my00wrx1

Martin Kamenicek shoots a Czechmate and Eric G shot a Tanfoglio so don't think that is going to hold you back but the 2011 is by far the more popular choice. Try both before you buy if you can but either way you can always sell it and buy the other.

My barrel broke in the same spot after about 25k rounds, primarily minor PF.

Instead of looking for a spot or a mark to find your position try looking to your target or where your target will appear. If I walk into the kitchen to check the time on the clock on the microwave I don't need to look at the chipped tile on the floor or the handle on the second cupboard door above the stove to know I will now be in a position to see the clock. From my previous 'walk through' in the kitchen I know where to look directly for the clock and I can use my peripheral vision to help me move around the kitchen bench, without looking directly at it, as I walk into the kitchen to the point where I can see the clock. If my wife has left the cupboard door open obscuring the microwave I can look 'through' the cupboard door to the spot where the clock will appear in my line of vision when I am in position. When I say I look 'though' the cupboard door I don't mean I can physically see through the door but rather my vision is unfocused on the door and it is ready to focus on the clock as I move into position and it comes into sight. If this last part doesn't make sense try this - hold your finger up in front of your face, say about a foot away, and in between another more distant object. If you focus on your finger so you can see it clearly and then quickly move it out of the way and look at the object beyond your finger do you notice a slight blurring before your eyes can focus on the more distant object? If you try the same thing again but with out actually focusing on your finger, or any thing else, rather looking through or beyond it, when you move the finger out of the way and focus on the second object you should be able to focus on it that much quicker and without the momentary blurring. As the quote in your signature says "You can shoot only as fast as you can see."

Turn off the fan when weighing your loads.

The bolt holding the shell plate on could be just a little bit too tight, try backing it off. Your spent primer chute could also be jammed and be backed up with old primers which can cause similar problems but will get progressively worse. Be really careful when you are bumping the handle to free the jam that you do not crush a primer and set it off.

I had this problem the other day. As per the manual you don't want the case insert hard up against the case when the case is inserted into the shell plate once adjusted and locked in place. The tricky part was once I adjusted the case insert depth and got it right I noticed that when I tried to lock the adjusting rod in place it actually moved the rod down and backed the case insert out again. By experimenting with over adjusting the case insert I found that when I locked the rod in place it would back the case insert out to the right spot. From memory the press shouldn't be 'at rest' when adjusting this. It needs to be at full stroke which can be a bit tricky trying to hold the handle in place while also holding the rod adjustment in place with a hex key and locking it down with a spanner. I used my arm to hold the handle a full stroke leaving my hands free. I hope this makes sense, good luck.

I had a problem with rounds 'sticking' in my mags causing feeding problems. I stopped using case lube and it fixed the problem. Maybe I was using to much, but I don't really need to use it anyway.

Your probably already aware that the 2016 IPSC nationals will be held in SA in March, if you cannot shoot the match it would be a great opportunity to see some top shooters in action.

^ This is your solution

If your in accuracy mode (as opposed to speed mode) in dry fire you should always be able to call your shots. are you saying you can't call your shots in speed mode? that doesn't seem like it would be helpful, but perhaps I misunderstand. to me, accuracy mode means all alphas. Speed mode means as fast as I can manipulate the gun and see the sights. I am still calling (or learning to call) the shots, but i 'm just not judging the accuracy. If I call some c's and d's during speed mode, no big thang as long as I see them. I obviously am not calling my shots in matches because I am not doing makeups on my mikes. I do tend to see my missed shots in dry fire. I guess in dry fire I am concentrating more. In matches I am just running my program.I'm headed to the range. Any good drills I should work on to help with shot calling? Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk Dry fire a plate rack at the range. Once you are calling your shots accurately in dry fire, switch to live fire. You can switch between the 2 as needed. You don't need do this at any great distance, 10 yards is fine. When you switch to live fire make sure you know what your point of impact is. There is nothing worse than doing everything right but doubting yourself because your sights are out and your not getting your hits. Also make sure you are clearing the gun as you switch to dry fire.

