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I am interested in putting a DK competition trigger in my gun. I have emailed them with questions several times in the last few weeks and have not gotten any response back. Is this normal for them? Any issues? If I can't get in touch with DK which other drop in triggers do you recommend? Thanks, Jeff

<This thread is under construction - it's just beginning, actually> I've quickly discovered that there is a LOT of good information on this forum pertaining to triggers and springs and dozens of other topics. Even moreso than for other brands... perhaps it's because these guns are still Unicorns to some extent. We only have each other to rely on to help set the gun up as best as possible. Unless I'm missing something, there isn't one centralized location on the forum to find all of the most important posts easily and quickly.So here goes... If you have a link to a vendor, youtube tutorial, or BEnos post which really helped you when building your gun, please post it in here so that I can add it! I'd really appreciate (and will fully credit) additions to the Tanfo bible. The Tanfoglio Bible Last updated June 09, 2016 VENDORS (list courtesy of Praetorian97's post here) Henning Walgren Ben Stoeger Pro Shop Jim Bodkin (Call - stocks items not on site) Last Round Armament (LRA) Numrich Hawktech Arm Eric Grauffel (France - International shipping) Springer Precision Patriot Defense GENERAL TECH Youtube tutorials: Tanfoglio Stock takedown video (total disassembly) Tanfoglio Stock reassembly video (total reassembly) BEnos forum discussions: Tanfoglio Glossary of Terms - read this if you're new! Small vs Large Frame differences Tanfo Chop Shop - Post your project guns here CZ SP-01 Shadow vs Tanfoglio Stock 2 How to extract a firing pin stuck through breechface FTF (Stock 3 wouldn't feed. Burr in firing pin hole on breechface) Henning Gen 4 vs Gen 5 firing pin Comparison of 5 common Tanfo firing pins GUNSMITHS (who won't butcher your Italian baby) Websites: Jim Bodkin (Shooter Ready) Jim Jones (J&L Gunsmithing) Richard Dettelhouser (Canyon Creek Custom - may not be accepting new work) BEnos forum discussions: Who works on Tanfo these days? IRON SIGHT DISCUSSIONS Stock 2 Front Sight height consensus .140 x .100 Dawson discussion GRIPS How do you keep your EGD grips tight? Thumb Groove in wood grips Sanding wood grips & applying grip tape Sanding & thumb groove in wood grips Grippiest option for Stock 2 RECOIL SPRINGS & TUNING Recoil spring for minor Recoil spring weight Stock 2 vs Limited Pro Recoil Spring Questions MAGAZINES (Basepads, springs, tuning, basepads/extensions) Stock 2/3 basepad comparison for Production - YouTube - Candice Juliano 20+ rounds of 40 in a tanfo - YouTube - Henning Walgren Henning's tech article - 40S&W Limited mags (video here) Henning's tech article - 38 super Open mags (video here) $22 9mm mags at Cheaper than Dirt Mags for Stock 2 DISASSEMBLY, REASSEMBLY & CLEANING Henning's tech videos - Limited frame - disassembly Henning's tech videos - Limited frame - assembly Henning's tech videos - Limited upper - cleaning Stock II hammer removal TRIGGER JOB & POLISHING Non BEnos-forum links: Smoothing the action - invaluable polishing guideBEnos forum discussions: Getting SA pull down (trigger job gold mine. Lots of combinations given by owners.) Sear Modification Guide KeelingAtlas's CZ tuning 101 (very similar to Tanfo's) Lightening Trigger pull & polishing internals Tanfoglio Stock II trigger work questions Rookie stock 2 trigger job EGD Light and medium hammer springs Fitting a T3 Disco Sear help on Stock 3 Tuning Stock II for reliability Extreme 'Titan' hammer Dual vs single wing interruptor (aka disconnector or "disco") My stock 2 trigger job DA 5 lb, SA <2lb Sear fitting and Titan hammer questions Just did a trigger job on first Lim Pro (breaks down changes in weight for each trigger mod) HOLSTERS & MAG POUCHES Which holster for Elite Limited? Preferred holster and thumb rest for Limited COM Holster for Stock III PRODUCTION DIVISION INFO Pimp my Stock III - Praetorian97s build thread It's official joined the cool kids club (Stock 2 internals discussion) Stock 2 Essentials Stock II dry fire questions OPEN SPECIFIC INFO (Comps, Optics, Mags, etc) Thinking about a Tanfoglio Open gun... school me Thinking about an Open Witness (Also, search for any and all posts by kneelingatlas) PHOTOS OF TANFOS Tanfoglio Porn (30 pages)

