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lwink

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About lwink

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Denver, CO
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    Hunting, Shooting, skiing, biking
  • Real Name
    Luke Winkler

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  1. Just wanted to revive this thread, mainly due to some of the info in that made me (and presumably others) question certain brands of mag tube extensions. Recently had the pleasure to get an M3k and multiple mag tube options, including the Nordic MXT and Carbon Arms. After much fiddling, read on if you want some takeaways/comparisons on the product, install, and companies. It's long - but many of us have a lot of time right now. One should also note that the carbon arms does use nordic components as a modular add on, but makes the bulk of the extension (8 rounds) as a 1-piece polished stainless tube that connects directly to the receiver in lieu of the factory aluminum tube. You then get a nordic nut, spring, and extension of your choosing, with the kit, to add an additional 1-4 rounds, or presumably more if you really wanted to at your own risk? Company - Never had an issue with nordic and customer service, if needed, seems great. Have used them for rifle and now shotgun components - they are widely available, time tested, etc. Mark at Carbon Arms has always been great to me as well - gave me as much or more info than I wanted concerning his tube, and I've ordered 3-4 products from him over the past several years without issue. Ships very fast in my experience and despite the archaic website (no offense meant) the products are well designed for a shooter by a shooter, with some design chops. I would never hesitate to reach out to him via the forum and get good info in short order. One can always have, or get, a bad apple - but I wouldn't let this thread deter you from getting his gear. Products - As stated before, nordic extensions, and similar, simply add on to the current mag tube. This could make going back and forth between stock and extended if ever needed a bit easier as it's just a nut, spring, and cap swap. Simple. They look good, are light, sleek, and just seem to work. The do put a seam in the first third(ish) of the mag tube. Some say it's a problem, some not. I didn't struggle with mine for the bit I used it, but sometimes we just like to tinker and get rid of potential issues. I found it very simple to pull and reinstall the factory tube retainer clip on top, again i've heard horror stories and was a bit nervous but found it take just a few seconds and be as easy as any other I've removed. Carbon Arms extension - when I pulled the stainless tube out of the bubble wrap and let my aftermarket follower slide down I couldn't help but smile. Same result when I put the spring and bolt back on during install and cycled it. Noticeably smoother than the factory system. The thing is slick! Carbon arms claims it will help cycle lighter stuff - I woudn't be surprised, but can't speak to that with good before/after info. Install took a bit longer, but it was far from "hard" with basic tools and gun knowledge. I used a heat gun at a pretty high setting to really heat the tube near the receiver to cut loose any locking compound or other finishing crap that might be in there, while being careful to not get too crazy as I did want to save it, then was able to use a channel locks and just twist the factory tube off with minimal force. small mark on the tube, I used the tool near the top just below the threads so if it did scratch it no interference for the recoil system. Just for fun I did try to just crank the old tube off without heat or tools first off - no dice. So you go through all the steps of the nordic plus fully pulling the bolt/recoil system and removing factory tube. Install was simple though, threaded right in and tight, I didn't use thread locker for ease of removal if I want - we will see after 1,000 rounds if it stays tight. I don't see why it wouldn't. Then slide on the tension sleeve, screw on nordic nut, insert follower and spring, nordic extension and you're done. It feels rock solid, according to mark (and I agree) no barrel clamp needed, which I really like personally. In my 10 round tube the seam is barely in play on the last couple shells, and there is no significant levering against aluminum threads during use like other add on systems. The benefits of a 1 piece main tube. So I stick with the carbon arms for now - like the feel and theoretical strength of a more-like one piece system and there's not many options for that - and this price doesn't come in much different than a nordic setup with barrel clamp. More than happy to answer any questions, including more detailed install if anyone is considering that. Can also send pictures of side by side of the systems if someone is interested/on the fence. Again, besides just having extra time and wanting to share info on this great gear, I was recently on the fence of ordering from CA after reading these posts, so hopefully my words will help level the playing field and not deprive someone considering this product from a potentially great option. In short, I'd gladly use either of these systems on my gun but am excited to go with Carbon Arms for now!
  2. +1 on that - hear you don't need them, but I have anti-walk pins on every gun just for fun. Several of the drop ins will come with them, I use a lot of CMC anti walk pins.
