Chris777

I have been using the Everglades Ammo 1050 primer hold down die and after some tweaking of the dies, have it working like a champ and have eliminated 99% of the high primers I was experiencing. I am not sure it can be beat for the price. http://www.evergladesammo.com/ega-hold-down-die.html Being a gadget guy as well, I just stumbled across the Level 10 1050 primer support die. It looks pretty interesting and well constructed. I like the spring action in this die compared to the EGA, but not sure how much of a difference, improvement or increase in safety in affords. https://lvl10i.com/collections/all-products/products/priming-system-support-die-for-super-1050 Curious to get some feedback from anyone using the Level 10 1050 primer support die.

http://www.thebluebullets.com/category-s/1912.htm I have been using 9mm BB for a while and now and usually just order by the case as needed. I see they offer a bullet subscription program now and was wondering if anyone has tried it and what they thought of it. The website gives a general overview of how the program works, providing discounts ranges, but no actual monthly breakdown of the pricing. Curious to learn more about it from people that have given it a shot. I know I can call them up and ask, but I am lazy and its easier to just post the question to group... Thanks...

Looks nice.. I have been using a spent 223 case. I cut the base off and the neck fits/jambs nicely in the primer hole.

@Bummy425 "just not sure I want to give up the swaging station" I don't think you need to give up the swaging station. Think the case bell expander die would provide enough resistance to the case to allow the swagger rod to remove the crimp.. Just a guess... but I will need to verify that if I move to this setup. This may be a good experiment day when its either raining or snowing out and I need to occupy myself for a few hours....

Hi everyone, Fairly new to the 1050 (8 months) and came across a new video from the Mark7 guys on reloading using a 1050. I found they way they setup their dies to be interesting. In the video link below a standard case mouth expanding die is used in station 2, replacing the OEM swage case holder rod setup. The reason for this is explained as making the belling of the case mouth easier for the Mr. Bullet Feeder case mouth expander and eliminating that popping sound that people often note when using a powder funnel case mouth expander. I saw this and thought why have I not thought of this before. Seems a better way to use this station and also allows the use of a Mr. Bullet feeder, plus a separate seating and crimp die. Going to try this setup this weekend to see how it works. Not sure how well known this hack is... but thought it would good to share.. Also the 27min video watching dual Mark7's running has some good drool factor...

For the matches that attract a lot of shooters (>50), has anyone tried doing a split day / afternoon squad shoot? Half the shooters start in the morning and finish by noon and the second round comes in and shoots in the afternoon. I know the burden on running this setup falls on the match directors, club volunteers and RO's, but this may be a way to increase the thru put and shorten the overall time it takes to run a match?

Fairly new with the 1050 (loaded ~8K rounds 9mm) but have never had a primer detonation... hope I did not just jinx myself. I have loaded more than 80K rounds on a hornady LNL AP and have never had a single primer detonation issue.. so hopefully it shows its a rather minimal occurrence and or I have not F'ed up too badly over the years.....:)

I picked up two of these and wish I had not. My M&P mags are a PIA to quickly extract out of the pouch. I have the tension screws as loose as they will go, but still the mags take some effort to pull out of the pouch. Not sure if they will loosen up over time or not. Looking at the Ghost 360 mags now... unless someone has tips on to get these mags to work more smoothly. edit: Sprayed some silicone into the mag pouch and problem is gone.. mags go go in and out pretty easily now....

This is what I do. I have 2 LNL AP's that pre-dated my 1050. My driving factor for moving to the 1050 was dealing with crimped 9mm range brass on the LNL. Total frustration and manually removing the crimp is a PIA. 1050 is awesome, but I did have issues at the start with primers dropping out the bottom, but all these issues are gone now. The LNL is still a good machine and I load 40 S&W, 45 ACP and 223 Rem. on them. If I start doing more 223 stuff, I may think about a conversion kit since for me the bigget selling point on the 1050 is the integrated primer swage station.

Very cool.. were the blue led's just a coincidence or did you pick them to match the dillon colors... Very slick install... looks better than factory.

Looks like they are using a Hornady case feeder. Not the highest quality item in my experience... hopefully they improved it...

Looks like the fellas over at Mark 7 just released their commercial version of a reloading platform. Looks like a mix of off the shelf items, a new press design and the Mark 7 software. Cant wait to learn / see more about this new press. Has anyone seen this new press up close or know more about it? http://www.markvii-loading.com/The-Mark-7-Revolution_p_332.html

It has helped me with high and inconsistent primer seating depths. Once I installed the die and got it tuned for the brass I was using, I can consistently seat my primers between 0.003 - 0.007 below the case face. I thinks its a good, cost effective addition to the press. Its not a must have, but if you don't have the die, you will need to spend a bunch of time to really tweak the shell plate lock down ring in order to take out the vertical play of the shell plate, while still allowing it to rotate freely. If you don't, you will have inconsistent primer seating depths. The die helps to remove any seating inconsistencies due to vertical play in the shell plate. For me, it just adds a higher level of consistency in my reloading.

