MemphisMechanic

You removed material from the top of the mag catch to let your Glock mags sit lower in the gun, correct? You lost me here. I assume you’re talking about the underside of the ejector on most guns when referring to a “mag stop” ? (You don’t mention which lower your’re using.)

NPD is correct, they’re Strike’s. Pure bling factor, no advantage otherwise. Yes. F%*# some Colt mags, the Guards should run on Glock mags if you want an easily reliable setup. I had to modify the Colt mags to sit lower in the QC10 lower, and had to modify the KE lower to get the Glock mags to sit low enough in that. The Guard needs a mag 1/8” to 1/4” lower than a blowback gun does.

I’m sure you did. A PCC is not a handgun, so don’t treat it like one. Load 140-145pf or so and it’ll shoot just as fast and flat as with the 130ish PF ammo, unlike a handgun where lower velocity poses a small advantage. Try it again with 3.5 to 3.8 TG.

Yes. No. In that order.

Try a set of Hennings. They’re by far the best fit and best machined grips out there. Use a rubber washer in there, too. A component that large retained by a single screw is idiocy, I’d like to have seen four. So I expect to have to torque them from time to time.

That’s because a lot of old guys switched to Welfare Open Minor to get to shoot something that works with aging eyes. More pairs of aging eyes in SS than Production.

Vortex dots aren’t as bright. The 2.5 deltapoint pro and the 2 in my Pcc’s Holosun 510C are just as easy to track as a 6 MOA Vortex because they flare like the sun. In Vortex, definitely go with the larger dot.

You’re crazy if you do anything other than show up at a match with your current Glock 19 and shoot for a couple of months. (Crazy like an idiot; most of us ran out and bought tons of the wrong gear before our first match. I did!) Grab four G17 mags, since most G19 guys have a few, right? And three cheap mag pouches. Bring 250-300 rounds of 9mm to the range and whatever decent gun belt and holster you currently have. Go shoot in Limited minor. Learn the sport. As soon as you ask guys about guns for ____ division, they’ll all offer to let you try theirs. We’re all gear nerds eager to share. If you decide to stay Glock and do wind up loving Limited, you’ll wind up with a tuned up Glock 35 with some weight added eventually. But don’t rush to make the purchases of a belt, pouches and holsters, gun, mags, extensions all right up front. Production or Carry Optics might very well turn out to be where you want to play. You’re about to hit a match up where all of the products you’ve only seen in catalogs will be there to see and feel in person. No one buys a car without test driving it, after all.

Adopt a mindset that it’s often better to shoot Charlies on the move, quick, than to slow your feet down (or post up) and get Alphas.

This. Additionally, some of our stage designers don’t stake them down - we seem to have pesky gnomes running around Monday through Friday stealing the stakes we used for the last match. They get replaced often, but still always seem to be in short supply. This, too. When my squad walks into the bay to begin walkthrough, it’s standard practice to walk behind the stage looking for hidden targets. I usually give the poppers a quick glance to make sure the frames look level, too, and adjust them if necessary. (Especially because our poppers are the much-maligned forward falling type.) If I were working a major, as a non-aashole kind of RO, I’d be checking/adjusting my steel targets between squads just as DNROI instructed match officials to do in that multibrief last year. That’s an important part of your job and it seems too many ROs at Level II+ had the mindset that “thou shalt not touch a popper adjustment until someome fails to drop it, and requests calibration.” Thus I’m not trying to gain some sort of advantage when tweaking a heavy popper at a local. Your squad is composed of their own timekeepers and ROs at locals, and that’s what I’d be doing for every shooter if I were a static RO working that bay. A centerpunched popper that doesn’t fall from a hit with 125.001 PF ammo with a wet and gritty hinge? That is a failure of the match officials to maintain the stage properly, regardless of what the rulebook says. I just wish more people had this mindset.

Well, the vast majority of guys in this Tanfoglio group took the overtravel screw out and threw it away.

Speaking generally? You‘ll go from 12.5 down to 7-8 with springs, depending how light hammer spring is. From 7-8 down to 5-6.0 pounds with polishing. The bolo is easy to fit. It just doesn’t do anything except shorten the single action pretravel. If you like that? That’s *great!* Enjoy it. But it isn’t necessary to win matches with a Tanfo. I know of at least 8 GMs who shred in the overalls with a Stock 2, and none of them run a bolo. The bolo doesn’t reduce your trigger pull in most guns. Sometimes a little, usually none. I have this attitude because I consider BOLO & Titan hammer to be the one upgrade to my Stock 3 that I wish I hadn’t done, and I’m not shy about admitting it. Like @JayTac556 I would have added some pretravel back into the bolo setup if I had kept the gun.

That is exactly what I am saying. Shortening the travel isn’t actually an advantage on match day. It just feels better on the workbench. Otherwise the guns with zero overtravel and zero pretravel would be winning matches due to the inherent advantage. They’re not. It doesn’t work that way.

