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gianmarko

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    Gianmarco

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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. just reviving this thread i am looking for a replacement spring for my C10P. i want to shoot it in production optics but the standard spring is too hard and i need to make PF 140 ammo to get it to cycle reliably. i have machined a steel rod but cant get a standard spring to fit, i think a flat spring is needed. unfortunately, being based in europe, no access to CZC or CGW material does anyone know if i can adapt something else, maybe a glock spring or something? gm
  2. probably potentiometer was replaced with a standard one. or was not an original cmore...
  3. the only criticism i have towards the old cmore is the brightness of the dot, that in some case is lacking when in full sunlight. that could be solved by a different led emitter i guess. personally i am not a big fan of buttons and id always go for a knob. i dont mind changing batteries often. i use 2 LR44 ( i did tests and 2xLR44 perform slightly better than the single CR1 and is cheaper) i am planning to test SR44 button cells, they are more expensive but have a slightly higher voltage and higher capacity. CR1 is lithium, LR44 is alkaline and SR44 is silver oxide. might solve the led brightness issue
  4. well, thats what engineering is all about years ago i wrote a suite of programs for invoicing, stock management, accounting etc. it all fitted on a 1.2 MB floppy disk. a 120MB hard disk would store data for 3 or 4 years of work for a middle size company, with space to spare. now i have a virtual machine with an empty Windoze 7 running on it. i just had to resize the virtual disk as at 40GB was already full...
  5. pot's leg breaking must be quite unusual, never seen it happening. one of my colleague shooter had the pot knob breaking, thats the only cmore pot i have seen failing so far. i am in several clubs and i have a reputation for fixing electronic stuff so i usually know about broken things. really not much going in inside a slideride...
  6. apart mechanical failures that are most likely result of impacts, there is not much that can go wrong in a slideride. pots of course will wear with time but are relatively easy to replace. the whole board will have to be replaced, but is cheap, and an easy job for any hobbyist, no soldering or special tools required. i have seen a case of a worn out pot, but red dot was still usable there are chinese knockoffs floating around that are very cheap and can be used as source of spare parts.
  7. but they will not randomly turn off or die in the middle of a match
  8. well i disagree partially. i cut a lot of corners. i buy second hand, lightly used czechmates at less than half price, dont "tune" them, etc and i dont think i am having any disadvantage. i spend the saved money in good material for ammo, and the saved time shooting them. regarding the original question, a red dot mount is not expensive and can usually be easily installed on any open gun. i think there is no real reason not to use one.
  9. except the cmore slideride. those do not break, must be broken by dropping the gun or something. never seen a slideride failing.
  10. 8.8 grains of SP2 behind a 124 grs FMJ, loaded at 29.3 OAL works perfectly in the CM burner powder residues are sort of greasy, resulting in no real need to clean or lubricate the gun for up to 2k rounds. i love this powder. is so heavy and dense that case is less than 75% full and no spillage during reloading.
  11. loads are ok, check them regularly and i have been using the same recipe since years CM's surely break slide stops, but not every 5-700 rounds...
  12. i would also need to extend the thread in the barrel and machine the comp a little to fit correctly, but as the gun shoots fine... the other 2 CM will drop in any barrel/comp without the need of any fitting. i think the N.2 was not properly fitted at the factory. in fact, of the 3 barrels that were in the box, only 1 fitted correctly.
  13. my CM n.2 was never properly fitted at the factory. currently i have 0.8 mm between slide and comp. she however shoots fine, and is as accurate as n.1 and n.3
  14. slide stop pins do fail. but they usually last 5-7k rounds. these ones lasted less than 1000. and i am using hardened steel pins that usually last a bit longer than the standard CZ pins. as far as i know nobody has been able to find material that would last more than a few 1000 rounds. the pins im using are really tough, they come from a large impact wrench. i tried other materials but they fail very very quickly, or bend. now i have fitted a Sebo slide stop pin, see how it goes. they are way cheaper than the CZ ones, assuming you can find them. as i changed both barrel and comp, the problem could be the barrel. thats why i will re-fit the old one to remove one variable
  15. not sure what you mean. can you do half turns? my comp fitted fine with no mods or work.
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