If your in accuracy mode (as opposed to speed mode) in dry fire you should always be able to call your shots. are you saying you can't call your shots in speed mode? that doesn't seem like it would be helpful, but perhaps I misunderstand. to me, accuracy mode means all alphas. Speed mode means as fast as I can manipulate the gun and see the sights. I am still calling (or learning to call) the shots, but i 'm just not judging the accuracy. If I call some c's and d's during speed mode, no big thang as long as I see them. Your explanation is good. I didn't clearly explain the difference between the 2.

My CZ Czechmate has a build up of carbon on the crown of the barrel when I take the comp off. What's the best way to remove this without damaging the crown?

If your in accuracy mode (as opposed to speed mode) in dry fire you should always be able to call your shots. All you are focusing on is the sights in relation to the target. There is no distraction of noise, recoil or need to focus on getting faster. Try shooting a simulation plate rack in dry fire using small disposable plates. Just like in live fire there is no B, C or D zone. Being able to apply this for the first time while shooting a plate rack in live fire was a great experience for me. If I have my stage plan visualized and committed to memory correctly it is like shooting on auto pilot but I can see and recall exactly what I need to do without thinking about it. This leaves my conscious mind free to call my shots without the distractions of thinking about the details of shooting the stage.

TS magazines are slightly wider from side to side and front to back compared to the regular CZ 75 mags. TS magazines fit the Czechmate. My 10 round TS mags are standard and run fine in my Czechmate.

Dry fire. You know what you need to do, which is half the battle, now do it in dry fire and practice until it's just what you do. When the buzzer goes off at a match I don't think about moving my hands, gripping the hand gun, drawing it, etc. I just do it because that's what I have practised.

Does anyone have any video or opinions on moving forward aggressively from the initial start position, both where you can step backwards and where you cannot i.e. Heels starting on the rear fault line in IPSC.

You had safety glasses as well of course... I have been hit and seen too many people hit by pieces of jackets, lead splatter or full projectiles. No safety glasses, no shooting. I use Advance Ratio Sports & Tactical's thumb rest for my CZ.

Try breaking the stage down into chunks to assist with planning and memorisation. I shoot IPSC, I do not have the best memory but I can plan and memorise a stage quite easily using this technique. The first thing I do is look at the most efficient pathway way to move through the stage where their are multiple directions you need to move to. I mime and consciously say the actions to myself as I move through the stage, working out shooting positions, the shoot order for the targets, reloads (I am limited to 10 round mags) and counting targets. I do physically get into position, check what else I can see from that window or around that wall. I don't generally count steps and I don't use markers on walls, the ground etc. I am looking at or toward my next target. I rely on sighting my target, looking 'through' obstacles where required, and my peripheral vision to locate my shooting positions. This is what my initial walk through and stage plan on a 27 round stage I shot earlier in the week looked like. Move and draw, 2, 4, 6 (as I visualise and count the rounds required on each target) - move and reload - 2, 4, 6 - move and reload - 2, 4, 6, 8 - move and reload - steel, 2, 4, 6 = 7 As I walk back to the start position I count the targets from my initial walk through I just to confirm the round count like this: 6 and 6 is 12, 12 and 8 is 20, 20 and 7 is 27 After a few walk throughs and I have my stage plan worked out any further walk throughs are primarily used to to fix in my visualisation of the targets and shooting positions. In between walk throughs and after they have finished, say when patching targets, I continue to fix in my memorisation by envisioning the targets in the order I am going to shoot them as I repeat the key steps to myself. For the above stage my burn in was something like this as I envisioned the targets and repeated to myself how I would move through the stage: 2, 4, 6 - reload - 2, 4, 6 - reload, 2, 4, 6, 8, - reload - steel, 2, 4, 6 If I have burned the stage into my memory correctly when the buzzer goes off I just shoot the stage on auto pilot as I memorised it with no real conscious thought other than calling my shots.