Subconscious trigger pull = the act of completing one trigger pull cycle with no conscious effort or deliberate pacing/cadence Have any of you effectively trained your body to execute a subconscious trigger pull when acceptable sight picture is attained? If so, what training methodology or process did you find most useful to improve subconscious trigger pull?

Just got a new M&P 9 CORE Performance Center Ported pistol for my birthday and I'm really disappointed in the trigger. I thought it would be lighter, it's 6+ lbs and yucky. What is the BEST way to improve that? The APEX kit? If so, which one? I eventually plan to compete with this pistol so do I want the competition version of the APEX trigger? Where is the cheapest place to order the APEX equipment from? Thanks in advance...

Hello All, New to the forum, not the sport. Life member and last competed 1998 (My son was born in Feb of 1999). It's thyme to play again!! I see looking at the rule book the USPSA has hired a wall of attorneys and a few thesauruses. Soooo, rather than hurt my very small brain I thought I'd reach out to those of you who made all the mistakes in advance. I will be shooting "Limited" (Not to be confused w/Limited 10). Is a "Open" holster (like the Safariland Model 014) acceptable? Does the trigger need to be completely covered on both side.. or even one side? Thanks in Advance, Doug DVC

I need a qualified person to install a flat STI trigger installed on my 2011. I am in the Libertyville area which is north of Chicago.

I installed the flat advanced Apex trigger on my p320 x5. It took it down 1 1.2 lbs. I also did some polishing which took it down another 1 1/2 lbs. You can def feel the difference. I bought an extra trigger bar spring and am going to fool around with it to see if I can lighten the trigger a little more. (I tried to post a pic but even after I resize, it still comes in at 3.23 mb and the site says max of .49MB) Anyone know how to remedy that mych of a size diff?

Is there any info on what the Polish on the shadow 2?

Hello everyone, I put a Ar10 Elftmann Match trigger in my Sig MPX (Gen 2) a few days ago. The first day when I tried to zero it, the trigger failed to reset a few times. I have it set at about 4lbs, and I followed the installation instructions carefully, so I don't think it's user error. I tried manipulating the trigger with the upper off so I could see what is happening. I found the hammer was getting caught on the disconnector. After cycling it a few times, the problem went away so I assumed it was just new and needed to be worked in. Now however, it's impossible to fire the MPX quickly. I tried firing 1 shot, quickly releasing the trigger and pulling it again as fast as possible. The trigger was dead on the 2nd pull as if I failed to reset it properly, however after waiting about 3 seconds with the trigger still pulled, the MPX fired. So I believe the hammer is still getting caught on the disconnector and if you wait long enough, it slips free. For some reason, it only happens when I'm trying to run the trigger fast. The fastest it's ever shot is a 0.17 split. If I run the trigger faster than that, the hammer is gets caught on the disconnector. If I run it slower, it works fine. There are Youtube videos where people file down the contact points, but I'm hesitant to do that. I'll call Elftmann tomorrow, but has anyone else had this problem? Suggestions? Thanks for the help! Kurt

This is a thread I started in a FB group but figured it would be better suited here. Looking forward to hear your experiences and feedback. I will update as i continue testing. So the other day Steven posted about "most" drop in triggers not working in PCC and asking if anyone has welded the bottom of their bcg to help with reset. Some people have and that has worked. I have been having issues with drop-in triggers in my PCC and wanted to get to the bottom of "why". I happen to own a PCC as well as an ar15 so I just finished up some measuring and I believe I have it figured out. -9mm is a QC10 upper and lower with a NFA standard BCG. Elftmann AR10 trigger -AR15 is a Radical Firearms upper, Spikes Tactical lower, with an Aero Precision BCG. CMC trigger ****side note**** while my CMC trigger functions flawlessly in my AR-15, when I just swapped the uppers, the CMC will not even reset when cycling the bolt manually in the ar9. 1. I used a razor blade as a bridge across the bottom of my upper. The razor blade measured .037 thick. 2. I first measured the 9mm from the razor blade down to the bottom of the BCG that resets the trigger. The measurement was .345 with the blade so .308 without the blade. 3. Next I did the same thing to the AR-15. The measurement was .300 with the blade so .263 without. That means the BCG on the AR-15 has .045 more material pushing down on the hammer and resetting the trigger. Someone in the last thread suggested welding the bottom of the BCG approximately .040 thick which would be ideal. Is that the answer to the drop-in trigger problem? The next thing would be which 9mm BCG measure similar to the AR-15 BCG? Am I going down the right path here to find a solution? I am curious to know what others think. The pic is to help show how i went about taking the measurement.

