my00wrx1

You could do some work on your gun control - watch your body move backwards compared to the background as you shoot.

I posted this previously in relation to a similar question someone had. Advice to myself if I had a time machine: Read a book on fundamentals like Practical Pistol Reloaded, then get a dry fire book/s and start training. Set up a dry fire training schedule and live fire practice at least once a week, preferably with another motivated shooter either at a similar or better level of skill. Read Beyond Fundamentals. Expand you knowledge, the other books are good too (Lanny Basham's should be added to the list), and there are some good DVD's. Re-read them, particularly Beyond Fundamentals. The more you shoot and the more your knowledge grows the more it will make sense. Ben and Steve's podcasts are good listen to and beat listening to the crap on the radio or the drone of the lawn mower etc. Don't forget to read the rule book too. Seek constructive feed back, use video to analyse your performance. Take some classes. Developing speed should be a key focus of your training. Eventually your training will focus on identified weaknesses rather a set of basic or random drills. Acknowledge and accept some key things early in your shooting career: Quality training and practice beat going through the motions hands down; Training and preparing yourself mentally can be as critical as your shooting skills on match day; What may get you to your goals today may not get you to your goals tomorrow; Match your participation to your expectations

http://www.ipsc.org/classification/whatis.php My region uses a 'grading' system domestically. It is based on performance at appropriate level 3 and above matches. There is a 3 stage grading match but I do not believe it is widely used, certainly not in my local area.

It is not covered under warranty? Hmm, apparently there is no problem with the original design but they have changed the design of the barrel lug? Did you need to modify the guide ride to fit to the new style barrel lug?

I think ideally 90%+ points whatever your grade but it can depend on the stages/match. I have never worried about the split between A, C and D as long as the overall % is acceptable. DVC has a silent E for efficiency - correctly balancing your current speed and accuracy plus power factor will get you the best result on match day. Easier said than done. Steve Anderson's podcasts have some good information on training modes - speed, accuracy and match.

Quality screws can make all the difference

Advice to myself if I had a time machine: Read a book on fundamentals like Practical Pistol Reloaded, then get a dry fire book/s and start training. Set up a dry fire training schedule and live fire practice at least once a week, preferably with another motivated shooter either at a similar or better level of skill. Read Beyond Fundamentals. Expand you knowledge, the other books are good too (Lanny Basham's should be added to the list), and there are some good DVD's. Re-read them, particularly Beyond Fundamentals. The more you shoot and the more your knowledge grows the more it will make sense. Ben and Steve's podcasts are good listen to and beat listening to the crap on the radio or the drone of the lawn mower etc. Don't forget to read the rule book too. Seek constructive feed back, use video to analyse your performance. Take some classes. Developing speed should be a key focus of your training. Eventually your training will focus on identified weaknesses rather a set of basic or random drills. Acknowledge and accept some key things early in your shooting career: Quality training and practice beat going through the motions hands down; Training and preparing yourself mentally can be as critical as your shooting skills on match day; What may get you to your goals today may not get you to your goals tomorrow; Match your participation to your expectations.

I like to open any doors during my walk through and never been told I could not. I have seen seen too many people DQ'ed for sweeping and there are a whole range of aspects that come into play depending on how close to the door you are starting, where the handle is located, which side you are approaching it from, which side it opens from, if the door is stiff or has a tendency to swing closed etc.

I have seen case lube go tacky and cause rounds to feed poorly in magazines.

Do you use case lube when your reloading?

Rough numbers but food for thought - my last match time was about 150 seconds with about 15 reloads (restricted to 10 rounds). At say 1.5 seconds each that means I spent 22.5 seconds or 15% of my time reloading. Sure I was moving for just about all of those but I know I move more efficiently when I am not reloading.

What do you use to polish?

Did you get the broken one replaced under warranty? Is anyone making lightweight aftermarket comps?

I broke another barrel on my CZ Czechmate last week but not as spectacularly as yours. It is in getting one of the newer version barrels fitted now. As as an aside the actor in the video, John Clarke, died a couple of weeks ago

Here is the full tutorial from Cajun Gun Works, according to point # 2 there is no such thing https://cajungunworks.com/technical-support/

I drop test 100% of all my ammo. Drop testing is also a good time to pick up on the odd high primer by running my thumb over them. For a major match I load a batch of about 500 rounds. I chrono that batch of ammo and check the POI.

Do you mean relaxed prior to the start signal or during actual shooting?

Try the accelerator drill for this.

Put the nut end in a vice protected by timber/plastic/rag. You can then get a better grip on the other end or use 2 hands if required. Chances are it has a build up of carbon between the crown of the barrel and the nut which has cemented the 2 together.

I don't have the money for a spare gun but I do have gun that is pretty reliable and have plenty of spare parts. The spare parts are primarily cheap springs and pins so not much money tied up in those. Even the more expensive spare parts like slide stops and extractors are wear parts so they will get used at some point. The breakages I have had have all been 5 - 10 minute fixes apart from a cmore that needed to be replaced. If if I had the money and travelled to level 3 matches regularly I would get 1 for sure but for now I just try to be as prepared as I can.

I posted this a while back: Instead of looking for a spot or a mark to find your position try looking to your target or where your target will appear. If I walk into the kitchen to check the time on the clock on the microwave I don't need to look at the chipped tile on the floor or the handle on the second cupboard door above the stove to know I will now be in a position to see the clock. From my previous 'walk through' in the kitchen I know where to look directly for the clock and I can use my peripheral vision to help me move around the kitchen bench, without looking directly at it, as I walk into the kitchen to the point where I can see the clock. If my wife has left the cupboard door open obscuring the microwave I can look 'through' the cupboard door to the spot where the clock will appear in my line of vision when I am in position. When I say I look 'though' the cupboard door I don't mean I can physically see through the door but rather my vision is unfocused on the door and it is ready to focus on the clock as I move into position and it comes into sight. If this last part doesn't make sense try this - hold your finger up in front of your face, say about a foot away, and in between another more distant object. If you focus on your finger so you can see it clearly and then quickly move it out of the way and look at the object beyond your finger do you notice a slight blurring before your eyes can focus on the more distant object? If you try the same thing again but with out actually focusing on your finger, or any thing else, rather looking through or beyond it, when you move the finger out of the way and focus on the second object you should be able to focus on it that much quicker and without the momentary blurring. As the quote in your signature says "You can shoot only as fast as you can see."

Trigger return spring and pin, firing pin spring, extractor, spring and pin, recoil springs. Try the sidewinder slide racker.

Thanks Bkreutz, I take it you need to send the complete Slideride to them?

I have a C-more Slideride on a CZ Czechmate. Today the dot started to shut off and fade in and out. This particularly occurred after a shot had been fired, the slide racked or sometimes if the gun was tapped or bumped. When the dot had shut off or was faint I noticed that if I applied some pressure to the on/off twist switch, pushing the switch forward slightly, the dot would come back on or brighten. The on/off twist switch is the non-click type. Is this likely to be a simple fix by replacing the diode or more likely the C-more has some other problem and I need a new one? I tried replacing the battery and used contact cleaner and compressed air to clean the diode and around the switch without success.