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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About gianmarko

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  1. i shoot CZ and have done it for several years and you know what? i will start bad mouthing the CM too cuz this way i will be able to buy used ones dead cheap im getting one for 2k, still in the original box, a new barrel and 15k rounds on it. i have a CM i paid 2.6k with less than 5k minor rounds through it the CM will work very realiably, and i mean VERY reliably out of the box if the following conditions are satisfied: - the owner refrains from "improving" the gun - ammo is of reasonable quality. i reload mixed brass and gun just keeps working. all my malfunctions are ammo related when shooting poorly made ammo (reloaded in a hurry) and i clean the gun every 4-5k rounds... all open guns will eventually fail. seen every sort of 2011 fail and malfunction, sometimes spectacularly. tanfo will fail, CZ will fail. is true that barrels break, but that will happen every 30k rounds so not every day, and a broken barrel will still get you to the end of the stage. slide locks break. fit a new one for matches, problem solved. IMHO, the gun doesnt matter as long as it works. buying X gun rather than Y gun will not improve your match results. and changing gun will require several thousand rounds just to re-adapt. and when at the end of this process you see that you shoot better is not because the different gun, but because of the extra 10k rounds sent downrange. top shooters change gun to improve their results? nope. they change it cuz they get a better deal from the manufacturer. and they keep kicking everybody else's ass.
  2. unfortunately the resistor detached by itself and then found its way out of the red dot so we dont know what it was but we can safely assume is the same as in the other various versions, which is 330 ohm as this red dot was not very bright i replaced it with a 280 ohm, slightly brighter now.
  3. my friend's Nikko Stirling MRD failed. it is almost new, maybe 4-5000 rounds, and bracked mounted of top of an open gun as expected, it is identical to the "made in japan" TSX6 and to the CMore RTS2 this failure is nothing short of shameful. the resistor that drives the led just detached from the PCB. see picture. easy to fix, but this should not happen. quality is just crap.
  4. they are good red dots, very well designed and built. they have some weaknesses but they are cheap and super reliable im still trying a DPP on top of my czechmate, see how it goes.. at any rate, it looks much better built than these chinesium SRT2 and the such, and i can source them for around usd 450, which is relatively cheap
  5. i got a RTS2 to fix and opened it as already stated by others, it is identical to the generic MRD i already showed here. only difference is that the microcontroller is marked atmel and is an attiny13 all the rest is absolutely the same i was at a gun show saturday and had a look at the sig romeo3, and it also looks very similar with only small differences in the aluminium enclosure. would be curious to see it inside, but i wouldnt be surprised to find out it is the exact same thing with just a slightly different milled enclosure. all screws and controls are in the same position it was on "offer" at the equivalent of USD550 i wont bother posting more pics as it is exactly the same MRD except the markings outside
  6. i will get a couple RTS2 to fix so i will have a chance to take a good look and analyze the failures if they are similar to the MRD i have fixed, they are very simple in the electronics and any hobbyist with a good soldering iron and still hand can fix them and even improve them so they will not break as often low brightness can be improved by reducing the value of the limiting resistor
  7. the gun returning on target is a delicate equilibrium where many factors are at work. any change in any of these factors will disturb this equilibrium. you are shooting a different pistol, you will need a few thousand rounds to get accustomed and eventually see an improvement. thats why i stick to a gun and dont change anything unless i really have to. every change brings costs in terms of stage time and ammo to shoot to get used to the differences, and gains are often illusory.
  8. if thats the case, is really incredible considering the price of a RTS2 producing a proper electronic board would not be that expensive, a few design changes and conformal coating or potting would go a long way towards reliability the contacts themselves are ok, the problem is the mechanical and electrical interface with the rest. the chip in this specific MRD is not an attiny, unless it was scrubbed of the markings.