After years of putting up with a mediocre trigger in my Glocks, I have finally found what I consider the absolute best on the market today. After spending hundreds of dollars on the big name aftermarket triggers, I have come to my final resting spot. It's the Arsenal Democracy "Switch" trigger. It came with a tuned and highly polished trigger bar, connector, ejector block and striker safety plunger. I went ahead and swapped the springs that came with it with Wolff competition spring kit. It instantly turned the mushy trigger I had gotten used to into a trigger better than in most factory 1911's. I know what most of you are thinking and I would have thought the same thing if I weren't holding it in my own hand. It has zero take up and to say it had an 1/8" of creep would be exaggerating. Just enough to allow the safety to be functional. It breaks as clean as my 2011 with almost no over travel. You will have to shoot a couple of hundred rounds through it to get used to it, it breaks that clean. According to my trigger pull gauge, it was breaking right around 2.75#. I'm not going to bash anyone's product, but it made all the other big name triggers seem like a stock Glock trigger when comparing them. It was well worth the money and then some.

I fit an infinity trigger into my CK arms open pistol. With the slide off it works perfect. Nice loose trigger, no touch points. Hammer falls everytime and everything is great. The issue is when I put the slide back on. Once you rack the slide the hammer won't fall and you have manually release the sear. Is this a dimensional difference in the trigger bow from a CK arms to an infinity? Or is this a situation where I need to remove a little material from the tip of the disconnector to make sure it is as free as possible? Any suggestions would be great.

Got my CK 9mm major open gun, so the fun is begining. I have my Infinity med flat trigger insert and bow on the way. I had to modify my sti polymer grip quite a bit to fit it properly. This pistol is a steel grip. Has anyone fit this trigger into a CK metal frame? If so, how much filing did it take?

After probably 10k rounds through my S2 it is starting to develop an issue where the trigger will get kind of stuck in the rearward position on a double action pull. It's really only noticeable when dryfiring as the cycling of the slide will reset the trigger. The cycling of the slide seems to keep it from happening. I'm thinking maybe the disco is worn down or something similar. I want to fix this before it actually becomes a bigger issue and I'm hoping someone has already had this experience and knows a solution. Here are a list of parts that are in the gun. CGW T3 Disco 1 Piece Xtreme Sear 13# Wolf Spring

Got my CGW trigger kit in yesterday and spent the afternoon installing it. I also polished all of the interfaces in my SP-01. Don't have a trigger gauge but it is MUCH better! I will caution that if you do a kit, be careful when reassembling the sear cage. Those springs fly easy and are hard to find. I'll order a couple spares for the future. It was not as much of a hassle as I thought it might be. Easy instructions on this forum and on CZ Firearms forum. THIS was a great resource in disassembly and reassembly. 10x bushing waiting on my Dawson sights to get here.

First of all I would like to thank all of you here that have posted "TriggerTuning Tips". I have had some amazing results and i would like to share. I have a brand new, and so called, " Factory Hand Tuned", Small Frame Xtreme Stock 2 that had a brutal 9.5lb DA and a 4.5lb SA. Yuck! A major polish and off I go to PD and Henning for some parts. Thank you Joe & Henning for all your help! Bolo Interuptor (Drop In-Didn't touch a thing) Optimized Reduced Power : Sear Spring, Trigger Return Spring, Firing Pin Spring, & 12lb Hammer Spring Xtreme Sear (Touched up by Mr Joe himself) 10lb Recoil Spring Henning 19lb Trigger Plunger Spring Check this out...........4lb 5.6oz smooth travel DA and a crisp, clean breaking, 1lb 8.2oz SA with a short reset, and vitually no SA creep. SWEET! Needless to say, I am extremely happy with the outcome. With a little room on the DA/SA and wanting to bank a harder primer hit, I replaced the 12lb Hammer Spring with the 14lb spring. DA incresased to a respectable 5lb 3.5oz.and the SA to 1lb 14.2oz. Thanks again!

