MemphisMechanic

Watch a few videos on loads on youtube. A quick snap from Max Michel’s: No one really mentions it verbally, true. But the goal is to get the mag into the gun as quickly as possible. The shortest path between pouch and insertion is a straight line. Keep your gunhand forearm roughly straight and roll the gun in and back until the magwell points at whatever direction *your* straight maghand forearm wants to naturally present a magazine at. Ben Stoeger loads at “clap your hands position” and wins matches. Hwansik Kim loads really low and almost horizontal, and wins matches. Lots of guys load up higher. And win. Same with the grip, Eric Grauffel wraps trigger guard with index finger the way all other GMs will tell you not to, and wins everything. Vogel has his ultra high robot claw inward death grip. Seeklander focuses on getting your hands behind the gun. Ron Avery wanted to focus on hand gap and weak wrist cammed down. There are lots of ways that work with this stuff. (All those guys are National Champions.) Grip higher and harder with weakhand in whatever way works for your body. Load straighter and faster.

(1) Your recoil control needs huge work. Your weak hand sits still while the gun recoils into the strong hand only. GRIP HARD AS HELL with your left hand. Squeeze till your forearm burns the entire time. If you’re comfortable, you’re leaving time and points on the table. (2) Your reload angle hurts you hard. Both wrists should be straight as you insert the mag: muzzle in line with forearm, and weak hand pointer finger making a straight line down forearm, pointing the round right up into the magwell. This means you need to bring the gun back more and rotate it so that the magwell is pointing dieectly at your front mag pouch, speaking vaguely. Right now you’re making an ergonomically awkward twist at the wrist to stuff the mag in the gun. Presumably because someone told you reloading out where you shoot is faster? It isn’t, particularly if you lack a giant magwell. Watch all the top production shooters on Youtube. Ben Stoeger. Hwansik Kim. Alex Gutt. Jacob Heartherington. Etc. They load closer to chest, and there is a reason: consistency.

We have our Kindles pretty much permanently mounted in those, given our extremely sunny location and absolutely no shade in our bays. They work great and last a long time. Make it harder to misplace the tablet, too.

I haven’t heard of this one. At 19 that means the follower is not coming down into the extension. Try smacking the baspad really hard on a table at 18-19, seeing if things shift. That’s common for 2011 Limited shooters to do at first. I know at least 4 guys running the TTI & Grams P320 combo and we’ve all gotten 23 from the very first try.

Slide it down the barrel for ultimate compact storage. Also... to be frank, I’ve had exactly one squib in 12 years of reloading 50-100k rounds, and it was 50 rounds after installing my bulletfeeder while figuring things out. I haven’t had a squib rod of any kind in the 4,000 rounds I’ve shot PCC with. I am just now realizing I don’t have a squib rod long enough, as I read this, because it’s just not a factor. What are you doing reloadingwise that has you so squib-conscious? In the ultra-rare event that I have one on the road, I’m pretty sure I could round one up from a fellow shooter in an emergency.

Man, happy to help! I should probably do one for the Walther PPQs. They’re more complicated and more of a PITA to takedown, and polishing etc really do help them too. Maybe someday. Walthers are gonna get really popular this year.

If you are indeed working with the stock two-piece sear, you’re the only one left with one that I know of. Try a single piece sear.

A 10yd test is still definitive when the gun’s group sizes reduce by 300%.

@jessesmith121 brought up a good point. Draw to a 45 yard minipopper just as fast as you do when your target is in your face. Once it’s up, THEN you spend more time refining the sights and pressing the trigger. Anything else is wasted time.

the full version of what happened with a very realistic looking handgun makes the cop’s decision seem slightly more reasonable: I hadn’t heard of this one until now. Too bad the guy calling 911 told the operator three times the gun might be fake, and they never bothered to relay that information to the guys in the squad car.

Start here! All the old amazing links are broken, but the thread itself has a bit of good info. How much reloading experience do you have? If you are used to loading on the red press, you pretty much set the blue one up and run in the same way.

For reference on what is allowed on the underside of the gun? This is 100% positively certainly legal. I sent this image in to DNROI and Troy OK’d it very quickly and enthusiastically. Before is in the top right, modified Tanfoglio in the other two images:

Yes. As long as you don’t bend & flare the bottom of the grip outward to turn it into a magwell. You can throat the opening in the bottom of the frame to keep square edges from hanging magazines up, but you cannot heat & bend the grip outward. Avoid that. And avoid anything that could serve as a thumb rest. And do whatever you like.