  9. hi all not sure is the right section, but i thought you might be interested in seeing whats inside a MRD and what justifies the top dollars required to buy one so one colleague shooter, after the advice of other colleagues shooters in italy (and against my advice) and who swore these MRD were top quality, bought a couple of these "made in japan" Benthley TSX6 red dots. https://www.erreditrading.com/red-dot/1210-red-dot-aperto-tsx6-con-illuminazione-regolabile.html they look very similar to the nikko stirling pro t4 diamond and they were priced around 250 euro apiece. according to the italian guys, they were the same MRD but sold unbranded. the T4 diamond is the MRD coming as standard on top of the BUL SAS II the two red dots failed quite soon, but were replaced for free by the shop which sold them. they currently still work. for mysterious reasons, he bought a third one, that failed pretty soon, and i got it to attempt a repair the symptoms are that randomly the red dot would shut down, usually after a couple shots. when i got it, it was working ok, banged it several times on the table and was still working, then it died completely. here below you can see how the MRD looks like from the outside (please ignore the horrible mess on my workbench...) the body of the MRD is milled aluminium, quality looks ok cant tell what material is the lens, but it looks of ok quality and looks properly installed in the body of the MRD inside i found a small PCB with a nameless chip, a capacitor, a limiting resistor to drive the LED, and a small PCB mounted 90 degs with the main PCB, carrying the two switches and the clip to hold the battery drawer. the small PCB is soldered to the main PCB with a very liberal dose of solder. the led is temporary for tests the LED module is mounted on a mechanism that allows it to be set and then locked. the mechanism looks ok-ish, and has tiny sprung ball bearings that will make the screws "click" when they are turned. the module looks ok, wires seem well anchored and it project a small and somewhat weak red dot on the glass once i had the module in hand, the led started working again, but touching the PCB it would flicker and randomly turn off after having redone all soldering, the problem was still there. then i found out that the ground wire on the pcb was cracked in correspodence with the large solder blob, as shown here after the repair the crack was not visible even with the microscope, i repaired with a little copper wire and more solder. so it looks like the small side PCB, under the stresses of the 200lbs monkey fiddling with the tiny buttons, and of the battery being knocked about by the recoil, makes the large solder blob move, and the ground copper strip will eventually crack generating this problem. the PCB has no conformal coating, and from the red dot hole in the MRD body dust, sweat, water, oil and crap can get in, so i expect the PCB and solder to eventually corrode and fail. also the led module wires were badly soldered and there was only a tiny amount of glue to fix them, so that would have also eventually failed. in short, the quality of the electronics is CRAP and smells chinese from miles away. further confirmation of the chinese origin is the fact that the red dot module wires are swapped, red is negative and black is positive. i might get hold of a couple failed Cmore MRD's and im curious to see whats inside one thing is for sure, if the MRD has to last, the battery is a very weak point. if you look at how a slideride is designed, the battery will not stress the contacts or anything else under recoil, and thats am excellent design. is probably not easy to have such solid design in a micro red dot, due to space constraints and the need to install a 3V battery for those who find their MRD red dot too weak, rather than using 2 batteries, id install another resistor in parallel with the standard limiting resistor, or replace the resistor with one of lower value. that would be a safer option than doubling voltage as the mechanical part of this MRD is ok, it would be rather simple to produce better electronics and perhaps pot them, and devise a better arrangement for the battery.
  10. gianmarko

    Bul Armory?

    i dont remember exactly the price but it was not a lot different than a Czechmate so less than 4k. i held the bullesteros gun and it weights a ton and half. not for me.
  11. gianmarko

    Bul Armory?

    i was quoted substantially less for a SAS II including a belt and holster
  12. i am very happy with the Ghost, from Amadini
  13. slide ride is hard to beat. almost total reliability, cheap, solid. for me the heght of the red dot over the bore line was never a real issue i tried mini dots (ddp) but i was a lot slower so went back to the vertical slideride i am now testing on my CM n.2 a bracket for the ddp that i designed. the ddp sits right at the back of the gun slide. ths setup is very comfortable for me, and cant really see any performance difference with the CM n.1 still equipped with the slideride i still shoot matches with the slideride, until im sure the DDP is realiable enough
  14. i know of at least 4 guys who bought DVC here in Switzerland and they had only problems, one even had a barrel breaking in two, no kidding some of them eventually got them running but was a long and expensive business. inexcusable from a gun that here was 6.5 grand
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