MemphisMechanic

I see a lot. Facts is facts. My gun has run for 1,500 - 2,000 rounds between funky issues cropping up. And a lot of PSA and other random middle-tier franken-builds will run for half a season or more, too. It’s not reliable by this game’s reckoning until it consistently goes well over 5,000 rounds without a single hiccup. That’s a high benchmark, and I see a lot of guys with claimed “reliable” guns who think nothing about racking a stovepipe or dud round out of the gun once or twice during a match. (5k+ does include cleaning and oiling as much as needed.)

You have to know what you’re doing when building a gun and even then, you’ll experiment with some parts and likely have a headache or two. A JP will run right out of the box. By the time you change a handguard and try a buffer weight or two, you’ll be deep into the JP gun compared to a built gun, too. If you think you can have an optimally set up PCC for under $1500 (which means doing the legwork on buffers, triggers, grips, stocks, handguards and ammo to match the gun to your shooting style) then you are kidding yourself. (Or pretending your PSA upper & BCG-equipped gun is reliable and competitive. ) Pay to play, whether you buy the pieces individually or buy a top-tier rifle where someone has done all of that work for you. (JP, MBX, Limcat, etc)

This is key. I’m a CMMG Guard shooter. I built a custom setup on colt mags with a QC10 lower first, and after $500+ in buffer systems and mag height tuning and such I just could not get it relaible. Colt mags suck to load and suck to seat unless downloaded dramatically. I’m on a KE Arms glock lower now because I’m a lefty and it has an ambi mag catch... but while it dramatically increased relaibility (made it three flawless matches) it recently cropped up with an ejection issue at the last match. I’m well over $3.5k into my project gun - which is fine. I expected it. But you will be well ahead to do one of two things: Buy a JP and swap handguard/grip/buffer system to meet your needs. Build on a QC10 upper and lower with the barrel of your choice, and all JP moving parts inside of it. (Note: this will likely wind up costing you more than the JP rifle up front.) Building winds up costing you more once you’ve bought and tried two handguards, three buffers, three recoil springs... These are two well-tested paths to success. The GUARD system isn’t massively popular and there just aren’t a lot of us tuning and troubleshooting it yet. JP and QC10 and Taccom and MBX and the other blowback systems have been done to death. Now back to the quote from TNRedneck: flatness matters. How hard it kicks does not. The guard isn’t slightly softer shooting than blowback. It is MASSIVELY SOFTER SHOOTING than blowback. Subjectively it’s about half the recoil when both guns are short-stroked and heavily sprung to make them shoot laser flat. But while it is neat? That offers no competitive advantage: all the guns are good and flat, and you shoot just as quickly and accurately with a JP as my Guard. At the end of the day, you’re a grown man shooting a handgun from your shoulder - even the higher recoiling guns are still just fine to control comfortably.

I mean someone will tell you that. I jusy vehemently disagree with them. The canik is 80% of the gun for 60% of the money, which is still a steal. And sorry. I sold all my Glocks long ago and don’t need any more. I’m sure you’d trade a $400 gun for a $700 one all day long!

@HCH I think among the factory guns you’ll find the Q5 to be the best gun. Holding a Canik it feels great and the trigger is nice. Two locals have shown up with them. ...but there’s an obvious reason the Q5 is priced a few hundred higher. Disclaimer: I have six Walthers, so I’m obviously a fan. The trigger is nicer and the slide stop, mag catch, and grip are very “Camry vs Lexus” when it comes to Q5 vs Canik. (I have a tuned Q5 I’d let go for a good price since I have a dedicated optics gun, but I haven’t gotten around to deciding to sell it in the classifieds yet!)

All this time I just thought you wrote really well for a 12 year old... https://instagram.com/maximusoutdoors?utm_source=ig_profile_share&igshid=za872vgctf1w

Buy an extended or “plus 10%” spring for the Walther (easier to find parts for) and see if it helps. If it does, buy more. And personally, I’d absolutely wrap some sandpaper around a length of 1x2 and try to open up the grip a few thousandths and/or remove any burrs it might happen to find.

@ClangClang correct. I grabbed an example of what many companies will do to your grip & backstrap. The forward part would not be legal. Nearly everything else is.

