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Try the CZ European site for these parts.

You have to be careful to not loosen any loctite that will be on the comp threads. I try to not get too carried away with any solvents near the end of the barrel. The cleanest I have seen a comp is after glass bead blasting. Has anyone had success with this. My sonic cleaner turned up this week and I haven't used it yet. I only have the brass cleaning solution so I was thinking about trying it using just water. Would it work ok with barells too?

Steve Anderson had some suggestions in one of his recent pod casts along the lines of movement (getting into and out of positions) and transitions (moving your your eyes from target to target). Alternatively maybe you could watch some training video's or read some books. Maybe not what you had in mind but your dry fire options are limited without access to a pistol.

A great idea to keep you in the game. You may be the worlds best weak hand shooter in 6 months time....

Thank guys. I adjusted the over travel screw and it seemed to make it worse, so I then adjusted the pre-travel screw and that appears to have fixed the problem (I noticed that I needed to push the trigger forward to get it to reset). Any suggestions on how to secure the screws without first taking them out (and losing the adjustment) to apply nail polish etc.

I agree, I found this to my detriment when trying to fit 10 hours of work into an 8 hour work day. Putting priorisation aside, I generally found that the task I least wanted to do was the one I should do first.

Did you have the wrong mind set? If you have been shooting well and go to a match with an attitude along the lines of "I'm going to show everyone how good I am" or something similar there is a good chance it will result in embarrassment on your part as you are not focusing on what you should be.

Jerry barnharts DVDs are very comprehensive, though they were made a few years ago now.

I have had some problems recently with the trigger/hammer on my Czechmate. The first couple of times when the round didn't fire I ejected it and the next round fired fine but with the the last couple I have stopped and paid a bit more attention. I noticed that the trigger did not function with normal pressure applied but with a bit more pressure it went to half cock. On the last occasion I had to use a bit more effort to eject the chambered round but the round appeared to be fine and subsequently fired fine. Any suggestions on what the problem could be?

From Brian Enos himself: http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillonfaqs.html#6501050 The 650 or the 1050? FAQ Top I could probably afford the 1050, but do I really need it? I asked this question to three friends and long-time reloaders at Dillon Precision. Their answer: If you'll only load one to three-thousand rounds per month, and plan to switch calibers from now and then to frequently, get the 650. If you plan to shoot 50,000 to 60,000 rounds a year (4,000+ rounds/month), especially in a single caliber - get the 1050. So, if caliber changes will be involved, lean toward the 650. If you don't plan to switch calibers, and would just like to set down at the machine and crank out some serious ammo when you have a few minutes - get the 1050. In the same way one knows if they're ready for the 650 over the 550, one usually knows when they're ready for a 1050. One last note on the 1050's warranty: Unlike the lifetime "no BS" warranty for all other Dillon's machines, the Super 1050 has a one year warranty. Meaning, if after a year, you break the Shellplate on your 1050 by adjusting the primer pocket swager improperly, you'll buy a new one. But if something small or inexpensive breaks, they will probably take care of you, if you ask nice, maybe. I loaded 30,000+ rounds a year for many years on one 1050, and I can't remember ever breaking anything. To me, the 1050's one year warranty would not even be a consideration when choosing between a 650 and a 1050.

Any recommendations for editing software? The contour software is very limited.

Try this. Set up a course of fire and shoot it as you normally would. Do it again but without the pistol and just focus on moving through the course as quickly as you can (i.e flat out). Feel the difference between the 2. Now try again but blend the 2 making sure your safe and your getting your hits. Video is your friend. Another (preferably more experienced) shooter can also help with an on the spot critique.

Well done for such a new shooter. Make sure you know your stage plan. On one of the stages in particular you lost time while you lined up on targets you didn't actually shoot before moving onto another target. If I can not close my eyes and visualize the whole stage and how I am going to shoot it I don't know it well enough. In general, Work out a list of what you need to learn to do to shoot well, prioritize it and then start working on them one or two at a time.

Predator tactical has a dry fire swinger for use on your computer in their knowledge base.

Great video. I find that if you break the action down to its component steps (like in the video) and focus on getting them correct (with no concern for the time) and then start building speed before long you can do it correctly and quickly without thinking about it. As you build the speed, periodically check your technique is correct. Your ego may get a boost if you can complete the action quickly before you get the technique correct however you may find that you prematurely limit your progress (and speed) due to the incorrect technique. You can apply this to any action you are learning.

Here's a video (if it works). I did it in 6.38 and the stage winner 4.35 but I didn't see him shoot it. I shot the paper first then steel and on the other 2 the steel first.

They were forward falling poppers (not pepper poppers) and classic targets. I did some dry fire on this tonight and for me it was quicker to shoot a popper then the paper behind it before moving onto the next steel.

At a recent match we had 3 poppers in front of 3 targets with the edges almost touching at about 10 yards with the poppers obscuring the middle bottom half of the target. From what I recall all the shooters in my squad shot all the steel first and then came back and shot the paper. It didn't ask at the time but I assume it was because they were concerned they would hit the steel again as it fell if they tried to shoot each paper straight after each steel and rather than wait for the steel to drop and clear the target they moved onto the next popper. How would you shoot it and why?

I cleaned one of my mags after a stage at a match today, I'm sure glad I had my safety glasses on because I ended ended up with an escaped mag spring hitting right in the middle of the right lense....

The 'dry fire timer' app is great for dry fire but it doesn't pick up clicks or live fire. That fact that you can turn the volume down is very handy so you are not disturbing the whole house. I have done a review on the forum and on iTunes. I've found it better than the other apps for dry fire in part because you can set strings and don't have to continually reset the timer.

To reduce your nerves and retain your focus try these couple of things: 1. Spend some time dry firing before the match, either at home before you leave or get to the match early (not for hours, just enough to warm up) 2. Make sure your you are organised before its your turn to shoot so you are not running around at the last minute looking for stuff or wondering if you have re-loaded your mags when your in the starting box; 3. Once the stage is open for a walk through use the time to count the rounds, make a plan and burn it into your memory. If you have to wait some time before it is your turn to shoot, run through the stage again both physically and mentally several times a shooter or 2 before your turn; 4. In the starting box run through your pre-shooting routine i.e. check your dot is on, your muffs are on etc. what ever it may be and then run through the stage in your mind a final time. The outcome of all of this should be that you are not distracted, you know what you need to do, so when the buzzer goes off all you have to do is do it.

I primarily use WIN, generally any problems I have had are due to OAL being too long. Case gauging is a must if you want to maximise reliability.

Have either of you guys noticed that if you screw the comp up tight it is off centre i.e. the guide rod won't line up with the locating hole in the comp. I have to back mine off a little to line it up and while it works fine it bothers me a little that the comp is not done up tight.

Now that is cool!

Take the high road and skip the abuse, you would look pretty bad if it made PF.