  3. +1 on that, for the price you can find them at they are pretty great. I have 4 or 5 of these in the 2.5-3# range - flat or curved is up to you and your personal preference. I have 2 elftman guns, they are also great but definitely come at a heftier price, and not sure I can take advantage of some of their tech you're paying for. One elftman 3-gun model required some tuning but it is great now and breaks like glass, no overtravel to speak of. Twice the price of the CMC on the street, but had to scratch that itch and don't regret it. Also haven't done it again Have one Timney Comp, that is maybe the closest to my bolt guns, but I had to swap firing pins to get reliable ignition, think it must've had pretty light hammer spring? Don't know if I'd trust it as much as other triggers but I do love it for what it's on now (a coyote long range rig). Most recent two triggers I bought because of a sale were Velocity with the interchangeable shoe, so far they are great, although a bit heavier in pull but I don't mind that on certain guns. A crisp 3.5-4#'s. I'm only 1K rounds in no issues and no reason I wouldn't buy again at the pricepoint. All that said - I usually look for CMC first and unless I find something else for a better deal from this list that's what I'll get. Never had an issue with install or going bang
  4. Talon that's the stuff I was actually looking for, have some birchwood casey touch up stuff. Assume it's all the same from different manufacturers just a different label. Tony - the never fail solution!!! And the cheapest option!
  5. I've used something as simple as sharpie for small surface scratches on receivers and scopes before. Next step up that actually lasts on handled parts in my mind is: https://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/pen_black.htm There are homebrew anodization kits as well, but I've never experimented with them. https://www.caswellplating.com/anodize-touch-up-kit.html I'd rather just dive in and do the whole thing as a diy duracoat, alumahyde, etc. Had good luck with those if care is taken and you have basic tools and a place to work.
  6. Is there any method to the larger distribution? horizontal or vertical or just all over? I'm with everyone here, plus a couple thoughts: 1. Verify torque and alignment on scope bases, rings, etc. Down the road maybe even swap scopes with a known performer if you have one to rule that variable out. Check action screws are torqued appropriately - Even on a chassis I'd consider bedding it. 2. Are you going from new brass to once fired brass? Check your sizing method and gear if that's the case. 3 Perform a proper ladder test or at least accuracy node test. Sharing those results will probably help diagnose as well. 4. Same lot of brass, bullets, powder etc? Shouldn't be a crazy difference in much of that but it can happen. 5. Maybe try a few random factory loads and see if there is something that's much better or worse? 6. Get a chamber casting if you're really interested in that, then you'll know for sure what it looks like in there and can decide if a rebarrel is worth it or not. 7. Bore scope the thing and see what it looks like inside, although I've had barrels that looked like the surface of the moon shoot lights out and mirror finish flawless ones not get where I wanted, so that's a deep dark rabbit hole Just a few of the 10,000 things to consider
  7. As far as accuracy I haven't been disappointed in any of the mid-upper range I've used. I would think that weight, balance, and gas system would be a fair bit more important for most. Love my stretch 16, have a lilja that shoots great but is a bit heavier (not fluted), wilson combat that works great, and a few from ballistic advantage that were bargain barrels. Just got a faxon pencil barrel 16" that is showing good signs of life and love the weight/balance of that rig, and cost! If it really is for 3 gun I wouldn't go above 16 personally, but if it's a multipurpose rig and you're not making a living off the sport a longer barrel compromise may be fine. As tony said 2" is great accuracy for what you'd need, when moving and shooting offhand or in less than ideal situations that's as good or better than most will do, but if you're anything like me you just want to know your gun will do better than that, so I understand. Also play with ammo - For example my lilja will shoot .3 moa with 69 grain sierras, less than 1 with about anything I shove down the tube. My faxon will spray a few inches with a lot of 55 grain - but tightens up to .75" with 62gr fiocchi. Play around with brand and weight and you may have a winner in there. If you're looking to invest in your rig I'd start with gas, bolt, and buffer system - and ammo - then a barrel is an easy swap down the road and you won't have wasted anything assuming gas journal diameter stays the same. Love my JP low mass system and have a couple iron city/taccom buffer systems that treat me well.
  8. Nice video! I hadn't seen that one yet, will have to keep an eye on Patrick's channel for any further videos! Last 30 seconds are sure exciting when he mentions all the models on the way!!