No. The frame is the gun that has to be on the production list. You can, however, have your existing frame modified with a grip reduction into whatever you like - and that is completely legal.

Hot pink AFTERMARKET titanium-anodized Ultra-Race-Oriented lightweight adjustable safeties, triggers, hammers? All of those have been legal since spring of ‘18, as long as you shoot the USA flavor and not IPSC. Catch up, man! You’ve been able to run an APEX trigger in any Production gun for about a year. Oh, carve your grip frame up to your heart’s content, too. Grind finger grooves off, or add them to something missing them.

I’d just count out 50 primers and weigh those. Then do the math with your total weight. Unless you want the exact number, that would be fast and probably get you in the ballpark.

$38.95 per classifier. Plush shipping and handling. (We’ll pretend I don’t have two 20-30% classifiers on record in PCC. I only shot four before switching back to handgun, and two were back when colt mags would not lock into the gun without a sledgehammer.)

You guys don’t know anything. I cut a colt mag down to an 8 rounder to minimize mass. The mag spring pops it out faster, and it doesn’t damage our expensive gravel flooring in the bays. That way I have the smallest possible mag for all those six reload six classifiers, but it still has two extra rounds just in case I have a dud round to rack out. You do have to seat it by pushing it up into the magwell with the handle of a teaspoon at Make Ready, but I carry one on my belt for this purpose. The reload is three colt mags welded together that sit in front of me below my gun, propped on a tripod. Eject mag, drop to a knee and drive the magwell onto the 82 rounder, and finish. I’m hundoing everything I shoot - I’ve actually made GM for myself and 3 locals who have paid me to shoot their classifiers for them. I should really sell these.

Factory on left, exaggerated adjustment on right. Yes. It does. The spring in the safety blade is nearly as strong as the trigger spring now. It’s easy to move the trigger back and pin the safety against the frame with any imperfect pull.

Tanfo. He refently switched to limcat for Lim & Open... but before Nationals he was shooting Tanfos in all divisions. I don’t know if he was running a 2011 in Open or Limited at Nationals, but it certainly wasn’t a CZ. Stoeger won production, with a Tanfo.

Red hill tactical holster body with a BOSS hanger from the ben stoeger pro shop. This is absolutely rock solid and amazingly high quality. Production legal, and you can set the ride height and cant to exactly what you desire. I have three of these rigs for each division I shoot, obviously all lefthanded.

And I agree with the others: the RO is in the perfect spot to call this and the camera is in the worst possible spot. The video couldn’t show us the difference in this case, so everyone is going to see what they want to see. Internet trolls will see you at 195.78. You will see your self *absolutely* maintaining about 175.

Next time you need to do this, go with the “dump, grab, and go.” Drop the mag and draw your fresh one. Put another 20 degrees or so of downrange twist in your wrist and crush the movement. Seat the mag as you begin to arrive at the window and your shoulders have begun to rotate downrange, square to the port. Doesn’t cost more than a tenth or two when I’ve run both ways on a timer, and is sometimes faster because you can move agressively. More importantly, you never get sent home. Your mind is free to focus on the muzzle’s index and the movement.

A factory striker spring and a 13 in an M&P is actually worse than this. But it runs. I like Walthers because I don’t have to jack with the striker springs in order to get a good trigger, so they detonate any primer a factory Glock will... which is EVERYTHING. In my mind guys get messed over by a high primer going CLICK a lot more often than they drop points because their trigger wasn’t 2/3 pound lighter. I left them heavy. It runs.

@echotango the “looseness” you show is normal for any striker gun with a 13lb recoil spring and a fullpower striker spring. I’ve been running my PPQs like that for years without issue, even though it’s a little alarming at first. If it worries you a lot, try a 15lb spring.

Avoid it if you ever travel to an IPSC match (no sight pictures are allowed, period.) Do it all you like at a USPSA match.

Long mag, beercan grip, keep the gun shouldered and barely rotate the magwell from firing position.

Another Coda user here. Extremely happy with it.

The short stroked gun will always be flatter if otherwise equal. That’s such a huge difference you can’t compare.

TTI used to sell a grandmaster connector. You would make GM shortly after installing it, without fail. That’s been off the market for several years now, so we have to practice these days, instead.