper on the gun butt side a little more than half way, then open the mag flap, mine lays flat. After the make ready command slide the gun out. Do your thing and after each string put mags back in their holders. After ULSC put last mag into holder, and close flap, slide the gun into bag, zipper it up. All done. Just make sure you don’t sweep yourself.

If your seat die is seating off the bullet ogive, then the amount of bullet inside the case is pretty much spot on. 9mm oal variations can be due to a lot of reasons. Measure your bullets your probably going to get at least .005 right there, add in other factors and that’s why 9mm gets around .010 variations in oal.

I had same problem. Any reputable commercial ammo will chamber fine. But if your going to reload your own your pretty much bound to a FMJ round with a tapered nose. No coated round nose or truncated cone will fit unless you load short and I mean oal’s to 1.050 to 1.070. I tried all the big makers. I did what zzt did. All it took was a couple of turns and I was done. But now I can load pretty much any shape bullet say from 1.100 to 1.125. No loss of accuracy was noted.

Most shooters strive for around 135pf, trying to get close to 125 is asking for trouble. The chronos can be off, you might be shooting in cold wheather, bullet weights vary. If your around 130 to 135pf that .020 doesn’t matter. Your die is not going to be off .020. The variation for 9mm is +or- .010. And that’s generous. You’ll be more like .005 max.

Where the die comes in handy is if you change bullet shape, weight, or manufacture. Once you get the oal you want you record your die setting and you can go back and it will get you close to the oal you want. I’ve found in 9mm you can get variation as much as .010 plus or minus. If your looking for less than .001 forget it. It used to drive me nuts but I’ve learned to live with it. There are just too many variables that you can’t control. Bullet length, bullet ogive, mixed brass, the way you work the press, and probably more that I can’t think of. The die seats off the ogive and the manufactures get that pretty close, so even though your oal might vary the amount of bullet that in the case is pretty much spot on, and that’s what matters. When loading 9mm after finding your max oal, for that barrel you shorten that by .015, to .020 and call it good. Otherwise you’ll go nuts trying for that perfect oal.

This is a pretty good video on how to set the die up. https://youtu.be/fWkoDoFBH7I

Someone told me once to “shoot slow, do everything else fast”.

SAF, second amendment foundation.

The MGM makes 2 styles for Glock sights. One does the angled sided the other does the flat. Make sure you get the correct one. Most after market sights are flat sided.

If you go adjustable Dawson is the way to go. He pretty much owns the adjustable market. If you go fixed I recommend 10/8. I’ve had sights from most of the big makers. Dawson, TTI, Vogel, Way of the gun, and Warrens. The 10/8’s are serrated, nitrided, angled, and the u notch is fast. The only complaint is I wish the u notch was deeper. The new classic2 has the sides scalloped and it just draws your eyes to the sight. I would pair it with a Dawson front, or a TTI, or even a Vogel, as 10/8 I believe only has .060 diameter fiber optic and most USPSA shooters like the .040 rods.

Are you using oem rsa? I got a gen5 g34 and my groups were terrible. At 25 yds I couldn’t keep the shots in a uspsa a zone. Went to a 15lb rsa and I could keep all hits in the a zone. Don’t know why but the results didn’t lie. I’m now using a 13lb rsa, with a 4.5 striker spring and a dot connector.

Faxon. 1in10 twist just like factory. Button rifled. Salt bath nitrided. The only draw back is extremely short chamber. Not suitable for some bullet shapes unless you load short. Commercially loaded ammo runs fine.

Second the MGM.

I didn’t get it either. But I think you would add the average of the safety tab pull weight to the average of the (fast pulled weights). But the take up and reset positions looked incredible. I don’t think you could market or sell a aftermarket Glock trigger with a pull weight of 14 ounces. However if he could dial that back to around 3lbs, he’s definitely got something.

Do you think you could add a different trigger shoe. I just purchased a TYR shoe and really like the shape and feel. Do you think I could put on the Timney bar?