ysrracer Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 I'm talking about right above the forcing cone. Should I just soak it with solvent, then pick it out with a dental pick? Slide a razor blade between them? Is it even necessary to clean it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 Dental pick is the only way to go. Doing my annual gun cleaning today myself, and that’s the worst part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteekay Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 I'm slightly concerned that that carbon is all that's holding my 627 together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvshooter Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 Dental pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishbreath Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 I recently bought a set of dental picks at Harbor Freight, and that bit of my gun is as clean as it's been in a long time. Good $6 spent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ysrracer Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 Maybe I should just JB Weld it closed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45 Raven Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 If it is stainless and not blued, you can slide the edge of a "Lead Wipe" cloth in the gap between the bottom of the top strap and top of the forcing cone and get it really clean with a little work. But the cloth can remove blueing . . . . so avoid using on those firearms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT_Schultz Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 5 hours ago, ysrracer said: I'm talking about right above the forcing cone. Should I just soak it with solvent, then pick it out with a dental pick? Slide a razor blade between them? Is it even necessary to clean it? I clean as much as I need to to let the cylinder spin free. After that I don't care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_w Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 As has been said dental picks and a good carbon remover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IPSCLUVERRR Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 You guys clean revos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 What is this cleaning thing you speak of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 If you clean there it'll just make the top strap erosion more noticable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteekay Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 37 minutes ago, PatJones said: If you clean there it'll just make the top strap erosion more noticable. That's what I'm saying - it's frame reinforcement. If only some intrepid firearm designer made a revolver that fired from the bottom to avoid these issues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 I use an O-Ring Pick still sharp point but thicker shaft. But unless it begins looking like a stalactite I've quit worrying about it. And like Matteekay I'm worried that cleaning "too" much may jinx the whole deal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&W627shooter Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Dental picks or an ultrasonic cleaner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_w Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 (edited) S&W really spent some time on that forcing cone. Nice 5° lapped smooth. :eyeroll: I usually soak it with carbon lead remover. Hit it with a nylon bristled brush. Wipe. Blow it off with compressed air. If there is any left in the seam or corner I use a dental pick. They also make them in nylon so they won't scratch as easily. Then follow up with more cleaner and finally a thin flip of lube. Edited October 26, 2021 by tim_w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 1 hour ago, tim_w said: S&W really spent some time on that forcing cone. Nice 5° lapped smooth. :eyeroll: My gun? It holds the A zone on an IPSC turtle target at 50 yards. It it ain't broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_w Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Oh I am sure. Only pointing out how what should be to spec 5° is zero just a flat cut. As long as the cyl chamber lines up and throat size is good things are gtg. Was not meant as a knock on your pistola. Many of mine are the same way. BTW what model is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 1 hour ago, tim_w said: Oh I am sure. Only pointing out how what should be to spec 5° is zero just a flat cut. As long as the cyl chamber lines up and throat size is good things are gtg. Was not meant as a knock on your pistola. Many of mine are the same way. BTW what model is that? An old 5" 627 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gargoil66 Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 Since I clean with CLP for the most part, I hose it down and use a GI cleaning brush. Regular, issued, CLP does a good job loosening that sort of really hard carbon. Dental pick would be my choice but I don't have one so if it bugs me, I use a thread from a piece of para cord like one would dental floss. A dental pick would be easier to use than gutted para cord. GG66 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 13 hours ago, tim_w said: Oh I am sure. Only pointing out how what should be to spec 5° is zero just a flat cut. I re-read your post this morning. What are you talking about that should be 5 degrees? The back of the barrel, or the forcing cone? The rear of the barrel is always flat. The forcing cone is cut to one of 2 angles and there is usually a small chamfer on the leading edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testosterone Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 On 10/26/2021 at 12:09 AM, PatJones said: If you clean there it'll just make the top strap erosion more noticable. Wowzer, how many rounds on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 2 hours ago, testosterone said: Wowzer, how many rounds on that? Dunno, I lost count at 30k 5-6 years ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badkarma Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Your results might vary, but I've been using Black Rifle Balm (https://www.cherrybalmz.com/product-page/black-rifle-balm) after cleaning. I apply it around the barrel and on the extractor rod collar, where build up usually occurs. Build up on my 617 (worst case scenario) has been lessened significantly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DS-10-SPEED Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 I prefer to use something that is harder than lead and softer than the frame to minimize scratching the gun. I make scrapers from spent brass rifle cartridges, I just squash the end flat and file and shape for the intended purpose. I first apply a lead solvent and let it soak a few minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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