The bolo doesn’t drop your pull weight. It shortens the trigger travel. Reduced pull weight comes from springs and polishing. You can get a Stock II down to 6.0-6.5 & 2.5-3.0 pretty consistently with all factory internals (including the two piece sear) with springs, a lot of patience, and a dremel. Guys were doing it for a full decade before shiny hammers and special disconnectors started appearing. Nationals and the World Shoot have been won a dozen times cumulatively with guns set up just like that. These guns don’t need a lot of work. We just like to tinker and tune them because we enjoy the challenge of seeing how far we can get things. Warning to the OP; CZ triggers are usually better than Tanfo ones with a similar amount of work invested. The much longer hammer spring has a lot to do with that. But +/- one pound of pull weight only matters when testing it on your workbench. A clean crisp 2.8lb single action and glass smooth 6.5lb DA will shoot just as fast and true as a 5/2 trigger does.

Weight removal: Patriot Defense lightweight guide rod. Lighter grip panels. SSI Scales, or one of the plastic options out there. There are several good threads on grip panels showing sizes and weights. Search for “tanfoglio tuning” on YouTube. I did a 4 part video series on teardown, polishing, and reassembly.

No. Run the factory firing pin. If you go back through the forum with the search I spent two full days testing every combination of spring and extended vs stock firing pin. The aftermarket pins launch a pencil slightly higher but show zero actual improvement in setting off brand X primer with brand Y firing pin. Run the stock one.

This. Install a single piece sear and otherwise focus on polishing INTENSIVELY and re-springing. No. The bolo deletes some pretravel which doesn’t really matter although it feels sexy... but it also causes your hammer to travel less before it falls in DA. There are ways to remedy this but it requires time and patience, and probably wrecking the first BOLO to see how far back you can get the hammer travel before you’ve removed too much material. The bolo is a solution to a nonexistent problem. There’s nothing wrong with a bit of pretravel, it doesn’t affect your shooting speed or accuracy.

@zzt @Supermoto 24 rounds before the optimal reload point, plus the desire to rip 2 to 3 makeup shots off if needed so you can really push speed? I don’t understand why you guys are talking like this kind of thing isn’t common. No I don’t shoot Open. But I try to design a lot of interesting stages, and watch how the hicap vs lowcap guys attack them...

You’re the same type of guy who keeps telling me I should *never* need to shoot my Production gun to 11. Yet I’ve won stages once or twice doing exactly that, when no one else considered doing it. I hold 23+1 in Carry Optics. Twice recently, I’ve shot the gun til the mag was empty, or down to 1 round, in order to reload in a more advantageous spot... while the guys with 20-22 in their mags were doing two reloads. Capacity matters. It’s sometimes a factor and advantage in being more agressive or creative in your stage planning.

Go shoot Open for a few matches with 24-25 rounds in your mags where they like tight partials, fast swingers, and distant steel plates. Then get back to me. You don’t always get to shoot 2 clusters of 4 targets, reload, and shoot 16 more shots. Some places have stages that actually push your capacity. If you want to win, you’re shooting on the move between arrays without pause til somewhere 24-28 rounds into the stage. Or loading early in the stage and doing so afterward. None of the guys going to Nats shoot a .40 Open gun. That ought to tell you something.

No one wants a 40S&W Open gun because they don’t want to have to do two reloads in quite a few of the field courses. Mag capacity is the reason everyone loads the skinny calibers - 9mm and 38somethingorother. If 9Major were legal in Limited, you’d see guys switching overnight for the extra 2 or 3 rounds there, too.

Noshoots jump in front of passing bullets. I thought everyone knew this. It isn’t your fault. Damn noshoots.

For your first half dozen matches do this: Shoot off your current best, stiffest tactical carry style belt. Use any outside the waistband holster. Bring three mag carriers on your weak hip. Bring 4 G17 mags so you have more than enough ammo: 17rds in the gun and 51 more (17x3) on your belt. Don’t buy anything else for at least 4 matches, because a year from now you won’t be using anything else that you buy when you’re new. Give yourself time to shoot a few other members guns - we all love showing our gear off - and learn about the sport. You might fall in love with Limited, in which case the purchase of a G17 or G34 is $500-650 down the drain. Production might be your passion. Or Open. Right now gear won’t matter. A Glock 19 is an accurate serviceable gun. Shoot it in carry optics and go just have fun. Anyone advising a new guy to go spend $$ on gear is steering you wrong, unless you only have a totally unserviceable gun. You don’t. Go shoot as is.

Thats the way to go. After a while you learn how badly they have to fail in order to actually be a potential problem, but definitely still use all of them as practice.

Everyone does make ready differently. For myself, on classifier stages: I’m in the box the moment the previous shooter steps out, running through the stage in my mind at least 3 times while targets are taped. At “make ready” I’ll treat it like a beep, execute the draw and dryfire across all the targets just as intensely as if I were shooting it for score, airgun a reload, and re-engage. (Or whatever that string involves, maybe you switch to weak hand, etc) Repeat it with an airgun where I seat the actual magazine so that one rep of a fullspeed reload is performed, continuing to dryfire the stage with an empty chamber. When finished? Rack it, presscheck it, holster the gun, confirm your reload magazine is fully loaded in the front pouch, and assume the start position. If you’re doing all of this fullspeed you should be able to be ready to go in 30 seconds quite comfortably. That’s entirely reasonable for a cold start on a classifier - especially if you’re the first shooter to the line. The number one mistake I see with classifiers among D through B class is guys not diligently memorizing the stage, because they feel it’s too simple to require that. Then you watch them shoot and they push the gun back out after the reload before remembering to switch it to their weakhand. Or they forget they’re moving to a new box and performthe reload flat-footed. Or they make up a Charlie on a virginia count stage. Etc.