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Found 39 results

  1. I've been out of the reloading game for 12+ years or so. I used to really enjoying getting my off-the-rack basic bolt action hunting rifles dialed in with super-accurate loads on the single stage RCBS I had. Work, family and etc dominated my time and hunting fell off....thus the need to reload. I sold all my gear to a hunting buddy who has been using it with great results ever since. I do find myself getting by the local indoor range weekly and burning through some 9mm, 45acp and other stuff. I also have some offers to hunt with some friends at places that are much closer to home than my old leases.....I'm talking like a 15 minute drive. Looks like I'll take them up on the offer and sneak out to some hunts this year. My father is really enjoying his retirement and is hitting the indoor range twice a week. He's made the comment on a number of occasions that he'd love it if I was reloading again and could keep him fed with .38scpl wadcutter rounds. Last month my Dillon XL650 arrived on my doorstep. Since then I've bought the case feeder and a few full quick change setups for 9mm, 45acp, 44scpl/mag, .38spcl/mag. Once I get it set up in the weeks ahead (when I have some time off work) I will be rolling my own target loads once again. Here's the crazy part......I decided to go ahead and get a 550C, too. Tracking info is showing it'll be on my doorstep sometime tomorrow. I'm planning on using it for .30'06, .45/70 and .308win in the beginning. The powder measure that comes with it will be actually used on a toolhead for the XL650. I'll most likely be manually weighting and trickling each charge for the rifle loads on the 550C. A buddy (mainly a handgun target guy) said I was nuts for simply not doing everything on the XL650. I can understand his point, but I wanted the manual indexing of the 550 and faster changeovers with no casefeeder parts to condend with. The toolheads & conversion kits alone will pay for the 550 as I add more calibers in the future (none will use powder measures). I can leave the XL650 setup for larger runs of target stuff and be able to do whatever the flavor of the day is on the 550C. Looking forward to getting going again. Glad to have gone with Dillon finally.....it's been a long time coming. I'll have plenty of questions in the future and will be grateful for the help that is found on this forum.
  2. Well after owning my XL650 for a year I finally loaded 6 batches of 10 rounds each working up in powder grains to get a sense of the differences. Prior to this week I had never shot a reloaded pistol round (9mm). I've got to say I friggin' loved it. My first ten rounds were 3.6gr of Titegroup with 1.125ish OAL. Shooting a 124gr Hornady FMJ-RN out of my Glock 34 I use for USPSA CO. I worked up .1gr on each of the next 5 batches. I shot all through my chronograph and documented the fps of each round. But I have a question about process for working up loads and getting consistency with OAL... Like I mentioned I only worked up 10 rounds in a variety of powder grain amount. I have been reading on here (after the fact) and found some suggestions for consistent OAL such as making sure the shellplate isn't too wobbly and making sure each station of the shellplate has a case on it. Both make sense except how do I work up small, consistent batches that way? Am I thinking too small? Should my test batches be more rounds (like 100 or so)? Do I just put the beginning and end rounds aside and shoot them for practice? Or should I recycle the materials for later use? Would love to hear your best practices in this process. My OAL was all over the place not consistent at all. How consistent should it be? For example if my target is 1.125 what is an acceptable range? What is a preferred? I'm a little OCD when it comes to consistency but I wonder if I'm not being realistic. Hopefully longer runs with a full shellplate will help matters. I think my bell may be too large now as well now that I re-read the manual. I attached my data in case anyone wants to take a look. Just know that the OAL documented is approximate since it wandered... Thanks in advance! Load-Data-Record-Book.pdf
  3. I haven’t seen anyone do this before. So. Here’s how I fit all of my reloading gear into the guest room closet: I have been loading in the garage on a spacious workbench for ten years. I do a lot of welding and fab work so grinding dust and clutter and the humidity of a southern climate have always been concerns. I decided to move my 650 / bulletfeeder / all the upgrades setup into the house. I built a very solid but ultra light and compact frame from 1” square tubing and a leftover section of angle iron. Two solidly braced legs and two 3” screws lagging it into the wall studs. Ford blue engine paint matches the Dillon halfway decently (it’s a shade darker) and a red oak stairway plank from Home Depot got coated in polyurethane as the tabletop. My old bench was six legs made with 4x4 lumber and long drywall screws and is not nearly as solid as this. Nothing flinches if you hang off the handle anymore: the old bench had some flex I didn’t notice until now. Additionally I screwed a power strip to the wall next to the door that powers up my lighting and everything else with one flick. Added cheap compact shelving from HD that suited my space. Added wall storage for grip trainers and my USPSA belt rigs. A 24” LED light provides a shocking amount of light in such a small, reflective space. Table is 20” x 18” and the top is 36” from the floor. I’d prefer it to be 2” higher for my 6 foot tall height... but this gives me six inches between the top of the ceiling and the casefeeder. I leave it permanently full now: I can walk in and just resume pulling the handle at any time. I’m trying to load ~50 rounds a day, which is 3-5 minutes of work work with the bulletfeeder added... so I’m never in need of ammo before a match. Ford Blue engine paint from Autozone: Welded up and primed painted: Lagged into two wall studs: Table top installed, no organization on the shelves: Press freshly bolted down. Cords and unorganized mess: Cabled all the cords together neatly, starting to figure out where I want to store things: Finished. Aerosols and such on the door. Belts hung on the wall. A cleaner cardboard box to store tumbled brass on the floor, and the primer catcher kit bolted on to route spent primers into my trash bucket under the bench:
  4. Does any one know where I can find a list of which die sets (serial numbers) share dies, asking about Dillon specifically. I'm going to start loading for my 2011 38sc. And I was wondering if all 3 dies are different or just one or 2. I plan on getting a full conversion from 9-38sc with individual powder measures. So trying to save time by just swapping a die or 2 out. Thanks all.
