Chris777

That may work..will give it a try...

Recently got a new Tundra and am trying to figure out how to best set up the bed for transporting steel targets, ammo, range age, etc, to the range. Would ideally like to keep most of my range set up in the bed of the truck and would not be storing firearms other than transporting to the range. Have seen some nice sliding drawer options, but they are big bucks... also thinking about making my own version of a sliding bed drawer system. But thought I would see what ideas/suggestions the hive has.. Thanks in advance.

Thanks. this will be helpful in looking at 650's.

I maybe in the market for a 650 in the next few months. Was wondering if there have been any major or minor changes in the 650 over the past few years to be aware of as I look at new and used options? Does anyone have a list of changes or site where I could see what / if anything has changed or improved on the 650 over the years? Also, if you want to sell your 650, dm me.. Thanks Chris

I just bought the Magnum universal decapping die. Very nice, high quality die. The decapping pin is very sturdy and less likely to bend if a case is mis aligned and gets inserted into the die.

Maybe he means the tool heads? Those are aluminum...

I have shot the M&P, G34 and now Shadow 2. All are great choices. Have to say I got the S2 partly because of the hype, it's a great gun, but so are the others. I am going to make the S2 my USPSA production gun this year.. but I still come back to my M&P with Apex internals. All good, but the shooting fundamentals will make the biggest difference no matter the gun

I just finally bought the standard MBF for my 1050. Damn works like a charm. Finally caved after trying to get my $28 dollar Hornady bullet feeder (google it) to work on my 1050 with lead-coated bullets. Worked ok for FMH, but not for lead and the location of the case feeder on the 1050 requires smaller filler tubes to work with Hornady bullet feeder die. Anyway... $470 bucks later (still hurts spending that much on BF, but heck it works) all i can say is that it works great.. Save me time and frustration reloading and that is all that matters to me at this point. My only COMPLAINT with the MBF is that they should provide some sort of support or bracket to better support the flex spring. You need to play with the setup location on the collator to ensure it does not sag or bind up the bullet feeder die. For the price point of this product, this should have been better sorted out... or at provide a few different spring tube lengths to fit your setup... Other than that, it's a great product. Once you get over the high price point, you will be glad you have one...

Been trying to shoot and practice USPSA during the winter and coming spring season. I am looking for ideas/suggestions on a cold weather vest (not IDPA vest) that would make shooting in the cold a bit more tolerable. I have looked at the DAA Shotac Vest (https://www.doublealpha.biz/daa-shooting-vest) and it looks great.. except for the price... The vests I have seen at Cabella / REI, etc. are all too long and interfere with my gun belt and holster. Has anyone found a brand or type of vest that would not interfere with access to your holster and mags? (I suck a sowing so modifying a vest is not an option) Thanks Chris

Everglades ammo usually offers a 20% on MBF on or around black friday or cyber monday. Other than that.. fixed price no matter where you buy it.

Maybe the folks over at Mark 7 will build something similar. Seems they are going after the Dillon market.. I am pretty sure there has to be a better and maybe cheaper option than the RF 100

Went the PAL website. Looks like they are no longer manufacturing the PAL filler.... Guess I waited too long http://www.pal-filler.com/Pal_Filler/Home.html SOLD OUT WE INFORM YOU THAT PAL-FILLER WILL NO LONGER BE PRODUCED CUSTOMER SUPPORT REMAINS ACTIVE AT info@pal-filler.com THANK YOU ALL

Have been running a 1050 for a little over a year now. Great machine, but if the Evolution was an option back then, I would have bought it instead of the 1050. So many more features and improvements over the 1050 and an upgrade path for automating the system. I think Dillon has rested on the 1050 reputation for years as the only real player in the market and has failed to innovate or refine their presses. This press is going to cut into thier 1050 market big time IMO.

Every year whether they improve their products or not....

Mr. Bullet Feeder and a Mark 7..

If the barrel is stainless, you can use a 50/50 mixture of Hydrogen Peroxide and White Vinegar. Wear gloves. this will also dissolve any lead in the barrel and make is soluble enough to be absorbed thru the skin. Leave the barrel in the mixture for 20 minutes. Then run a bore brush and patch thru the barrel. Should be as clean as the day it was made.

I run the EGW undersize die.. think its the same as the Lee. I do spray all my 9mm brass with a Hornady or Liquid Wrench dry spray lube before running the brass. It makes everything sooo much easier and smoother to operate. With the undersize die, you are best lubing the cases. I run a size/de-crimp in station 1, hornady 9mm case mouth expander in station 2 instead of the dillon backer rod die, then after the powder die, I have setup the hornady bullet feeder die, then seating die and finish off with the dillon taper crimp die. Works great. I also have the Everglades ammo primer hold down die. I recommend that if you are running mixed brass. The EGA primer hold down takes 10 minutes to setup, but i found I got better results with mixed brass after removing the dillon swage rod die and installing a normal case mouth expansion die. With mixed brass, if you want remove primer crimp, the dillon backer rod does not have enough play to account for varying mixed brass dimension and resulted in the press not consistently seating primers to the depth I wanted.

The only other thing to consider is that Mark7 is offering $650 trade in for a 1050 with an autodrive..... Its only a few more $$$....

LOL.. The Urban Gray in my parts was $100 more than the black... chalk it up to supply and demand and the fact that CZ's are not that common up in the North East.. atleast what I have seen...

Just picked up an Urban Grey Shadow 2. Thinking about swapping out the factory black grips for either LOK or VZ grips. Never been much for color coordination, but since this is my first non-black gun, any suggestions on what color grips may look good or enhance the urban grey shadow 2 with out looking foolish? Don't want to be "that guy" at the range...

I have not. I saw them on the CZ customer website and they do look to be thinner than the stock Shadow 2's. They are pricey though.. Think I will give the stock grips a try for a while and see if I can adjust. If not, those grips will go on my Santa list.

OK.. thanks. too late on the SPO1... Shadow 2 came home with me . May end up trying the LOK thin grips to see if there is a difference in feel.

4.2 - 4.4 W231 with a 124/125 FMJ or plated bullet

Hi... Just picked up a new Shadow 2 this weekend. Great gun, but the width of the grips is just a bit too big for my hands. All the aftermarket grips (LOK, VZ) options are as thick or slightly thicker than the stock Shadow 2 aluminum grips. Does anyone know if a narrow grip (smaller than stock) option is available? Ideally looking for a similar feel to the Phantom and SPO1 have regarding the total width of the pistol grip/handle. Thanks in advance...

My DAA Premium competition belt has become a bit too bit.. I recently lost about 15 lbs and the overlap of my 38" belt now interferes with my holster location. Was thinking about cutting a few inches off the belt, but not sure if this is a wise thing to do or if it will lead to the nylon outer shell coming apart. Has anyone ever trimmed or cut down a DAA belt or should I just pony up and buy a smaller size belt?