MemphisMechanic

Only those imposed by a desire to be courteous to the rest of your squad. Nothing in the rule book. For the first stage, I may dryfire 3 or 4 extra draws while pulling the trigger on a couple of visible targets, and then perform a fullspeed reload - which also results in my starting mag winding up in the gun. Chamber a round and get set into position. Doesn’t take long. IMO the biggest help is not attacking the first stage; shoot it a little bit conservatively. It’s more important to not die on stage 1 than it is to push for a stage win.

At least you’re going Open in 3 gun. Open minor with a plastic gun is fine. They generally don’t hold up well to Major, no matter which brand of polymer wondergun you convert into an Open gun.

Also: for CZs and Tanfo guns with really light hammer springs, a flush primer is a high primer. I have my Dillon 1050 set to bury CCI primers .004” below flush. Winchesters are physically shorter and you can easily get them .005” to .007” deep in most brass. That is down IN there and almost anything will set them off. I believe you’re loading on a 650? There’s no adjustability when it comes to primer seating, but be aware flush is not good enough for really light springs. Come up a couple of pounds to a 13lb hammer spring and you’ll find you shoot the DA just as well in double action at the range when running USPSA type drills. It only matters in slowfire DA shooting and dryfire. But the gun will ignite anything including barely flush CCIs. Your buddies with striker guns and 1911 / 2011s will tell you flush is good and high means they’ll rock. Ignore those guys. Your gun hits much weaker than theirs. Bury those suckers.

Agreed. No reason at all to run the lighter stock spring IMO. The Wolff is so much heavier that it’s a pain to squeeze in there to install the pin, but that’s a good thing.

Intersting. I shot a Q5 Match and went back and forth between tall dot atop plate and irons. There’s a massive difference, and several days of dryfire are needed to get the presentation with the dot back, after you switch back to low irons for a couple weeks. I now have a PPQ milled to put the dot where the low factory irons lived, and presentation with my ironsight walthers is identical. It made a huge difference for me.

Just stop reading and order things from Patriot Defense. After they released all the internals that are out now... setting up a DA/SA gun is an entirely different and simpler ballgame.

I’d like to hear more on this.

I’ve got no experience with the Henning trigger. With a Titan hammer and a single piece sear, it should drop in with little to no fitting. Mine went in untouched and functioned perfectly.

To reduce pretravel install a BOLO disconnector. Along with the Xtreme extended firing pin block and the Titan hammer, that will cause the trigger to have nearly zero travel ahead of the reset point. There’s a 4-part Tanfoglio Tuning video series on YouTube I posted which shows precisely what to polish. I do not find a reduced power plunger spring of any kind to be helpful or needed. Their frequent causing of odd malfunctions led me to keep that stock and polish the hell out of it’s hole and rod instead. Same reduction in trigger pull with zero reliability concerns.

The 135 can be loaded longer than the RN. This is common amongst all bullet makers; TCs *often* have a more generous ogive. Don’t forget that you get more case volume even at the same OAL; it doesn’t sit a deeply into the case being a shorter bullet.

You should always be filming yourself on any technique change, doubly so if there’s no mirror around. Your old reloads were an ergonomic disaster and this is some serious low hanging fruit. You’ve stumbled on the hazards of dryfire: You’ve learned to reload really oddly, and you have burned in the habit of holding the gun like there’s no recoil to manage. (I did that too, and fixing my grip got me out of B class.) Your forearms should burn for a while from gripping hard after doing 5-10 minutes of dryfire.

To date, every single M classifier I’ve shot has had one Delta, or a fistful of Charlies. Shooting minor. In Production. When the A through GM hit factors come up above 8, you cannot afford to delay your shooting in order to shoot As. You have to go as fast as you can possibly shoot while staying in control, and rack up as many As as you can at that pace. Click this so it goes to the site. Zoom in on GM @TimH here, as he wears the best shirt ever:

You picked good parts. That thing’s going to run well.

Also (I know this post is old) but your shoulders move backward as the gun comes out. Don’t do that. Get your weight forward with the gun out in your natural shooting stance with weight agressively forward, and then put the gun in the holster using nothing but your arms. Draw it. Using nothing but your arms. Repeat forever. Head never moves, shoulders don’t go back or forward. Etc.

He still leans forward to get the weight where it needs to be, and bends his knees slightly. And that has to be learned. The big killer isn’t the fact that you wasted time or have a slow exit when you stand up in each position. The big one is that you also end up with an upright torso. You aren’t driving the gun, instead the recoil is driving you back... and you can’t transition as agressively with the narrow stance AND the locked, stiff legs.

You leaving a full turn of extra space past zero overtravel, correct? Too little overtravel is the #1 problem people run into with self-tuned tanfos. You will not notice an extra turn’s worth of overtravel when shooting. Promise. I tried overtravel removal in my G34, M&P, and Tanfo. Keep a full turn. Red loctite it there, don’t trust blue. (And hopefully someone will be along shortly with your setscrew size.)

10-15 or so of us will show up early in Memphis and set up stages. We all pay to shoot, and I’m only donating an hour or so. It’s worth it to get to shoot something interesting with options, and not have a new guy (or tired old one ) set up four ports with four targets. Yawn.

FYI, the gun will shoot a bit flatter when you strip weight from the slide, but the recoil will lose softness - it’ll feel snappier. How do I know? This gun is under 30oz, and the slide is 1oz lighter than factory WITH the dot accounted for. We took 3 ounces out of the slide. It’s really flat **if you grip hard** but soft loads feel like you’re firing factory ammo. The Shadow2 is heavy enough to mute most of that increase in sharpness, but it’ll be there a little bit. It’s worth it to have a really flat gun, though!

But I see guys running around ranges with the gunsmith’s name all over their shirts, and they are running one of these... I just have a boring steel barrel. I’ll never get chicks with this thing. I have to have it! I don’t care if I need it. The Jones’s have it (even if they recieved it for free) and I must keep up!

Lead and coated run fastest, plated is in the middle, and jacketed rounds are the slowest. The harder the projectile’s surface, the more gas blows past it before it fully “corks” the hole in your barrel. In simple terms. The difference in velocity and pressure is not that massive, but it’s worth knowing about. Oftentimes, a 9mm load will be *roughly* 0.2gr higher for FMJ than coated bullets to obtain the same velocity.

PMd you.

Yep. Some of us remember ya. Maybe you can bug @benos to see if he can get your old account back to you?

I’m not saying to change it, but also be aware you’re running the heaviest dot by a good margin. 1.95oz for the DPP. 1.1oz for the RTS2. I run the DPP - but my gun is polymer, so I can’t get it heavy enough.

My preferred testing method is the “doubles drill” at 10 or 15 yd. Drive it hard into your shoulder, lean heavily into the gun, and rip fast pairs off as quickly as you can at 10 to 15 yd. Take care to get the sight fully centered and the rifle still again between pairs. Do about 10 reps per target, and use one target with each different recoil spring or load that you’re testing. This really lets you see the trend in where your second round is going to land whenever you’re shooting as fast as you can work the trigger. (Equally important, of course, is how well that particular load shoots ar 25+ yards. So do both!)

Can’t claim the images as my own, but I do keep posting and referring to them because they’re so good. ”How long can I load ammo to fit in gun XYZ” is a topic that keeps coming up, and the only correct answer is “load some test rounds and find out.” These help novice reloaders understand why.