I have a 2011 edge chambered in .40 and have a trigger issue. The trigger will some times be very difficult to pull while a mag is in. I have tried a few different mags with the same result. With the mag well empty it is a very pleasant 2.5lb crisp trigger. I am tempted to buy one of those trigger bow stirrup die to check the bow but thought I would see if anyone has ever had this experience first. When I look into the mag well I can't see anything obvious. Also the mags drop free as is they are not hanging up on the bow.

I have a habit of wrapping my booger hook over the front of the trigger guard. I shoot decent, but I wonder if having my finger there makes me pull or push on certain shots. Has anyone had to break this habit and if so how long did it take, and was it just countless draw and dryfire practice or is there any other way? sorry if it has been covered before.

Hey all, How consistent are most peoples trigger pulls using digital trigger pull gauges? How many pulls do you take the average of to determine the "trigger pull weight" of a certain gun? I am getting +- in upwards of 4 ounces or so at times. Is this normal? Could this be the method I am using with the gauge? Could it be the lubrication of the gun? The trigger job itself? -Eli

Is it legal for production to change the trigger to shadow trigger or 75b combat trigger

Does anyone use the 85 combat trigger on cz p-01 ?

So I couldn't find ANY info on the internet on this topic, so I'm beginning a new thread. I own a CZ 75 Tactical Sport and do all my own gunsmithing. I've done a lot of work to my gun, all of it myself. I'll attach a list at the bottom of this page. As many of you probably know, through CZ USA and CZ Custom (http://czcustom.com/CZ75SAOTrigger.aspx), you can buy a flat-blade trigger for the Tactical Sport. Pretty cool, right? Well, for dudes like me with monster hands (and/or long fingers) that trigger sits so far back in the trigger guard that my trigger finger looks like a pirate hook to get the pad of my finger tip on the trigger for the perfect "press". It had a great feel, but I can't manipulate the trigger fast enough with my finger shaped like a booger-hook, so I went searching elsewhere for custom triggers for the TS, and the ONLY place to get them (someone correct me if I'm wrong but I scoured the interwebs looking) is on the CZ UB website. For those that don't know, the CZ corporation can be broken down into three divisions that sell stuff (in regards to competition pistols): CZ UB - (Uhersky Brod) - The CZ mothership in the Czech Republic, where all the cool but hard-to-find stuff comes from. (Like the Tactical Sport Orange) CZ USA - (Kansas, USA) - The CZ distributor for the US. They import from the CZ mothership, and sell much of what CZ UB sells, but not ALL of it (or it's hard to get). CZ Custom - (Arizona, USA) - The "Custom Shop" for CZ. They do business as "Ghost Products". This shop is run by Angus Hobdell, a Grand Master and team CZ shooter and know-it-all (in a very good way). They sell much of what CZ USA/UB sells, plus many products in-house that you can ONLY get there. I've navigated this maze for many months now as I built up my Tactical Sport. So with this topic of "what comes from where" covered, the rest of this will make more sense. CZ UB's online shop sells some really cool stuff, that is ONLY available through their online shop. This includes the custom triggers I'm going to discuss. So they make several different trigger "shoes" (just the trigger itself, that doesn't affect pull weight, etc.) that are apparently designed for different hand sizes and purposes. This is RAD. STI/SVI 2011's are about the only other pistols I know of that you can find triggers designed for different ergonomics. The problem is, you have to order them through the international CZ UB site, and shipping is expensive, and more importantly (for me) was how long it would take to get to me, would the trigger get through customs, etc. Well, I jumped through the hoops and bought one, and holy crap is it worth it. So with that said, here is a link to the shop where these can be found: http://www.shop-cz.com/sporting-parts-ipsc/c-1204/ Here's what they offer, all in a variety of colors: ^This is CZ UB's Straight Trigger. Slightly Different than the one CZ Custom sells. ^This is CZ UB's "Target" Trigger. Has slightly more curve than the factory Tactical Sport trigger. ^This is CZ UB's Aluminum Trigger that is identical in shape to the stock TS trigger, just aluminum rather than polymer. ^This is the "small hands" trigger. It moves the curve of the trigger very far back in the trigger guard, so it's easily