I just picked up an EGA primer hold down die and have run about 2K rounds with it installed and have had zero issues with it. Hard to see how it could cause a primer detonation if properly set up but "sh...t" does happen at times. Curious to know/hear from any of you that have been using the EGA primer hold down die in their 1050's as to if they have ever experienced a primer detonation while using the die. If so, what happened and what was the damage, if any? I like the die and will continue to use it, but its always good to hear from others that have more experience using the die than I do at this point in time. thanks in advance.

Never run into this issue. call dillon... may need to ream out the primer hole, but see what Dillon says first...

thanks for all the tips.

On item that I came across in the 1050 manual has to do with the rocker set screw adjustment that controls the primer punch. On page 20 of the May 2007 version of the manual posted on the Dillon website states "The above photo shows the rocker arm set screw (#13226) being adjusted. The Super 1050 comes from the factory with this set screw properly adjusted, but over time it can move. When the rocker arm set screw is out of adjustment, it can dent primers and/or cause the primer slide to stick. " Maybe something else to test/talk to Dillon about

Have you tried different brands of primers?... does the issue occur in all brands?... sorry.. only thing I can come up with you have not mentioned.

HI RickT, I have a similar setup on my 1050. I have the Mr. BF expander in my Dillon powder measure, but was not getting the flair I wanted to prevent any chance of shaving off the poly coated lead bullets. I reload 9mm mainly and I decided to add a Hornady 40 S&W expander die after the powder station. The 40 expander add the perfect amount of bell to my 9mm cases and I have not had any issues with shaving off the coatings on my lead/poly coated bullets. If you have a 40 SW expander die, give it a shot.

I have the 1050 setup for 9mm, but no BF. I think 600-900 rounds an hour should be well within reach. I could go faster, but I find my arm starts to tire out from operating the machine much beyond 600 rounds. So you could get 1,000 rounds an hour or better if you have the endurance and not too many screw ups with the machine. My biggest headache is that 380 rounds work their way into my case feeder and will cause a primer feed issue or spilled powder which requires stopping and fixing/cleaning the machine. I don't think you need a bullet feeder unless you are loading more than 4k rounds a month (IMHO). I would love to have Mr. BF or other, but the $$ is just too much for me at this point.

I have 2 hornady LNL and a 1050. All are great machines. I added the 1050 for a few specific reasons. - Dedicated crimp removal / swage station. A good chunk of my 9mm range brass is crimped and manually removing the crimp is a PIA.... Would rather buy new ammo than waste my time working 9mm brass. The crimped brass was causing my LNL to crush primers and screw up my primer feed. - 1050 takes care of this - LNL always need some level of tweaking after 500 round. Need to clean the primer shuttle, retaining spring would get a crimp and need to be replaced... the case feeder sucks... would jam often or pile up the brass in the hopper funnel.. When the LNL works... its works well... but you will never get thru more than 500 rounds with out the need to tweak something.... with the 1050 I can run atleast 800 rounds an hour manually and with out a hiccup... Downside of a 1050 compared to LNL - Cost and time to change calibers... between 250 - 500 bucks depending on the change over setup (its not hard.. but costly) and the 1050 is pricy... you could buy a lot of ammo for $1750..... - Powder measure sucks compared to LNL - Just don't like the Dillon powder measure. Very difficult to get the level of precision and repeatability of pistol powder charges I have with the LNL powder funnel. LNL I can get +- 0.05 gr... Dillon can vary as much as +- 0.2 gr based on my experience with W231 - 1050 primers - there have been spells where the 1050 will dump primers when reloading... the plastic parts in the primer tube wear and will cause issues with priming brass.... Clearing a primer jam is more involved that doing so with the LNL... Overall I love the 1050 and would not go back to the LNL. Since I also have 2 LNL, I use these for my other calibers and dedicate the 1050 to 9mm which is the majority of what I shoot. If you can change the oil in your car, you have all the mechanical aptitude you need to run and maintain a 1050.

I do use a extra expander die when I am reloading lead or poly coated bullets. I am using a 1050 and when reloading 9mm I found it best to use a 40 S&W Hornday expander die after my powder fill station. By trial and error, I found that using the 40 S&W expander belled the case just a bit more gently than using the 9MM expander. This allows me to just widen the case mouth enough to seat the bullet without risk of shaving the lead or the poly/moly coated bullets without over over working the brass. I installed the case mouth expander after my powder station, then then seat the bullet by hand and run it thru the bullet seater and separate taper crimp dies. Works great! I don't use a separate expander die if I am reloading FMJ rounds and find the belling from the powder measure expander is sufficient.

Not sure.. but is sounds like it could be a loose connection that is giving power intermittently to the motor.... I'd give Dillon CS a call in the morning to see what they say.

Assume you were loading a pistol round.... You could weigh each round to find any that would have a double charge. I think you would be able to see this weight difference on a scale in spite of any differences in brass case weight. Start with a good known round. Weigh all 400 rounds and toss or pull any rounds that you suspect maybe high....

I have a FS M&P 9mm and use the standard small grip inserts. They are good, but I am looking for something a bit narrower on the sides to reduce the overall circumference of the pistol grip. Are there any aftermarket options for a super small or narrow M&P grip? Actually the gun feels great to me with out any grip insert on the gun. Ideally I'd like a grip insert that just fills the open spaces Wonder if anyone else has tried to do this already or has some ideas...