Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

vince

Classified
  • Content Count

    102
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About vince

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs

Profile Information

  • Real Name
    vince

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Or just buy a Hornady powder measure... just set it and forget it.
  2. Absolutely my friend. I`ve been reloading for MANY more decades than i care to talk about, so i`m more than happy to share information and also learn from others too! I always say, i might be really old, but i`m never to old to learn something new. Thats what makes this so much fun. I love to see what others find and come up with.
  3. Thank you for the detailed post. Yup, tried this on a few presses, didnt work out. Though certainly worth trying it before buying anything. The biggest issue i`ve seen, is the inconsistencies of hornady`s manufacturing. The tolerances are all over the place. Thats pretty much a given with any press, brand and color dosent matter. Most $zero to $1,000 presses are mass produced. When they make reloading presses, they are flying out the door faster than chickens lay eggs. There will always be little issues with them here and there. Luckily, there are some pretty smart reloaders out there that cant fix them and make them run really well. I`m happy that you found a solution that works, for you. As in you said, and i totally agree, everybody`s mileage will vary. That is 100% true! This fix of yours works for you, the orings worked out better for me. Tweaking the shell plate is always my first attempt. If that dosent work, it gets an oring. Will the shell plate tweak and/or oring fix every LNL AP out there, nope. Seen a couple along the way that anything that was tried, eventually went back to hornady and got replaced.
  4. I`ll tell ya buddy, i totally agree, that old Pro-Jector is STILL a wonderful press. That ole girl will be going to the grave with me. I`ve actually not used the primer feeder much anymore on the ole PJ. I resize/deprime, then the cases go to wet tumble. Then i prime the cases off the loader, its faster. I started doing this awhile back when i found i couldnt no longer get the small parts (primer arm return spring) from hornady any longer for the pro-jector presses. Last time i talked with the Hornady`s tech department, the guys told me they now have a new priming system available to update the old pro-jector presses. I`ve got the part number for it somewhere here. But its just as easy to call their tech line, they have the new primer system right on their computors. I agree, its time hornady got off the poo pot and did something new, something that would make a huge impact. And YES, a 6 station would be the ticket!!!!!! They seriously need to update BOTH their case feeding system and the bullet feeding system. That design has been run into the ground in my opinion. I make them all work good, and i have zero issues, but i know that you an i agree that ALL of it is l-o-n-g overdue and surely out dated. I do like the design of their 3-die swager for the LNL AP, it works 100%. But there again, the swager does wear, and it will eventually need replacing. I havent worn one out yet, as they still work, but i can tell that i`ll have to replace the swager itself one day soon. We`ll see what happens if i have to replace it.
  5. This video is just one persons opinion and comparison. Lets keep the butt hurt on a low scale here. The purpose for posting the video was to let people see the operation`s of both presses. Personally, i`m glad that people make these videos. It gives us all a heads up on the operations. And its nice to see the guy having a side by side comparison. Videos like this helps new reloaders that are interested in getting into our hobby, with understanding how progressive presses work.
  6. HAAA, funny you mention that... i do have an old Hornady Pro-jecter press all set up and running perfectly. First progressive press i ever bought. I even still have the original cardboard box it came in brand new. I bought it back in the 80`s. That press is dedicated to running my 45acp load. Has a bullet feeder on it as well. It has loaded thousands of rounds, and still runs flawless. I recently switched over the shell plate spring to a 3mm rubber oring because the shell plate retaining spring has not been available for a very long time. The newer LNL AP press uses a 2.5mm diameter shell plate retaining spring. The LNL AP 2.5mm retaining spring does not work in the older Pro-Jector presses. If i ever get around to it, i`ll post some pictures in here of the ole girl. She still looks like a brand new press, even after all these years and thousands upon thousands of rounds later. And, after all the reloading i`ve done on that ole girl, i`ve only had to adjust the pawls twice. I`ll never understand why so many people dog on the LNL AP hornady presses, they work flawless for me, and i have a few of them.
  7. Its not pretty, or rocket science, but I have less than $5 in the funnel and hose. One less process to handle during swaging. Less is more....lol
  8. This is what i did to my LNL AP press running the LNL swager die kit for 223. I`ve yet to see any way faster.
  9. Care to share your exact method in how you accomplished that task? For some people that have MANY shell plates, the oring is the easier way to go.
  10. ALL brands have their good & bad issues and problems, and you`re gonna find that out real quick, so buy what you think you`ll be happy with and git to reloadin!
  11. Thats what i`m seeing here with all my LNL`s as well. No stoppages, no powder jumping during cycling. Presses have been running smooth as silk. So far i`ve gone well over 2,500 rounds, havent broke an oring yet. Still running the first orings i bought/installed, too. I`m gonna keep running them until the oring`s break. I`ll keep tallying the round count as i go.
  12. This is why i`ve been speaking of using the lanolin to lube the oring, it just works better. Be careful using a 9mm (#8 hornady lnl) shell plate for a 223. The 223 cases will be very sloppy fitting.
  13. I`ll post it here for you if i do. Thanks Dave vince
  14. Excellent Dave! Soon as the gun shops start to reopen, i`m going to go pick up one of the latest 223 LNL AP shell plates and try it and see what happens compared to my worn one.
  15. Hi Dave, actually i`ve been using straight lanolin right from the bottle to lube my orings on all my presses. Yeah it works great for pistol cases. Like you, i dont load that many rifle cases on a progressive that often either. More of my rifle loading is geared more towards bench rest kind of loading, so i usually rely mainly on my single stage presses for those loads. I`ve also noticed that the hornady shell plates are inconsistent... meaning their tolerances plate to plate are kinda crappy. This will mess with and dictate how much the case will move or not move within the shell plate. There again, the 223 cases are kind of small too. I dont have any problems with mine, yet, they seem to rotate ok for me. There again, your shell plate might be a tad tighter than mine is too. I tried some 22-250 and 308, those seem to rotate perfectly fine for me. Maybe you might try a little flitz polish on your shell plate where the cases slide in. I`ve done that with a dremel tool with great success to help the cases move easier. Dont polish it hard though. Just a light polish will help it alot. It has for me anyway. Also i would give the sub-plate a slight polish... it is effective. Carnuba wax it when done.
×
×
  • Create New...