Chris777

I have a match in two weeks. I will give the M&P a run and see if i shoot better or if I was just looking for a reason for why my suck level has been rising lately Also may play with S2 recoil springs to see if I can get the gun to track better after. Using an 11 lb spring in there now with 124gr 125ish PF rounds. My M&P is just snappier with these rounds and the tracks right back on target after firing. The S2 is close, but does take a bit more grip focus for me to get the slide to cycle and end up back on target. Most of my second shots with the S2 are 6 o'clock low... again..need to work on beefing up my girly wrists...

I have been shooting my Shadow 2 for about 2 years in USPSA production. Love the gun, its way more accurate than I ever will be, but I am noticing that its heft is making recoil control for me a bit of an issue. Also feel i am bouncing the gun more if I am shooting on the move a lot more than I do with my M&P 9 FS. Both guns fit me well, but I am thinking of putting the CZ S2 down for a while and going back to my plastic, light weight M&P with Apex FFT. I know the response will be go to the gym and work on developing a stronger grip, etc, but was wondering if I was the only person that has shot the S2 for a while and just feel they are faster and able to transition to targets better/faster with a plastic/striker fired pistol? Not trying to start a flame on CZ vs. M&P or plastic guns....

I have had less than desired results with my MA 9MM sizer. The MA de-cappers are great. MA just raised their prices quite a bit, so if I were buying a new set, I would buy the Redding dies. I have used Dillon, Hornady, Lyman, Lee and RCBS. Reddings are more money, but you will not be disappointed. If Reddings are too much, I have had good luck with Hornady dies.

Looks like Jay can add another successful buyout to his portfolio. Hope Lyman keeps up the quality of the Mark 7 products but hopefully lowers the prices with their economy of scale operations.. We will see...

Update: Just saw there was a thread on this topic.. MODERATOR: You can delete this thread since there are other on-going threads on this topic. Just looking at the latest Mark 7 video on YouTube and at the end of the video, it states Mark 7 is now a Lyman Products Company. Sounds like Lyman either heavily invested or now owns Mark 7. Am I reading this right?

Another great video on a lower disassembly and re-assembly

Cleaned a 5 gallon bucket of 9mm brass in my cement mixers and set up my new Mighty Armory 9mm sizing die.

Everglades Ammo Gallant Bullets (just started using these- like the 9mm 125 gr profile best of the coated bullets i have tried) Acme bullets Blue Bullets RMR Bullets I have used all of the above and all provide great bullets. some have discount codes if you do a subscription or search this forum for codes. EGA FMJs are close to lead bullet costs if you buy in bulk during black Friday or the holiday sales.

Are the case mouth flaring dimensions of the M-die and Redding the same? I have the M-die, but I really need to flare the case mouth quite a bit to not shave Acme 124 grain bullets. Wondering if the Redding die was better for coated lead bullets.

For around $400 bucks you could buy 6k of processed 223 brass and just re-use it..

Always wanted to take a class of his... sorry to hear of his passing.

Everglades Ammo 124 gr FMJ.. RMR 124/125 FMJ's work well as well. HP38/W231 4.3 grains COL 1.150 Primer of your choice (I use Winchester, Fiocchi, Federal) Shoots well and locks slide open on last round.

Lee works fine as do others, but just make sure you have extra decapping pins on hand. You will bend/break them at some point. In my experience, I have purchased $ more decapping pin replacements than the cost of a $40 dollar MA decapping die. Just my 2 cents. Whatever works best for you and your budget will be the best solution.

Loaded 15K of them. Love them. Only downside is they come in 150 packs and my primer tube only fits 100, so it takes a bit longer to fill my primer tubes since i have to "count" the # of primers I am filling in my tubes. My local shop sells them for $.026 / each. cant beat the price.

Buy a Mighty Armory decapping die.

W231 / HP 38. been using these for years.. Meters very well in any powder measure. Also used Winchester WSF. That also meters very well. Really, any ball based powder should flow/meter well. Stay away from the tube/rod shaped powders. Not sure there are many of those for pistol, but those tend to vary a bit in my experience.

Very nice setup.. thanks for the info.. I have found even the MA decapping die can let some stubborn primed cases by. Had several that the MA decapper just punched a hold thru and the primer stayed. With the resizer in station 3 and using the dillion swager, its very easy to feel when a primer has not been ejected. Just need to slow things down and bit and pay more attention.

Hey 1050er's, Ran into an issue where some 9mm cases made thru to the primer station and caused a few untended "boom" issues. Trying to find a more fool proof way to removing the spent primers from 9mm cases. I have Mighty Armory decaping die and was thinking about installing this in station 2 (rezine/decap station) and then taking the decapping rod out of my resizing die and installing it in the swager station to both resize and act as a backer die for 9mm cases. Not sure if this setup will be any more foolproof in removing spent primers, but wondered if any one else has tried something similar and had good or poor success or thought it made any sort of difference in their reloading. Thanks... Chris

Well.. it finally happened... Had 2 primer tubes go boom. more like a loud snap. A case made it to the primer station with the original primer still in. The first time around i just missed it. Didn't really notice any difference in how the press felt when I cycled the handle, but pop.. there she went with primer rod shooting up at the ceiling and leaving me a bit startled... The first time this happened when I bent my Lee under size die for 9mm the primer punch rod. I didn't have a spare, so I installed the Dillon decapping and sizing die. Was back up and running in no time and about 200 rounds later bang, pop. I blew the entire stack of primers and put a hole in the aluminum inner primer tube. Had to replace the plastic primer follower rod as well since that shot up and hit the ceiling. I replaced all the damaged parts ( the inner small primer tube that is inside the steel safety shield) and cleaned up the burnt primers and primer shuttle. Was back up and running in about 30 minutes. Was reloading again and at about 200 rounds later, another case with the primer still in, got into the primer station and blew the primer tube up again. I was now done.. no more spare parts.. The second time was on me as I kinda of felt something was not right, but was going too fast and pulled the handle even though the voice in my head was telling me something was off. Not sure if it was a batch of bad luck or had something to do with switching to the Dillon de-cap sizing die. The pops both happened using this die. I had loaded around 20K rounds using either a Hornady or Lee undersize 9mm decap and resizing die and I never had this occur. The Dillon die was set up correctly. I have replaced all the damaged parts and have gone back to my Lee undersize decap resizing die. Going a bit slower now and looking for the spent primer coming out of the resizing station. I have read that people have sanded or dulled the point of the Dillon decap pin to try and avoid the issue of primers popping back in or not being ejected. The pin on my die looks pretty blunt at the end, so i am not sure if this was the issue or something else. Anyway, reloading a bit more slowing now...

Jerry Miculek,

I don't think either code works on any of the "Bulk" items... atleast it did not for me.. Anyone know if there is also a code for the Acme Bulk bullets? Thanks.

Had my 650 for a few months now.. only put ~2K 223 rounds thru it, but have not had any functional issues other than some spilled powder for the powder funnel. What caliber are you reloading out of curiosity? At this point, I would talk to Dillon about getting a new 650 and chalk yours up to a lemon...

Another option that just about eliminates the "snap" is to put a dab of grease on to the indexing ball and grease the indents on the bottom of the shell plate. Runs smoothly and removes 95% of the noticeable snap.