Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Ion Bond?


firematt100

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 372
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sad story here...I just moved from Ft Benning and I'm "vacationing" at my parent's in TX. I transported my safe and guns with me (don't want the government to move them). The save was on its back covered with a tarp. The guns were inside in soft cases wrapped in blankets, etc. I went through a BUNCH of rain on the drive and needless to say, the safe is not waterproof. I figured as much, hence the tarp, but a lot more water made it into my safe than I ever thought. Several guns started to rust. My IonBonded guns on the otherhand, were perfect. No rust at all. I guess once I get back from Iraq, I'll be using some of the money I saved and get all my guns coated.

Ryan, I'll be sending a big order in about a year!

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now if i send in my 140mm Tuned mags. Will their performance be affected by the ionbonding?

i'm thinking it should help (smoother feeding, easier to clean, etc, etc) but i was under the assumption its a bit hard to get proper coverage on the inside of the tube. the outside should be no problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now if i send in my 140mm Tuned mags. Will their performance be affected by the ionbonding?

If you go back to post #83 of this thread there are some pics of the mags I had done (I believe the links are still good). Because of the manner in which the coating is applied, they dont do the inside of the tube.

I have had mine since last April and have been really pleased, tons of dry fire reloads and roughly three matches a month and not a scratch on them.

Two of the three tubes I had were Brazo's tuned, one Dawson, two Me, and none were affected by the coating. I LOVE the look of the black mags and have two more that Howard Smith (HSMITH) tuned, witness holed and etched that I just havent hide the time/money to do, but am dying to see how the laser etching he does comes out with the black coating, should be awesome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a detailed description of the various firearm finishes available today by accomplished gunsmith, John Harrison. Note that the salt spray rating for IONBOND is 48 hours, much less than the painted on coatings. If one wants absolute corrosion resistance, painted or Melonite finishes win. For abrasive resistance, IONBOND is the way to go (Although the Melonite itself won't wear, the external painted finish will like Glocks made today). It's too bad that the true tenifer process that Glock used years ago isn't available here. If you remember Glocks from the 80's and 90's, the finish was indestructable. It also got harder with age with the color turning from black into a dark grey.

The name of the company is IonBond, LLC in Greensboro, NC. The finish is called "DLC" in the firearms industry. It's hard to accurately do an apples to apples comparison of the finishes, since they are apples, oranges, bananas and grapefruits, but here's my short $0.02 worth.

Bear Coat and Black-T are sorta cousins in that they are sprayed on coatings that are baked at a fairly low temp to cure. So long as their skin is not broken, they have the highest advertised salt spray corrosion test numbers, like a 1,000 hours or such.

Neither Bear Coat or Black-T is particularly resistant to abrasion, when compared to Melonite and DLC, although they are more durable than bluing and Parkerizing, maybe because the coating thickness is greater. Folks will argue that one is appreciably more durable than the other but I just can't see a huge difference myself. My own experience with using Black-T on a bunch of pistols and Bear Coat on a few is the chief difference to me is that often times the Bear Coat was so thick as to require a bit of controlled sanding in concealed places to get the parts back together after being finished in Bear Coat. I've never had an assembly problem with Black-T, even on fairly tight guns.

Melonite and DLC are a more fair comparison to each other as both are really hard on the Rockwell "C" scale. DLC is advertised at 70 to 90. I don't know about Melonite, but would expect a similar test result. Melonite is a surface treatment that is finished off in Black Oxide (think bluing) where DLC is a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. From my experience, the black color is more durable on DLC. To me, the big difference between these two is the temperatures involved. Melonite is done at temps around 1200 degrees, give or take; where DLC is done at 400 degrees (just a little hotter than bluing tanks). Aside from the obvious difference in temperatures that the gun is subjected to, this means is that the smaller parts like extractor, pins, screws, sear, hammer, magazine catch, etc. cannot be finished in Melonite. They have to be finished in black oxide or a spray on finish. With DLC, all the parts can be done.

DLC's salt spray test time is claimed at 48 hours. Bluing fails in under 3 hours normally. I don't know what Melonite is rated at.

I did have a lot of problems reassembling pistols treated with Melonite, mostly having to lap fit the slide & frame rails after the treatment. I've had no problems with DLC with reassembly.

Melonite seems to only be available in matte finishes, where DLC can be done on polished surfaces and in my eyes, looks so much like bluing that you can hardly tell.

Hope this answers some of your questions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glocks from the 80's and 90's

Are you saying Glock changed their finish or surface treatment?

Yes. I had many Glocks in the 80's and 90's. The older ones had a black finish that turned dark grey over time. This finish was super hard and did not scratch easily. I noticed that on Glock's that I purchased around 2002, the finish had changed. After one range session, the slide was showing wear from the Kydex holster I was using. The original tennifer finish from Austria used some dangerous materials in it's application (I believe one was cyanide).

It would be interesting to find out if Glock's sold here in the US have their slides finished here with a more (I hate to use the term) "Green Friendly" process (i.e. melonite with a painted finish) and whether Glock's made in Austria still use the old finishing process. I think SIG used to utilize a finish similar to the old Glock finish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A bit of thread drift, but I'll keep it short.

The finish did change and is more shiny these days. I don't know when. If you say 2002, I'll buy that. But that is not the tenifer. I believe the tenifer is clear, or nearly colorless, and the black finish is just parkerizing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A bit of thread drift, but I'll keep it short.

The finish did change and is more shiny these days. I don't know when. If you say 2002, I'll buy that. But that is not the tenifer. I believe the tenifer is clear, or nearly colorless, and the black finish is just parkerizing.

Tennfer is silver/grey. The original Glock finish had no outside coating. The tenifer itself was exposed and was black when new, but as mentioned aboved, changed to dark grey as the finish aged. It was still nitrocarburizing, but a slightly different mixture was used.

Heres a picture of a 2nd generation Glock 19 with the old finish:

post-8864-1199676352.jpg

Edited by Singlestack Wonder
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Anyone have pictures of the IONBOND'ed pistol with 1000's of draws from Kydex yet?

I picked this up the last week of April, original pics are in post #38 of this thread (I think). I ran a CR Speed WSM II for a while, but have been using a DOH for at least 5-6 months.

The EGW magwell was new when I picked up the gun, but they wouldnt do aluminum at that time (someone in this thread said they do now) but I included it with the pic of the mag to show how beat up the magwell is versus the magazine.

The mag looks a little scratched, but they are very difficult to see except in the pics!

CIMG0145.jpg

CIMG0151.jpg

CIMG0152.jpg

Edited by CDRODA396
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...