  9. Been a savage rifle fanboy for 20+ years (in fact shot my first deer with one 25 years ago). Saw some info on a new scattergun they have called the Renegauge. Also confused by the back story as press releases go back 2 years but it seems like it's just releasing in 2020. Looks like an interesting and well built gas gun and comes in at a price point that would leave me hoping it's a good reliable shooter. They also advertise it as incredibly fast cycling, not that I've ever considered outshooting a gun's cyclic rate, sure some on here do. Anyway, anyone on here seen one of these or heard anything?? And will they end up being a 3 gun contender since they will come out with most likely no aftermarket support? Although did see it comes stock with adjustable stock and uses benelli chokes... so maybe a tube extension compatibility is possible? Love to know more if anyone here has info or seen/handled one firsthand. Or secondhand. https://www.recoilweb.com/new-release-savage-renegauge-semi-auto-shotgun-155765.html
  10. Interesting, didn't think that would be possible. Was this compressed air (canned or from a compressor)?
  11. Anyone tried air for the diode? Granted it's a bit different, but I'll only clean camera sensors (inside the body once the lens is removed) with a special kit that amounts to small bursts of air from something like a blood pressure cuff pump with inflation needle on the end of it. Depending how recessed the emitter is i wonder if a cleaning solution and swab could leave more residue? Although alcohol swabs followed by air could be a great compromise. Will follow closely to see what the consensus is and if anyone is able to reach out to a manufacturer who actually has an answer?
  12. +1 on the 11.5" barrel. But feel free to make up your own mind based on ballistics lost and what range you're wanting to use this for. And what you are using it for Everything has a tradeoff. I've had zero reliability issues with built uppers in this range - with no adjustable gas I'd play with H2 buffers and experiment adding or subtracting one tungsten weight. i have a cheaper H3 and standard carbine buffer I use for tuning so you can effectively build everything from standard to H3 and shoot, watch your brass ejection piles. I'm a big fan of adjustable blocks, even cheaper ones like the seekins that have a set and forget mentality, but I understand a lot of folks are hardcore against them on antyhing that needs to be 100% failproof every time. So much variety out there with different manufacturer's, but with the ability to change buffer weight and adjust gas I've never not had a .223 run well. If you really want one more step up grab the JP silent capture with adjustable weights and springs, but that's going to add a couple hundred bucks onto your rig. That system plus adjustable gas is pretty killer, and I love how smooth it is.
  13. They are cheap but I don't hate my old strike eagle 1-6, in fact just bough another. You can spend twice as much for not much more in my opinion. They are by far the cheapest scopes I own but for what I want them for (0-400 yards range conditions) I'm happy. I do have one sig Tango 1-6 that I think is a couple shades better in less than ideal conditions, and have seen them for under $700 as open box/demo in the past 6 months. Better reticle for longer range in my mind as well. If I saw that again and was in the market I'd snatch a spare! For reference, I shoot mostly bolt actions longer range and have use scopes in the 24-30x range like zeiss v6, leupold vx6, and one razor, so I'm not an expert in the LPVO world. Take it with a grain of salt. PST's (gen 1 or 2) have never impressed me that much for glass quality, although the features are great. I still love vortex for what they are but don't think that line measures up for my needs on most guns. I'd pay a bit more for a pst for durabiltiy over the strike eagle if you're wanting that, as well as the added features, not necessarily much more $$ for better glass.
  14. Shilen does make a nice matched set but is not cheap. After a few trial and errors I put a wilson combat barrel with jp high pressure bolt , headspace checked out ok, and have had good feeding and great accuracy (.5-.6MOA) off the bench with factory ammo and hitting 8" steel out to 600 with ease. Haven't had a chance to go further but that makes me happy with a budget-ish gun and no hand loading. Like many the JP bolt was a lifesaver for me, did not use the whole JP carrier though. Edit: Don't know how much love/hate there is on this site but Christensen makes a 6.5CM barrel and my experience with their bolt guns has been pretty stellar. Again, go this route if you want to spend more, save weight, and get a jp bolt headspaced by you or a smith.
  15. All good info, thanks guys. For reference it’s the m5 receiver not proprietary enhanced version. after finishing it up, shooting and hunting it it came in alright. Haven’t put it on the scale yet but guessing under 10 with scope and mag. Saved almost 3/4 pound on the scope/mount going with a more hunting friendly setup. Leupold vx6 over razor/Steiner options. To do it all again would consider a few hundred more for a carbon barrel, but can’t complain on how it shoots!
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