EkuJustice

If you want non toxic Give the skip 2000 elw a look. It's a non toxic non hazardous lube that works great in the cold. It dosent need any specific prep work or any specific application method. Just use it like you normally would use a regular gun oil. The frog lube will cause issues when cold on a tightly fit gun. For something like a factory glock it may not matter as it's loosely fit and can really be run bone dry. There really is no magic lube

What about a planned shot that is set off the split second the mag locks in and hits the berm. We had a stage about 3 years back where it was a group of targets in a row where a reload was required after the first shot and before the last shot. If you had a limited/open gun you could run the whole run in one mag, and do the reload and fire one to not get your procedures and save time by not having to re-index on a target. If done fast with the gun low when seating the mag it looks like the gun was fired when reloading but when you unload and show clear it has a chambered round which shows the mag was seated. The alignment an use of sights is not required

There really isn't any time needed to bring on online as you can add the trigger and new sights at home pretty darn quick. Buy the gun and a trigger and sights and you can have the whole thing done in under 30 min

I'm gonna agree with Gary it has specific examples of what is considered an AD. That is one thing thing that I have seen incorrectly called a lot as people generally call an AD any time you set one off when you don't intend to which would include breaking the shot early when moving the gun to a target etc when in fact it did not meet the definition of a AD in the rule book. It's the same as the reload there is a definition of what's considered a reload and when it's complete and in does not mention sights on the target.

Ya I run a Gcode here. Cheaper than bladetech and I think it works better too. My favorite is the safariland ALS but it wasn't made for the 6in 2011

I have even made a light weight one by swapping plastic spacers/wooden spacer for the metal ones to the weight I want. For me it was a lot cheaper to do that to the A2 I had than app a JP

IDPA you have alot less choices. Bladetech with the fixed stingray belt look is a good choice

good idea. I wouldnt mind one at the range to keep brass from flying but wouldnt use one in a competition

All mine are 20+1 with grams followers and springs and Dawson +1 base pads(non SNL) fit the gauge with no filing which is why i didn't want the SNL. With the factory base pad and the grams spring and follower I was getting 19 rounds. In 9mm it's 23 with the same Dawson base pad and grams followers andsprings, 22 with the grams spring and follower and factory base pad and 21 for the factory. None of my tubes are tuned

Shooting 9mm here. I just hate having to pickup my brass every stage and 38 super brass is a lot harder to get and a lot pricier. 9mm I can pick some up from the last stage or so at the match if at all or even just work a GSSF match etc and get plenty. If I do need to buy it is cheap to do so.

Stage design can effect it a lot. A stage with several ways to shoot where tor limited or open guy can post up and shoot a better plan eliminate positions and has longer harder shots leans more toward to open shooter. If it's all closer targets wide open shoot 8 through a port and only 8 avaliable then move a fair distance to another port and do it again it cuts that capacity benefit way down

There really is no trick other than just practice your draw. On the verticle vs 90 degree it's whatever your use to. For me I am running a verticle and have zero issues switching between open and irons. I am even fine switching from an open 2011 to an open glock as a backup as well as a ruger mark ii for steel. Usually they say the 90 degree is the easiest at first but practice drawing and it will come. It really dosent have to even be draws as much as indexing the gun

The only way a factory gun makes sence is if it's exactly what you want. Once you start modifying it and disassembling the upper is it really a factory gun anymore? I don't think for what we do with them that a built gun is worth less than a factory gun provided quality parts were used in it. For the average joe on the street they tend to want to buy a factory gun as it's usually a cheap gun they are getting and would trust a factory build over someone's "budget build" they threw together with the cheapest stuff possible. There are very few factory guns that we run right out of the box in this sport

For open go 17 or maybe 34 at the longest. The 17 is the most common length The sjc 11 works well and is a major only comp and is about the right size on a 17

For me I want the brass cheap IF I buy it. I would rather get just the brass basically right off the range for less money than to pay more for brass that's cleaned etc and ready to reload. I know some want it fully done but I don't mind tumbling or even sorting for cheap brass.

A 6 inch barrel with a 11port sjc comp would be incredibly long. Even a 34 with that comp is long and the 17l had another 3/4 inch

I will give KC credit as he at least shot his sponsors guns when he was at glock but it did hurt his game. He wasn't up there like he was with the 2011. Talent gets you to a point but with those if equal talent and ones shooting a better gun then it gives him the advantage. Glocks have advantages in the mags are cheap and you can swap as needed and they generally work and are a lower price point but a 2011 does the job better

Ar style aperture ghostring

At style aperture ghostring

Depends on what your After. If you want all Jp stuff then the JP. If you like the Midwest 2 handguard then build it. The Midwest and jp handguard will feel night and day difference in size and weight. For me, I would build as I get what I like not what's offered

I'm a fan of the 6 in provided the slide is lightened a fair amount. If you don't wanna lighten the slide go 5 inch. The 6 inch has an edge on the farther targets and smaller plates clubs are starting to use now but for me at least it seems to flop around more with a full weight slide. With a light slide it tracks well

I would go DI. The Anderson makes a good rifle and actually makes parts for other big name companies. The advantage I DI over piston is the parts all interchange in a DI where on piston gun it's more proprietary.

Usually run a 20 inch government profile barrel with a 15 inch Midwest Keymod handguard which is a light handguard and a barrel that isn't too bad becauSe it's like .650 under the handguard and .750 in front. For stuff that is basically a pistol match with a rifle I have used my sbr with a 10.5 inch light weight barrel and a comp and like it. The gun may not shoot quite as flat as the 20 but it still stays on target

I don't think it would help in every situation but it should be an option as some video shows the call was in correct regardless of the angle. There is a world shoot dq video out there for sweeping where you can clearly see the gun and the other arm which wasn't even close to sweeping. The RO wouldn't have had a good view from where he was standing and obviously called what he though happened based on what he could see. The video would have been 100 percent proof to anyone it was not sweeping and there was no angle issues etc. In an ideal world the ro would call what they saw but that isn't always the case. Do some people slide and get to shoot even though they should have been DQ yes they do and that's just part of it. That said a shooter should NEVER get a dq they did not earn. I know when I have the timer I do not DQ at 181 degrees because that 1 degree is gonna to close to be totally 100 percent sure on. The same would be true for a finger in the trigger guard on a full speed reload especially at the speed some people do it. Other ROs try and be soo strict that often it means they are less than 100 percent sure on the decision yet call it anyway. I don't think having the video option would really be used that much or verb for a lot of DQs where it may not show conclusive proof that the act occurred or didn't occure but if the video shows proof that the call is wrong then it should be used

I just like the convenience of 9mm. If I need brass, it can be bought easily and pretty cheap online if I wanna buy it. If not there is always sticking around after a local match and find a couple good spots and pick a ton up or even better get the brass from the GSSF match or 2 a year I work and set the tarp up. Would reather not have to worry about getting my brass back when shooting a match