  5. I noticed some other threads discussing independent mounting solutions for the Mr Bullet Feeder and thought this might be useful for anyone thinking along those lines. For reasons that have nothing to do with this thread ... I decided to use an RCBS collator on my XL650 and was shocked to find out I had no easy mounting solution since my press was on a strong mount. The "leaning" green pole provided with that bullet feeder just wouldn't get it. Anyhow ... I needed a pole mount .. and my OCD needed something that was going to look like it belonged on the press. Of course .. if you need a solution for a Dillon press you need to check there first and I found they already had them in stock. Using a stock Dillon case feeder mount (for a 650 ... a whomping $22) ... you simply turn it around 180 degrees and wala ... it becomes a collator mount. There is another arm used on the SL900 that holds a shot bucket but it hung out more in the 9 o'clock position and didn't work for me. The 650 case feeder mount ends up at the 7 o'clock position and comes out to the edge of the front of the toolhead ... just what I needed. I attached the "extra" pole just like the SL900 but put a couple of spacers in to get it just right. Putting one of these on provides an easy solution if you are looking for a pole to bolt something too. The inside diameter is 7/8 inch and even 3/4 copper pipe telescopes firmly if you need to add on.
  6. I am planning to get a case feeder (at last) for my Dillon XL650! I load 9mm and .40, and after some research, I can't figure out which size case feeder to get, the one with the large or small pistol plate. I have found a number of people that claim they were told to get both for my exact situation. (intended calibers of use) I am hoping I can get enough responses of which size case feeder to get and your explanation of how well it works for each caliber, that I can make a confident decision on my purchase. My previous post started this discussion, but never really got me to a solid answer, people were claiming both work, but I want to know which works best...
  7. Hello All, I recently received my XL650 and have run into a snag when setting up my dies for 300 Blackout. I almost exclusively reload subsonic with cast bullets for the 300 blackout. Because of this, I need to bell the case mouth ever so slightly to avoid cutting into the bullet. On my old Loadmaster, I had five stations so I could fit an Expander die in slot 2 and run with it. On my XL650, my only extra station is taken up by the powder check so no room for the expander die. I need solutions. From my point of view, I have two main options: Remove the Powder Check(prefer not to since I bought it) or Run exclusively jacketed/plated bullets(not really financially feasible for me). I have been unable to find a powder funnel that would bell the case mouth for the powder measure (please correct me if I am wrong. At this point, I'm probably going to end up removing the powder check but are there any other solutions you guys/gals can think up? Thank you for any help!
  8. First off, I have been reading everything I can lately regarding the 650. I feel like I have the blue itch. Lately it seems like I have spent more time tweaking a machine than loading. Currently I am loading on a Hornady LnL without case feeder, but I do have the bullet feeder tubes. I bought it 2 years ago after a ton of research. Mostly due to caliber conversion ease and being relatively new to loading. The internet pushed me that direction. Fast forward, I feel like I could have made a better choice. Now I shoot just production, at about 1k+ a month. All other loading is done on a single stage for revolvers. The volume on those is only 1500 a year. And I rarely shoot rifle anymore. So here is where I am. I'd love some real world input on time savings. Especially if anyone has used or owned both machines. I know its hard not to be biased sometimes. My idea is I can go down to the basement with a free hour and turn out 400+ rounds without having to tweak and adjust. Turnkey basically. Now understanding anything mechanical can fail and need maintenance will the 650 do this? And what in your honest opinions would you consider the drawbacks or cons of the 650?
