EkuJustice

For the stand and shoot section, use clear see through plexiglass for the dividers between lanes. If the barrier wont stop a bullet, its nice to see what the idiot next to you is doing. As for rapid fire, that is a touchy one because don't allow it and you have shooters complaining allow it and every idiot out there trys it. The ones how limit it to every 2 seconds do it for a reason. Ever hear of the new shooter mozambique? That would be 2 to the target one to the celing especially when they try it with something like say a glock 27. It is on the same lines as drawing from a holster. I know your competition shooters are gonna wanna draw from a holster but if you allow it then expect to have someone with a hole in their leg, floor someone else. The only way to really have a chance is selectively allowing rapid fire and holsters but that opens up a whole different can of worms. Make sure there is someone monitoring the range who knows what they are doing and is actually moving around not just posted up checking people in. When lanes are assigned try and put the inexperienced shooters in kind of a cluster(not to hard to spot) as it makes them easier to watch. We get spoiled with the normal group that shoots the matches but the public stand and shoot ranges you have some real idiots show up with ZERO gun handeling experience and no clue what they are doing and that can get unsafe pretty fast. How many ranges have holes in the walls floors and celings just a few feet out from the lanes. Its always great when you shoot and pass through one and some idiot is trying to make his gun work and its pointed right to the side at the guy next to him as hes racking rounds out and the old man "monitoring" the range is sitting on a chair with zero clue whats going on. You need to make the rules to handle the stupidest person out there. No matter what you do you are going to have some people mad at your policy or have a range thats unsafe

The list after the match will be nice then you have an idea where your at and what range you should be in on the table. It also lets you have an idea of its worth sticking around for a few hours to grab something or if your better off just heading out early

Was there any registration open thursday evening or Friday morning or just the 11-5 thurs

Is it installed correctly as it should not be rotating if it is. That said, I dump the forward assist and use a EGW plug or just a non frorward assist upper for mine. No real need for it in this game. If the round dosent chamber im not pounding it in with the forward assist. I rack it and go

The 22/45 light is a good platform but it's not an open the box and wow it's great gun. For trigger a Volquartsen trigger and sear work wonders for the pull without buying the full kit. For the action that is often the pos LCI. Remove the LCI and install a tandemkross filler. For the mag issue a mark Ii bushing either tandemkross or Volquartsen removes the mag safety and the mags drop free. Also make sure and clean and lube the gun well when you get it

The bullets work as I I am running the 115s in mine and have been for a while. The 135s wouldn't be great as they are almost too heavy to get enough powder to work well. After shooting a ton of them my comp is a little dirtier but it cleans up easy

There is no size limit for uspsa limited.

Best fix is standard guiderod and 8-9 pound spring

I have used it during the powder scare and it was what I could find. It worked but was loud and was not like other powders that you could keep pushing and getting more speed. It goes up then peaks and then story's coming back down so it's a fine window where you get the max out of it and it looses velocity. That windo is usually just above major PF like 166-167 of for me. It was ok and I used it for locals but I wouldn't trust it for a major match

Mine are all 20 rounds with grams followers and springs and Dawson base pads

Ya SNL is sometimes not legal. Some fit some dont. Like was said take space off he back of the feed lips to fit and it doset take much. My 40 cal mags all have the std non SNL and get a load able 20 in all them and no issues with the gauge. You lucked out at that one that you didn't get the open bump

I would just go 28 and you can always remove the extra ones. An advantage I like is being it has the elastic it's not hard to move it around if you want it out of the the way to go prone or if you wanna move it around a little to get the shells out easier on the far side. It holds the shells very secure and it is much cheaper per shell than the others out there. Like has been said I have seen fewer and fewer as the quad load seems to be what everyone pushes. I keep the load 2 because for me it's plenty fast and i can load it proficiently in match conditions and really have no desire shoving shells in a gun for hours on end to try and shave a second off an 8 shell load. I also don't like or want a bunch of stuff hanging off a belt that I then need connectors for so I can swap it all out and end up with several hundred bucks in a belt.

The arched MSH Definately makes the 1911 point more like a glock

I have one for a 35 that I use for 3 gun and like it. It is basically a 40minor gun. For me it was a prize table pickup which is why I have it in there and just bought a frame for it. If I wouldn't have won it I wouldn't have spent the money on it

The reason for the heavy loads is to spin it in one shot vs 2 or more likely 3 shots with a normal load. It's one you shove in the gun when needed for that specific target.