@Ken6PPC and the hilarious part about most posts like this one (he’s the exception!) is that usually a guy posts this stuff up with a $25 pair of digital calipers as the measuring device. ...which usually say right on the box “margin of error +/- .002”

At some point in mid-2019 I am buying a mill. All bets are off when that happens as to what gets lightened and optic-cut.

You will kick yourself for not installing a MBF sooner.

You think @IHAVEGAS found data from a match with 3,000 C-class Limited shooters in attendance?

What I mean by choosing the simplest stage plan? Consider this ultra-basic stage... This is not to scale. Targets 4 and 5 are 10 yards further than the rest, and the front of the shooting box is twice as close to them as the windows in the walls are. Those are way back at the rear of the stage near the XX’s your toes will start upon. (This is what I mean by diagrams NOT revealing the information you need to make a stage plan! It looks short. The lazy course designer doesn’t even have the barrels drawn in that will keep you from seeing 123 and 678 when you’ve run downrange past the walls! ) The veteran Production shooters in your squad are going to shoot either: (1) 4 and 5 at the draw. 1 2 3 moving through the window. reload. 6 7 8. (2) 1 2 3. reload. 6 7 8. turn and shoot 4 5. What should a novice do? I would encourage you to: (1) draw before you move your feet, keep your muzzle strictly downrange, shoot 1 2 3. (2) Reload while walking to 2nd wall. Watching your muzzle angle particularly if you are a lefthanded shooter. (3) Shoot 6 7 8. Reload and move forward. (Don’t forget to keep your gun pointed downrange!) (4) Move to the front and shoot 4 & 5. That’s what I mean by sticking to the simplest stage plan. Expert shooters will take targets through tiny gaps and at extra-long distances to shave half a second of movement. A new shooter isn’t there to do that. Get as close to each target as you can so that you’ll hit the stupid thing, shoot slow and accurate, and have fun!! KISS. Keep it simple.

1. The stages always look different in person. What you plan now won’t carry out on match day. 2. Pick the simplest possible stage plan, even if it means knowing you are going to be 2 or 3 seconds slower, or perform an extra reload. (Whether novice or experienced Master shooter... If you aren’t positive you can execute the plan correctly 10 times out of 10, it is the wrong plan for you.) 3. Have at least 5 mags on your belt and one in the gun at the buzzer, in Production. 4. Ask the MD to squad you with other Production shooters and make sure he knows you are new. Then go find the other guys with 5 mags on their belt in your squad (easy way to ID production shooters) and tell them too. “I want to have fun and be safe, so please give me any pointers on these stages as we go.” Will never get turned away at a USPSA match. 90% of us are truly passionate about helping new shooters, and every squad has one or two jerks. Figure out who those guys are, and ask your questions to the others. <em><em></em></em>

Happy to hear those videos helped you and @JakeG. It took two evenings to make them happen - really rewarding each time I hear something like this.

You expect him to do his own 47 seconds worth of research? How ridiculous.

That will disqualify it from SSP legality, but not ESP.

It will probably help to stick to plated bullets or these FMJs if you want to load long in a short-chambered gun. They’re .355 - instead of .356 like most coated bullets - so the thinner diameter doesn’t interfere as far back in the chamber. Additionally, many of the FMJ profiles are pointier than their coated counterparts, so the shoulder (ogive) of the bullet is pretty far back. This is also helpful. (A great example of this is winchester white box. It’s around 1.160” long but chambers in any CZ because the 115gr bullet is extremely long and pointy and the ogive is almost back inside the brass.) Don’t discount 124s, either. I prefer the feel of a 135PF 124 to an equivalent 147 in a heavy metal gun like the S2 or a Tanfo, and I know several Ms and GMs who agree. The gun doesn’t feel sluggish - and those bullets can often be loaded longer IF you select the correct profile. Buy some small batches of both weights, and see what you think. THEN place your bulk order.

Round that corner off with a dremel and then wet-sand it back smooth. Legal in Production and Carry Optics these days.

Another important detail: How many have you built? I should have clarified my viewpoint: The odds of a guy doing his FIRST build without an experienced guy helping, and having it run? That’s what I’m referring to. Plenty of guys build a rifle and have it run: you’re probably a good example of this. So is the guy who has won both national championships to date. Max wasn’t running a factory gun in 17 or 18. This will be his first build. That guy always seems to come back after finishing it to post, and have the group resolve a few bugs in the system. In the best case.