  9. Is there anything available where I can stop the feeding of my primers and cases, without completely emptying my cases and primers? Currently, I use a large pen to stop the case feed arm and a ziptie to hold back my primer index arm. Any ideas? Edit: I'm using a XL650
  10. Hi - I've had my XL650 for a few months, and haven't had a ton of time to work it. So consider it 'still new'. This is my 'third round' of ammunition through it. I am loading .223 from used brass that I've shot once from factory loaded ammo I purchased, usually American Eagle in the black box in lots of 100. I am having what i think is a larger than normal 'failure' of the primer into the primer pocket and looking for advice. If I do a 'batch' of ammo, out of about 150 rounds, maybe 20 have some time of primer issue. The primer either is missing/fails to seat when the ammo gets through the press, or in more rarer cases it's in the pocket, but either at a horrible angle, or in a few instances just 'not in all the way'. I can usually tell when this happens, as there is a rather 'crunch' feeling when I push the press handle back to seat the primer. In most cases the kinetic hammer will dislodge everything correctly. There are a couple pieces of brass I'm not sure what to do in that the brass is empty and the primer is goofed up somehow, and not sure what the best way to remove the primer is. I'm wondering if anyone has some tips on what I am doing incorrectly here. I am trying to decide if it's a 'how I put the primer in the tube' issue, or something else. What path should I take? Thanks.
  11. Loaded some .380acp the other day and after I finished, I noticed it sounded like some cases were left in the hopper, likely under the plate since I had run the casefeeder until no more cases dropped. Today, I checked under the plate - no cases there, so I removed the casefeeder, shook it around a little, and here are the cases: I guess the microswitch malfunctioned and cases fed too high? Edit: There were 12 cases in there and they were all 9mm! The last few times I've loaded have all been .380, so these got in there a while back. i guess I only noticed now because after the recent loading session, I moved the press and that's when I heard cases rolling around and figured they were under the plate.
  12. I've snapped the failsafe rod shoulder washer (white plastic piece in pic, ignore incorrect positioning above bracket, just a pic I grabbed off the internet) a couple of times. Not sure what I'm doing wrong that is causing this to happen. Any ideas?
  13. Loaded up some .380ACP on the XL650 using Lee dies. I had several cases where the decapping pin separated the back of the old primer from its body, leaving the walls of the old primer stuck in the case. The brass was purchased in bulk from a guy on another forum who sells pickup range brass. Anyone run into this? Maybe there was some corrosion that caused the primer walls to bind to the case? What would cause that?
  14. I know there are various round counters that people use, but does anyone have a completed round counter (as opposed to an operating handle pull counter) that they built and can share the plans for? I'm thinking an optical sensor that sits over the completed cartridge chute wired to a digital counter. Those are cheap parts that can be purchased on fleabay, McMaster, etc.
  15. Loaded up some .380acp and had a couple of cases get under the small pistol casefeed plate (they then roll to the bottom of the slanted casefeed hopper). I've experienced this with 9mm before, but that seemed to happen when there was a jam at the mouth of the tube, which may have wedged the plate up a little bit, allowing room for the cases to slip under the plate. With .380, no jams and still have cases getting under the plate. Anyone else experiencing this? I do have the large washer installed underneath the plate as per the Dillon manual.
  16. Looking for ideas for an inexpensive mirror that mounts to the casefeeder or the casefeed support tube. I live in an apartment, so I don't want to punch a hole in the wall or ceiling if I don't need to. Perhaps something that swivels so that I can see into the casefeed bowl from both seated and standing positions.
  17. Discovering that .380 cases don't feed very well through the 9mm (green) casefeed adapter. When the cases are sitting offset/angled relative to one another on top of the casefeed body, the casefeed arm is able to sweep out the lowest case. This is what usually happens. Every now and then, the bottom 2 cases will stack perfectly such that one case is sitting just inside another case's mouth, and then the casefeed arm cannot sweep out the lowest case. I verified this was the issue causing jams by manually pushing on the casefeed arm. It's doesn't budge in this situation without forcing it. Lift up the stack off the bottom case (e.g., with a letter opener) and the casefeed arm can easily sweep out the bottom case. Anyone else run into this? Any workarounds other than getting the .380 (white) casefeed adapter? Wondering how the .380 adapter gets around this problem . . .
  18. Sort of a strange question I suppose. I live in an apartment building and just wondering what type of damage would occur to the apartment unit if I had a daisy chain primer detonation, and if there is any way to minimize the damage in the event of an explosion. Obviously I cannot cap the magazine shield as the explosion needs to vent and trying to contain that venting just makes for a bigger explosion which could burst the magazine shield open. I am very mindful about the danger of primers. I sort my 9mm brass (only loading 9mm so far) to remove NATO cases, and pay close attention to the primer seating portion of the upstroke and stop immediately if I feel unusual resistance. I also keep the primer disc, primer magazine and pickup tubes relatively clean to try and minimize the possibility of a detonation at station 2 daisy chaining around the disc and into the primer tube via primer dust (from all the reading I've done here, I assume excessive primer dust is usually the difference between the detonations that are isolated at station 2 and the daisy chain kabooms).