The big things in 9mm weight are the guiderod, magwell/MSH and grips. For a magwell your actually better going with the bigger Dawson one vs a solid steel lower profile one like the SA. That said you can't have heavy everywhere. If you want a steel full length guiderod you need to loose it from the back of the gun shock means no steel MSH and possibly lighter grips. If you want the steel MSH your gonna need a GI guiderod or an aluminum one. For grips If you go VZ you may need to loose weight on the grips on the underside but that usually depends on how much weight they left on the pistol frame at the cutout in the side of the grip. The bigges thing is you can have full length guiderod or steel MSH so pick one

Haven't seen many shot up for 50s

For a true round of skeet it's not really an option. It's the first miss or the low 8. As for the heavy/light gun it depends on how you shoot. The guys doing more swing through or pull ahead especially if swinging with the arms tend to like the lighter guns as they can move them easier. I shot a heavy gun but I was a total lower body shooter do my upper body was locked solid and didn't move so a heavy gun with sustained lead worked great. Still got the hat for my first 25 ever. Came close several times but never did get the hat shot for the big one

Not enough retention for me for 3 gun. I have just seen too many pistols end up on the ground that started out in a holster that's made or setup to try and shave a quarter second off the draw. That's anything from a real low cut holster like an Ice or a kydex " pouch" run super loose for a "smooth draw". The draw isn't that important in 3 gun to the point shaving tiny bits of draw time is worth potentially loosing the gun. If you insist on running in I would crank the screws way down if there is any kind if odd start position or if your using a sling or doing a decent run or getting on or off stuff. Been running retention here since before they were cool as I want the gun to stay where I put it without concern or doing the common one hand run with the hand on the pistol as you run. It's all risk vs reward for me not risking a dq for a dropped gun to save .25 sec on a draw in 3 gun. If it's worth it to you more power to you

In all honesty you won't find one. To lock the slide back Reliably stay with the factory followers. The miiimalist followers are designed for capacity and serve a different purpose. They can be set to lock back but not well as there is a fine line between locking back and locking back with 1 round left and not locking back at all. They just don't work very well for that thing is dependent on the spring as well so it may work for a bit then start either not locking back or locking back early. If you want max capacity look at the grams or TTI but your gonna need to give up locking back. If you need lockback your only real option is the factory ones.

Use a clamshell here as I am using just standard uppers so they fit. Unless your gonna go billet or one of the non standard ones a clamshell works great. If your using different look at the magpul one. One thing I do on all mine is square the receiver and lap it for a good fit on the barrel. The tool isn't expensive and it's worth doing.

The Aimpoint is nice if it works for you and has been around for a while. The red dots just don't work well for my eyes as I have a slight astigmatism so I need prescription glasses to use a dot but can't shoot irons with the prescriptions so it's one or the other. I like the vortex spitfire or the burris 1x which are both etched reticle a that illuminate so if batteries die you still have the reticle and it's very clear with no distortion at all

I use a combo of big stick and 140. I use the 140s on the classifiers exclusively and prefer to load to them than the big stick. I will occasionally load to the big stick if it makes since such as 2-3 close targets then movement and the rest of the shots are all right there where you can stay on the trigger the whole time. I usually will try a reload somewhere unless there is a good reason to do so. I there is plenty of space in do one I will reload vs trying to run the gun to empty just to do so. If it's a hose fest and I can stay on the trigger the whole time is when I will try it. My big stick is just as reliable as the 140s but not not all are. The ones I have seen issues are the ones who push the limit past where they should and the springs are what don't always hold up very long when it's pushed like that kinda like the 22 round 40 cal mags in 140 they work but gotta keep on them.

Ya hear that a lot about open and it not being as challenging as the other divisions as you "don't have to stage plan in open". Open Definately requires stage planning it is just different than production ss etc. In those you are trying to group them in the best groups possible for your 8-10 round limits. In open it's more how to eliminate as many as you can and group them more to eliminate as much wasted movement etc as you can. Open is very focused on mechanics and the non shooting part of the game. A dot will help your irons game because stuff that you miss with an iron gun becomes clear with a dot Bad grip etc show pretty big with a dot

No problem the RO didn't have an idea how to rule it and one of the other shooters who was an RO but not ROing the match was the one screaming how many procedurals I should get, mikes, fte etc. Had to show clear twice as the RO was distracted. By the yelling. Had the rule book already pulled and marked as i knew there would be some complaining arguments about it. I had joked about it before I shot it and he got upset then so challenge accepted lol. Does it help often to go over the wall. No not at all it's really rare but in that case it was an easy shot and saved a lot of movement so it was worth it. The MDs have used several extra targets a match to try and stop the gaming and most of them are wasted because it is not something that's gonna benefit ya really. If I am shooting something like that that's totally out there or odd it has to have a pretty good advantage to do so for it to be worth it to me