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gargoil66

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About gargoil66

  • Birthday 11/16/1955

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    Washington (East Side)
  • Real Name
    Gene Econ

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Calls Shots

Calls Shots (8/11)

  1. And that is 'zakley' why I just bought a UniqueTek funnel for .358 bullets. Sick of having to put the bullets back upright when they flop over or even pop out of the case on rotation of the shell plate. Also, the straighter the bullet goes into the brass, the better. GG
  2. M Die widens the case so powder coated and cast bullets can seat into it straighter and without shaving lead. I am not positive my Lyman M die is of more value than my taper crimp die so I pulled the M Die and will keep on the taper crimp. I am positive the taper crimp is functional. The M Die is for .38 Spl and I am using it on .38 Super so there may be a problem with the size of the expander punch not opening up the Super brass well enough for it to do what it was designed to do. I am putting a slight roll crimp into the brass with my seating die but am depending on the taper crimp to do most of the work holding the bullet in under recoil. Must be working because I haven't had problems with bullets getting pulled except for my 327 TRR-8 and that stopped once I got it magna ported. I do see a lot of value in an M-Die but will take a look at a specialty funnel from Unique Tek as BHB advised. GG
  3. Five stations on my press and I need six. So, I can either remove an M-Die and depend on the funnel on my Dillon powder measure to flare the case or I can remove a Taper Crimp die and depend on the seating / roll crimping die for a crimp. Let me 'axed' this question. Which die should I ditch - Taper Crimp or M Die? GG
  4. Vic: Doesn't take much to do that to a powder coated, lead bullet. GG
  5. BE: Does it work with factory loads? Also, did you install a after market 'competitive' main spring? If so, you may find the only primers that work reliably are Fed 100's. By all means, check that the hammer isn't scraping on the side of the frame as JFD recommended. Go to Fed 100 primers since they are the most sensitive on the market. Ensure that what ever device is seating the primers is seating them firmly to the base of the primer pocket. .005" below the rim is the amount I believe. It is easy to measure with calipers but visually the primer will be far enough below the rim that you can easily see it. Guys here have other suggestions but the primer and seating depth seem to be the two big issues with handloading for revolvers. Particularly if a guy dropped in a competitive mainspring. GG
  6. YR: Try canting the revolver. Ergonomically it is much more natural a position and you will find it to be steadier and give a better (more direct) trigger pull. Just that you will need to break the shot at about 10 on the target. Bullets always go down and in the direction of the cant. I will say that your hold will be better, trigger pull better, and confidence in weak hand will increase. Salt Lake. Ugh. Two solid day drive. Did the SC match there last summer and do not want to make that drive again. Hope the wind is coming from the South because there is a significant garbage dump directly to the North. The ranges are good and the staff there runs a professional and well organized match. Ought to be pretty decent, given a south wind of course. GG
  7. As a related question. Is there another name for this venue? I looked on Practiscore and it seems the only matches are in Canada or the South and North Eastern USA. They look really fun and I wouldn't mind doing some. GG
  8. Above my pay grade now. I just did a 'trigger job' using the Miculek DVD. Followed his directions to the letter. I think he is correct when he says that all I did was give it five or so thousand rounds worth of wear. Is the pull better? Yes, much smoother but I put in a TK main and rebound spring. Eight pounds down to six. It was a good way to learn the workings of a revolver but the problem at hand on this thread with the hammer hesitating on a cylinder makes me think there is a problem with the ratchet but the funny thing about these situations is that it rarely is anything anyone thought up. My advice, call TK and 'axed' them. GG
  9. Happened with a Power Custom and a issued firing pin. Probably not the firing pin Only other two things you added were shims and a fifteen pound rebound spring. Apparently it was working with the shims and rebound spring? Remove grips, loosen strain screw, remove side plate. Do a visual inspection for anything that is chipped or broken. Clean and lube. Put it back together and see if it works. If it is doing the same thing, remove the shims and try. If it isn't working still, put the original rebound spring back in and try. If not working still, you need to consult a good revolversmith. GG
  10. gargoil66

    Ticks

    Ha! At least you had the tool for the job! Wish I was that fortunate! GG
  11. As Jason said, try some .38 Short Colt before getting the cylinder reamed for 9mm. Since you can use SC brass with moons, speed loaders (although the brass is short), or load it as is, it is more versatile than a cartridge that can only be loaded with moon clips. I have a V Comp with the cylinder reamed for .38 Super and TK will get er done perfectly so if you really think that 9mm is the way to go with a TRR-8, send the cylinder to TK. I don't care for 9mm as a cartridge due to its taper and variations in sizes between companies. I do own two firearms that take 9mm and do load for it but as of late, I can buy Blazer 9mm for the same cost as reloading so I buy a case or two when I run low. Also, your barrel is for .38 caliber bullets, not 9mm, so you will end up having to load oversize bullets into the 9mm cases which isn't a huge deal but to me, just another problem waiting to happen. GG
  12. gargoil66

    Ticks

    That would be a use of 'cue words'. He, he.
  13. gargoil66

    Ticks

    Farmer: Reading into rituals. Have you ever done something to stop some sort of negative thought and or to get you back on track? For example, after working for ten or so hours, you have to face a deadlined piece of equipment. You feel the exhaustion and your mind reinforces the feeling. However you know you must fix the piece of equipment. So, to stop the negative thoughts and feelings, you stamp your feet, slap your arms, or something of the sort and say to yourself -- 'tough...am getting it fixed before I do another thing.' So you get the gear running without any sort of problem. That slapping or stamping would be something like a ritual -- not precisely because technically I guess it would be a physical cue but it does what a ritual does -- clears the mind of anxiety and intrusive thoughts and gives a person confidence they can do something and do it smoothly, quickly, and perfectly. Getting stuff prepared the day before probably isn't a ritual. It is something you do because you want some time to make sure you got everything you need to compete. It is a smart thing and I find prepping the day or even two days before an event to relieve stress and let me focus on the things I must do at the event to succeed. A ritual would be something you would do just before competing to clear the mind and let you 'get er done'. GG
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