  19. I've been noticing that the primer disc on my 650 doesn't seem to always fully advance - when this happens, there are a few accompanying symptoms: 1. very difficult to push forward into the primer seating portion of the upstroke 2. sometimes when pushing through the resistance in (1), the primer disc hole is close enough to alignment with the unprimed case that the primer seater is able to seat the primer and in the process, move the disc into the fully advanced position. Other times, pushing through the resistance in (1) results in an angled-seated and mashed primer. 3. what often works when I feel the resistance in (1) is give the primer indexing arm a slight pull, and then the press handle will 'release' (i.e., resistance disappears) and I can smoothly seat the primer. Sometimes, just backing off on the handle and then pushing again also works. 4. case insert slide does not fully seat the case - this seems very much related to the primer disc advancement because the case insert slide does fully seat the case if there is no case in station 2 or if I am able to complete the seating portion of the upstroke without any unusual resistance. This makes sense since the case insert slide is adjusted to fully seat a case into the shellplate at the full upstroke position of the press handle. I was noticing all of the above last loading session when I noticed how worn the primer cam appeared. I replaced the cam with a new one from the spare parts kit, and that made a significant difference, with fewer instances of the primer disc not seeming to fully advance. But the problem is not fully eliminated, and aside from how much it slows loading, it seems to result in inconsistent powder charges, since I'll typically have to stop the forward/primer seating stroke when I encounter the stiff resistance, back off on the handle (including sometimes tugging a little on the primer indexing arm), and push again to both seat the primer as well as fully advance the case insert slide. This is an older press, so I'm guessing that the worn primer cam may be a sign that other parts of the primer system are worn as well, but not sure what to look for or how best to diagnose this. Any suggestions (besides call Dillon, which I'm going to do after the long weekend)?
  20. Borrowed a friend's alignment tool to see if it would help resolve an issue I've been having with alignment of shellplate and primer disc (http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=215738). At first I thought it was the primer disc, but realized it could also be where the shellplate indexes to, so I borrowed the alignment tool (the larger alignment tool, not the small one that sits on the primer punch - I've already used that, and have maxed out movement on the indexer block and the primer punch is still toward one edge of the shellplate slot). Anyway, I removed the platform and noticed a portion of the platform that makes up the hole that the index ball and spring sit in is gouged out. I'm assuming this is not the design. Not sure if it is a problem, since there is still enough metal for the spring to sit in. Also noticed the index return spring is quite kinked. I've got a spare in the parts kit, but didn't know if this is normal for the spring once it's in use.
  21. With a 9mm case fully inserted by hand in station 1 (taking the case insert slide out of the equation for the time being), I can see that the case tips slightly as it goes into the mouth of the Lee sizing die. The case tips inward, indicating that the center of the die is farther inward than the center of the shellplate case slot. Stacking tolerances - this slight misalignment, case variability, case bouncing out of fully seated position in shellplate due to vibration while operating press, etc., results in periodic jams at station 1 where the case mouth hits the sizing die mouth. What can I do to ease this situation? I adjusted the sizing die by threading it into the toolholder until it just contacted the shellplate with the ram up, then inserted a case, raised ram to insert case into die, then tightened lockring. Would it help to adjust the sizing die with the case a very tiny bit away from fully inserted into the shellplate (i.e., and thus perhaps causing the die to be slightly more angled outward)? Would using a Dillon 9mm sizing die help? Does it have a larger mouth than the Lee 9mm die? Any other suggestions?
  22. I'd like to make some dummy rounds - no primer, no powder. Is there an easy way to do this without emptying the hopper (and without spilling powder by powdering a deprimed case)? Basically I'd like to bell the case without activating powder drop.
  23. Noticed that sometimes 9mm cases will work themselves under the small casefeed plate. Seems they must be getting under the plate at the point where they should be entering the tube. Any tips on preventing this?
  24. I was installing the powder bar and noticed for the first time that the smaller of the 2 brass pieces of the bellcrank has a bend in it. I don't recall using the kind of force that would bend it. Is the bend normal? I noticed that it contributes to a jerky return motion of the powder bar (as it returns to neutral position underneath the hopper). Also the wire hook at the upper portion of the bellcrank isn't fully seated on the rod by the small white plastic cube. Normal?
  25. Greetings from Oklahoma! I'm the proud owner of a shiny new Dillon XL650, and wanted to introduce and warn all the experienced reloaders that I intend to pester them for knowledge. Thanks in advance for the warm welcome. Niland
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