This. On average my brass has been shot 20 plus times as a mixture of minor and major. The crimped cases I mark and use on the rare stage where I don't think I will get my brass back. Even with the crimp removed they often cause me problems when I reload them.

2 A's is 2A's whether they are snake eyes or just cutting the line. You don't need a perfect shot, just an acceptable shot.

I find I get better results if I watch the magazine into the mag well.

I got a pedestal fan to use in my garage in summer. I just turn it off when I am weighing loads.

Try this. In addition to your pistol, belt and magazines you will need a camera, a timer and pen and paper or exercise book to record your results. Range gear required is single target on a frame and preferably 2 start boxes or something similar to mark a start and shoot position. A partner to critique your performance would also assist for optimal results but is not necessary to still get great results. Don't skip ahead and follow steps in the order outlined. Do not combine multiple steps together. We are breaking down a process to its components, improving them and reassembling them for an overall improved process. Setup 2 boxes one in front of the other, 4 or 5 yards apart, with a single target say 5 yards from the second box. What ever the distances are record them so you can repeat it in the future for comparison purposes. The first step is critical to get a base line and for comparison. When recording this try to get your feet and arms in the shot. On the buzzer draw and move from the start box to shooting box and fire 1 shot into the A of the target as you normally would. Record the time and score. Repeat at least 3 - 5 times to get your average. Discard any abnormal results. Review your video. Are you moving as quickly as you can between the boxes or are you out for a Sunday stroll? Take your pistol off and your belt and mags, your not going to need them for a while. From the normal ready position, on the buzzer move from the start box to the shooting box as quickly as you can. I mean run, sprint, bolt. You don't have a pistol for this step and no need to worry about draw or sight picture etc. Review video, make sure going as fast as you can, repeat. Your learning what it feels like to move as quickly as you can. Time to focus on getting out of the start position as quickly as you can. How are you accelerating out from the ready position? What is your stance and balance like? Do they support aggressive movement? On the buzzer are you hesitating, taking little steps, getting your feet crossed up? Look in the direction you are moving, step aggressively in the direction you are moving. YouTube can be your friend here. From the normal ready position, on the buzzer move from the start box to the shooting box as quickly as you can with your revised stance and accelerating aggressively. Continue to review and repeat this and the following steps. Now we need to focus on your entry into the shooting box. This where it gets harder. Focus on your feet work as you approach the box so that your not taking unnecessary or little steps to get in position. De-accelerate as you approach the box and get into your shooting position smoothly rather than stopping suddenly. You want to be able to shoot as soon as you can as you get into position. As you are refining this you will want to starting air gunning but don't loose the focus on getting your footwork right first. This time when the buzzer starts move your hand to where your pistol would normally be as you make you initial move out of the start position and simulate the draw. As you move to shoot box work out when you need to bring the gun up, acquire your grip, extend your arms and acquire a sight picture as soon as you can efficiently and effectively. When you are ready put your gear on and use your pistol in the drill but initially only for dry fire before moving moving onto live fire. When you have practised the drill in live fire sufficiently record the time and compare to your original. You can adapt this process to any number of skills or drills but try to limit how much you are trying to learn at one time so you can focus.

How many more rounds and how much more dry fire have you done win the Glock over the Kimber? 5 times as many, 10, 20? The weight, grip, trigger etc. are all different and in a sport where 10ths of seconds make the difference the unfamiliarity will add up in the draw, transistions, splits etc. Any change takes time to get use to.

I have a 650 with a case and bullet feeder and can do 100 rounds in under 6 minutes, once all the components are loaded, without trying to go fast. All I need to do is pull the handle and watch the powder load in each case. I hang onto the now defunct Dillon bullet tray with my left hand for stability. I haven't tried to see how fast I can load, I just get into a rhythm and load 500 to a 1,000 at a time. I only stop every hundred rounds to load primers, and other components if required, and check the powder load and OAL. Every now and again something will come loose or a wrong calibre case will cause a problem but it is generally pretty smooth sailing.