reachable for small hands. ^This is the "large hands/long finger" trigger. It has a shape like the target trigger, but moved forward to INCREASE the reach to the trigger, so that the aformentioned "booger hook" isn't an issue, and someone with longer fingers can comfortably use the pad of the finger to manipulate the trigger... like you SHOULD be doing. At the current exchange rate, these come out to about $25! Totally a deal in my book, despite paying for added shipping costs. So I went through the purchase process to get the long finger trigger, and wanted to share my experience so if anyone else out there has considered the same thing but wasn't sure about it, they could at least use my experience to know if it's worth it. So here's what I did: I went to the site, and created an account (which you must do first). I then added the trigger to the cart, and began checking out like you would at any other online shop. I used Google to check what the total was going to come out to before I placed my order. I selected "Worldwide Express" shipping, that was about $50. Considering this is the ONLY place to get these, I was willing to pay this for the trigger. The checkout process asks for everything but payment info when you "confirm" your order. In total, it came in at about $80 shipped. I immediately got an email asking for payment info through a secure online payment site. I entered all the info and hit "confirm". Several hours later (I assumed when they opened up shop on the other side of the world) I got an email confirming everything, and offering a cheaper shipping option. I replied that I did want the express shipping (assuming it would still take weeks). I got a final confirmation email, including a DHL confirmation number. This was on Wednesday, October 7th. To my astonishment, the expensive shipping I paid for was VERY fast. The trigger was at my door on Monday, October 12th. It installed into the gun perfectly. Holy crap was it worth it. It acheived exactly what I was after. In my personal opinion, it was absolutely worth the $50 shipping cost on top of the relatively cheap $25 cost of the trigger. The ONLY thing I would have done different would be to throw a few more things in the shopping cart to get the most of my $50 shipping cost. There you have it. Whether you were aware of their custom triggers or not, or knew of them but weren't sure about ordering from an international online shop, it was painless and the result was great, especially if you consider biting the bullet for $50 shipping worth it to ensure your expensive pistol has the perfect trigger for you in it. Considering my CZ 75 Tactical Sport is worth well over $2,000 at this point, it did not seem too crazy to me to spend $80 on a trigger that "fits" me perfectly... especially since there is only one place to get it. I'll get some pics posted of the finished gun soon, but for now, here's a phone pic of the trigger after I got it out of the packaging.

Sorry ahead of time if this is in the wrong area. I've got a couple of questions. The first is what pull weight are most people running on their open/limited guns? In addition to that, what did you do to achieve your current pull weight? Right now, I'm averaging around 3 to 3.5 lbs. It's not bad, but if I can lighten it and still feel comfortable with it I'd like to. I've got an adjusted Nowlin sear spring, 15 lb mainspring, EGW hammer and C&S tactical match sear. I haven't touched the hammer/sear.

I recently installed a CGW competition hammer on my CZ P01 and everything worked fine for about 300 rounds. On my fourth outing with it the trigger got hard to pull a couple of times and then went dead. I can decock it and shoot one shot in DA, but the trigger is dead for the SA shot. I took it home and wiggled the trigger until it started working again and lubed it up just in case. This morning I took it back to the range and after about 8 shots it got hard to pull in SA and then went dead again. I brought it home and wiggled the trigger again and now it works in SA, but there is a delay before the hammer falls. Any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong in the install? Thanks for any help.

I recently had my gen 4 glock trigger crack right by the tip of the safety to the top of the trigger, rare but it happened so glock replaced the whole assembly within one day. Great customer service. Oddly though the housing which holds the ejector ( not the trigger or bar) has a number stamp on it which is a #2. Now my glock 22 has a #1 and my glock 35 has a #1 as well which kinda made me wonder if this is the right housing assembly? Any info would be greatly appreciated.