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xagent

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  1. Did you ever find a place to ream out your PCC barrel?  I'm in culpeper, va.

    1. jrswanson1

      jrswanson1

      No I did not.  I'm going to have to bug a gunsmith friend of mine to do this, since I need it done on five guns now.

  2. I have one of the PCC PSA short chamber barrels.  Did you find somebody to ream it out?  I'm in Culpeper, VA

    1. JRM83

      JRM83

      Beven Grams at Grams Engineering did mine. No loss in accuracy and ate everything I threw into it.

  3. xagent

    Hi I have one of the PCC PSA short chamber barrels.  Did you do your own reaming or had somebody do it?  I'm from Culpeper, VA.

    1. Mig

      Mig

      Sharpshooters in Lorton, VA opened up the throat on the barrel, took about 2mins. while I waited, ask for the manager Tim B.  Think the chamber/throat cutter tool is about $60-$80, if you wanted to buy one.

    2. xagent

      xagent

      Cool, what did that run?

       

    3. Mig

      Mig

      Don't remember

  4. I use Federal and CCI, had problems with both.
  5. I polished my PSA stock trigger and put in the JP yellow springs. It felt pretty good but I was getting about 1 in 10 light strikes. I put in the original springs and no problems except for the weight. The HF 24c is nice but a bit pricey for me at this time. What about their EDT,2,3 or something else? Any recommendations?
  6. I put six in the tube, couldn't tell a difference.
  7. Seems like I should at least get a titanium firing pin, and maybe the Taccom buffer? I'd hate to have a slam fire.
  8. I have a Stag arms upper with a 18" barrel, rifle length gas tube, good compensator, JP adjustable gas block, carbine buffer, and JP buffer spring. When I put the new light weight steel BCG in it and adjust the gas block will I need to change out the buffer and maybe add a titanium firing pin? Does anybody have a similar setup and have any suggestions for reliability in 3-gun.
  9. I have a steel light wight BCG on the way. I have a 18" stag arms rifle length gas system, JP adjustable gas block, decent muzzle brake, standard carbine buffer with a JP spring in the tube. I'm concerned that after adjusting the gas block that I will have to change the buffer and maybe a titanium firing pin for reliability. Does anybody have a similar setup and have any recommendations for me?
  10. I saw the other post and got some good ideas there. The last match I had some issues with a 300 yd plate. I couldn't really see it or see where the hits were landing. The spotter said I was just under but I couldn't see a thing. I think my issue is the magnification since I'm getting older.
  11. I have been shooting a MTAC 1x4 for a couple of seasons and I have been having problems seeing the long distance targets 200-500 lately. I've been considering getting more magnification to help out. I already have a Burris FFIII that I can mount at a 45 for up close stuff. I'm looking at the Burris 2-7x32 fullfield E1 1" tube or a Nikon Prostaff 7 2.5x10x44 30mm tube. I can use my current 30mm mount for the Nikon but will have to get another 1" mount for the Burris. At the end of the day the price will work out the same or close. I like the size and weight on the Burris but have some reservations about the 7x power top end out to 500 yards. I like the the idea of the 10x top end but the scope is going to be heavier, the rifle is already getting heavy as it is. I not sure if I want to wrestle with an even heavier gun by going with the 10x. I could use some opinions especially if anybody has used these scopes. It would be idea if I could try them both on my rifle and decide but there isn't a lot of open gunners around here using bigger optics.
  12. Lots of good ideas, to follow up a bit I shoot 2 different match locations one has long range out to 500 yards the other is 100 max. I took a closer look at my gas block and was not really happy with the Stag Arms build. The non-adjustable block I have has two bottom screws for a dimpled barrel in which the barrel is not dimpled. It also has two additional screws on the sides. None of the screws were locktited in place and all of them were not very tight to barely still in there. This might help to explain some of the carbon buildup on the barrel where it contacts the block in one area. I just decided to spend the money and get a JP adjustable clamp on type. I think this might just help me out since I don't want to mess with the old block and give me the option to adjust the rifles gas. Thanks for all the help.
  13. I use a Stag 3g model with 18" barrel, rifle length gas system, non-adjustable gas block, standard bolt group and buffer, with a DPMS Miculek brake strictly for 3-gun. I wanted to see if I can get the rifle to shoot a bit smoother, softer and flatter. The person at Stag arms said that I wouldn't see much of an improvement and they never tested the rifle with an adj. gas block when the designed it. Is it worth the money for me to put on one and tune it? Would I even notice a difference? Thanks for any opinions.
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