Ion Bond?

[Loves2Shoot]

Yes, you do need to saturate it with oil in friction points to start of with.

[mpeltier]

Here are some recent pics of my IONBOND caspian. Finally got around to making the grips for it. It is now about a year old, been to about 20 matches, hundreds of draws from kydex and about 4-5 thousand rounds. Note the total lack of wear at the muzzle. It is really amazing.

Forgot to add the magwell is dinged up and shows some scuffs inside, but it is the only black component that is not IONBOND.

Edited March 22, 2009 by mpeltier

[Larry White]

Here are some recent pics of my IONBOND caspian. Finally got around to making the grips for it. It is now about a year old, been to about 20 matches, hundreds of draws from kydex and about 4-5 thousand rounds. Note the total lack of wear at the muzzle. It is really amazing.

Forgot to add the magwell is dinged up and shows some scuffs inside, but it is the only black component that is not IONBOND.

Nice pistol, I like that!--------------Larry

[DHart]

I have IonBond on my Springfield 1911 Custom Hi-Cap. It's a fantastic finish... highly recommended!

[Singlestack]

That is breath taking.

[DHart]

That is breath taking.

Thank you... it's one of my most favorite pistols!

[John2A]

Before and After.

[CDPMatt]

I'm looking to get my S&W Model 10 Revolver done as the blued finish is toast and I am getting tired of wiping off surface rust. Can IonBond do Revolvers?

Thanks,

Matt

[fatcat]

Sorry for not the best pics in the world. Ionbond in "satin" finish. Gunsmithing by Will O'Hara (Corona, California)

[Loves2Shoot]

I'm looking to get my S&W Model 10 Revolver done as the blued finish is toast and I am getting tired of wiping off surface rust. Can IonBond do Revolvers?

Thanks,

Matt

Yes

[CDPMatt]

I'm looking to get my S&W Model 10 Revolver done as the blued finish is toast and I am getting tired of wiping off surface rust. Can IonBond do Revolvers?

Thanks,

Matt

Yes

Thanks Scott, I did not see Revolvers listed on your IonBond work order can you shoot me a price point on the finishes for a 4" K-frame revolver?

[Loves2Shoot]

pm sent

[CDPMatt]

pm sent

Thank you Scott,

matt

[evenstill]

Several quick questions, three on topic and one off . . .

1. What lubes and protectants would be good to use with the W DLC coating? I currently use TruRecoil for my daily CLP and after about 500-1000 rounds do a “deep clean” with a modified Ed’s Red in an ultrasonic cleaner, followed by brake cleaner, TruRecoil on most parts, and either Finish Line dry teflon lube or KG 10 dry Moly (molybdenum) lube on more critical/high friction areas.

2. Does anybody know when Sig Sauer started using the Tungsten Diamond Like Carbon (aka W DLC or IonBond) coating for their “Nitron” finish?

3. I would like to have all of my 1911 internals finished with the W DLC coating but may not be able to afford it at the current prices . . . what internals would you say are essential (or the most important) to have coated if I could only do some of them? Are there any parts that you definitely would NOT have coated? What about the firing pin?

4. Does anybody know when Sig Sauer started using MIM parts in their RCS and other 1911 models? I spoke with a rep the other day regarding the 1911 RCS and was told that they’ve been using a MIM grip safety, thumb safety, and slide stop for the past 5 or 6 years which would put it around 2005-2006 . . . anyone know for sure?

[BlueOvalBruin]

Several quick questions, three on topic and one off . . .

1. What lubes and protectants would be good to use with the W DLC coating? I currently use TruRecoil for my daily CLP and after about 500-1000 rounds do a “deep clean” with a modified Ed’s Red in an ultrasonic cleaner, followed by brake cleaner, TruRecoil on most parts, and either Finish Line dry teflon lube or KG 10 dry Moly (molybdenum) lube on more critical/high friction areas.

2. Does anybody know when Sig Sauer started using the Tungsten Diamond Like Carbon (aka W DLC or IonBond) coating for their “Nitron” finish?

3. I would like to have all of my 1911 internals finished with the W DLC coating but may not be able to afford it at the current prices . . . what internals would you say are essential (or the most important) to have coated if I could only do some of them? Are there any parts that you definitely would NOT have coated? What about the firing pin?

4. Does anybody know when Sig Sauer started using MIM parts in their RCS and other 1911 models? I spoke with a rep the other day regarding the 1911 RCS and was told that they’ve been using a MIM grip safety, thumb safety, and slide stop for the past 5 or 6 years which would put it around 2005-2006 . . . anyone know for sure?

1. You can probably use the same lubes as before, that said I like slide glide lite on the slide/frame rails and barrel bearing surfaces and brownells action lube on the fire control parts.

2. Don't know.

3. You probably don't need the internals coated, just the frame, slide, slide stop, and safeties and a magwell if you have one. I would definitely leave the sear alone. Maybe even the hammer even though it's exposed to the elements. The other internals are pretty well protected from the elements.

4. Don't know. I think they started using MIM in the P226 parts about 2 years ago though.

[polizei1]

I coated everything minus the internal parts. John Harrison does have an Ionbond trigger, hammer, and strut pin. if you want to go that route. Notice he did NOT coat the sear or disconnector.

http://shop.harrisoncustom.com/category/54-1911-triggers.aspx

http://shop.harrisoncustom.com/products/171-hd-120-b-ignition-set-featuring-dlc-coated-hammer.aspx

http://shop.harrisoncustom.com/products/170-hd-125-b-dlc-coated-strut-pin.aspx

I don't lube my finish, but you can. I use Hoppes #9.

[evenstill]

Here’s another thought I’d like to get feedback on in addition to the 4 inquiries in my previous post . . .

I’ve read in multiple places that it is best to fill the W DLC “tubes” with something like an oil to act as a protectant for the base material and to add lubrication. What if instead of using one of the standard gun oils or something which would need constant replacing, one simply had another finish applied in addition to the W DLC. Maybe something like DuPont’s industrial TEFLON-S. It seems to me that the TEFLON-S would provide a “permanent” filling for the DLC pores that has excellent properties in and of itself including (but not limited to) 0% water absorption, a hardness of 60-90, excellent abrasion resistance, excellent salt spray resistance, good chemical resistance, is non-stick, and has a .1-.4 kinetic coefficient of friction and .15-.35 static coefficient of friction.

Any thoughts on this idea in general or the TEFLON-S as a secondary finish in specific?

Any idea if the two would adhere to each other and work well together in this way?

Any ideas who can provide the TEFLON-S as a secondary coating other than h t t p : // w w w . bearcoat . com?

[Loves2Shoot]

That seems very complicated since all you need to do is run a rag or brush through them when you clean the magazines and you are done. We have done CeraKote and it works, but is not worth the cost or hassle unless you are a SEAL or something like that.

[jriera]

I asked today for turn-around time for doing my slide ... 6 to 8 weeks .. May have to wait until next summer ... season is just starting here ...

[Loves2Shoot]

They are running their coating machines 3 shifts and 7 days a week, but we have been told that the leads times should become shorter the end of October.

[jriera]

Thanks Scott, will try later in the year.

PS. great customer service, got my email answered in a couple of hours ... lots of companies should learn from them.

Edited September 28, 2011 by jriera

[ChrisMcCracken]

Anyone got updates on what it costs to get a gun coated in Diamond Like Black or how long the lead times are?

[Loves2Shoot]

Link to info and work order form w/ pricing

6-8 weeks is typical. We are heading out of the super duper busy coating season, so lead times will fall back into these time frames.