EkuJustice

As cheap as they are inwould just buy a spare and pitch the bent one

Some do some don't. As for adding weight it's stationary weight not reciprocating weight you wanna add

I got one to give it a try and have had good luck with it. Just trimmed the mag tube and added a tube to make it 12+1 and am running it as is without welding the lifter or doing the port I figured for the money, it was worth a shot

Just keep it cool and you will be fine

You can have it turned down but it isn't real cheap

I Square the upper up on every AR15 I build. For me it is worth it as its only a few min job and I have seen it make an improvement even on factory guns with accuracy. That is one thing that I see most people skip out on and just throw the barrel on. What I use is the brownells tool with valve lapping compound from my local auto store. On the trigger guard pin, make sure you brace the back side of the tab when installing the pin or you can snap it off. Also invest in some good roll pin punches and roll pin holders as they make it go much easier and nicer. You can get by without the roll pin holders with a third hand but they are worth buying. When installing the bolt catch pin either use a specialty tool for that or use a long pin punch and go carefully. also when installing that, cover the side in tape where the punch will be to prohibit any scratches especially if not using the specialty pin punch. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/receiver-tools/ar-15-m16-upper-receiver-lapping-tool-prod20220.aspx http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/dissassembly-tools/bolt-catch-pin-punch-prod26484.aspx?avs|Make_3=AR-15/M4

Never had one come off with a properly prepped and degreased red loctite. Acetone will pull all the grease off

If it were mine I would ask for a refund and not another gun as the level of "craftsmanship" has already been shown to the point I would always wonder about what corners etc were cut on the new gun

Ya the vast majority of them are not just loading a little hot etc but reloading errors and or shooter errors. Reloading errors are often using the wrong powder(more common when the same powder drop is used for all die sets over having a complete set), not paying attention and double charging a load(look how many people post pictures of a loading bench with a tv over it). it is also trying to just crank out rounds as fast as possible with a bullet and case feeder and not looking to verify the powder is where it should be by physically looking as you place the case. On shooter error, its often associated with a squib or other bad round and not realizing it and either racking the slide and pulling the trigger again or pounding on the slide to get the round to go into battery with one stuck etc. Actual guns blown up by a load that was worked up properly is rare i would say

Cerakote is a little tough to do at hole unless you have the proper equipment. For a rifle barrel or something that isn't a rub part brownells alumahyde II isn't bad stuff for a home job and the prep work dosent need as much stuff and is used from a rattle can. For a pistol it isn't great as it rubs more than cerakote by far but for something like a rifle barrel that's not a run Part it works decent and isn't pricy

I would try the tape, keep re epoxying them or just get over the OCD and run them loose like everyone else dones. Never hear a rattle if they are loaded. The non spacer in 9mm is soo hit or miss not worth the reliability given up to run it like that

I agree that is something that should have never left the shop on any gun let alone a "custom". If someone is paying that kind of cash for a gun they expect a custom that had the little details taken care of and not a blatant obvious mess up ignored hoping the Customer dosent notice. No one is perfect but if a mistake is made it should be fixed before it's sent out or people will wonder what else was done wrong

I would check what an FFL charges to ship as it's cheaper to ship USPS priority mail than it is to ship ups or fedex. As far as receiving from an individual legally a dealer can but I would ask first as many will only accept from a dealer an will not provide a copy of an FFL to an individual as that is only required for a dealer to dealer. An individual can go to the ATF ez check and ask them for their numbers to verify the license. It is probibally easier and cheaper to have an ffl ship it

Your GTG. That is considered flush and 2 no one is measuring the plug to verify how far it extends. The ones that really hang way down and the brass ones are what will get you bumped

Run 40 minor here for 3 gun as I have the limited guns that I run and see no reason to change or buy a new gun for 3 extra rounds in the mag. If needed a reload can be done somewhere. Just not worth the expense to me to try and justify buying a dedicated 3 gun 9mm when there isn't any real difference

Mine is a basic 10/22 that I gutted for the receiver trigger group and bolt. The stock and factory barrel I sold to get some money back. I added a tacsol upper, stock, and used volquartsen parts for he trigger and added an extended charging handle(boyd has a good stock for less $$) and you can usuay find non threaded tac sol barrels used for a good price. For the mags I use factory 10 rounders as they just flat out. Work and have less issues than the extended ones. The charging handle I got from on tactical and has 3 spring weights to tune it to the ammo better. For me the 10/22 is better than an ar based one

If you go sti I would say go go 40 and load minor for 3 gun as it's much more versatile if you shoot uspsa and want major. For factory division with 15 rounds there is not a difference in capacity between 9 and 40 and even in divisions with just a mag length the difference is 3 rounds and 40 minor shoots just as soft and flat as a 9mm. The capacity difference isn't really an issue

PF is declared and then checked to see if you meet the standard you declared. It is not 125-165 is minor and 165 to gun blowing up is major. If declared minor they make sure you are over 125. If so you made PF. Where the issue could come up going from minor to major is Ss. 40 can shoot major or minor in Ss and minor allows 10 rounds in the mag. How many stages could someone do that on before chrono if marked minor

http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/ALG_Defense_Quality_Mil_Spec_Trigger_QMS_p/alg-qms.htm http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JP_AR_15_REDUCED_POWER_SPRING_KIT_p/jp-jps3.5.htm http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JoeBob_s_Trigger_Adjuster_p/jb-triggeradjuster.htm QMS Trigger, cut the tail off the hammer to become a speed hammer. Add JP springs and a trigger adjuster screw to remove the pretravel and you have a pretty good trigger without spending a ton. For less, use the factory trigger and do the same thing and possibly a very light polish your not out a ton and its much better than stock

Lone wolf comps are junk

Mod is plenty of choke for the 16 YD line. On trap, as well as skeet the hold point is a big thing and can make them alot harder with a poor one or alot easier with a good hold point. Also do no try and aim and take forever when trying to get the perfect sight picture. On the rising targets a plain 870 will need to have the target covered up when its on the way up as its climbing and the field 870s are not ment to shoot high like one of the higher stock trap guns will Once it stats falling you need to lead it a little under the target.

Glockstore is not glock

When I ran one I used the taccom reliability kit and had no issues

I think it is worth the effort to install stuff as it's more solid than a CR speed. If you just wanna throw stuff on and set the belt in 5 min get the CR speed or if you have one belt and wanna change stuff over to shoot different divisions then get the CR speed as it's not an easy swap. If you wanna set it up once and leave it the double alpha is a much stiffer belt

If it's a long stage or a hot gun etc a weak hand glove works well for strong hand loading