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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Fishbreath

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    Looks for Target

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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    Jay Slater

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  1. It's a possibility for sure, especially since nylon expands 2-4x as much as aluminum with heating, but I don't think it's a strong contender. The GP100-style cylinder release is a lever arm that pivots around a pin in the left side of the frame behind the recoil shield. Push inward on the release, and an arm behind the recoil shield levers forward. A peg on the lever presses a button on the back of the cylinder, which unlocks the cylinder. A spring and plunger in the latch hold it in the cylinder-open position when the cylinder isn't pushing back on it, and the lever arm interferes
  2. This would be an edgy take, if practical shooting as a sport hadn't already tried "no divisions, everyone shoots heads up" last millennium.
  3. I've got about 0.005" of endshake, it seems—it'll pass a 0.002" feeler gauge, but not quite a 0.0025" gauge, pushed forward. I think residue buildup might have been part of it. I gave the forcing cone and cylinder face a good scrub, and can see a bit more light between them than I could before. I'll have to add 'hot after 100 or 150 rounds' to my list of B/C gap measurements to take when I'm at the range. I don't think I have this problem, since it seems like the feeler gauge slides around without binding more at the top or bottom, but good to keep in mind either way.
  4. Cold, 0.007-0.008" (cylinder pushed to rear). I'll measure hot next time I'm at the range.
  5. Zilch—I inherited a stash of Bullseye I was working my way through, and have been waffling on whether to replace it with something different when I run out of this last pound or so.
  6. Ibejiheads 160gr and Bullseye. Which is a notably dirty powder, and I do see some soot rings on the barrel-side face of the cylinder, around the front ends of the chambers. I'll make sure to take a brass brush up to the range with me this week. Any recommendations for something cleaner? While the shim suggests it's .002", feeler gauges at the barrel/cylinder gap put it at more like 0.005".
  7. Yup, Super GP in .38. Not strictly sure—it seems to happen mainly on the clock, frustratingly. I'm going to fit a practice in this week and see if I can make it happen a few times for testing. There's no real resistance to opening the cylinder, and in many cases, thumbing the hammer back will turn the cylinder and free things up again. Going by the safe table after each stage, I found that I could feel some notchiness in the trigger at certain points in the cylinder's rotation (I'd feel it again after counting to 8). Wiping the face of the cylinder beneath the
  8. I thought I'd solved this after the last match, but it appears I was wrong. For the last several outings now, I've been getting extreme variation in trigger pull and extremely heavy trigger pulls after a stage or two. I'm utterly confused as to why--it only started toward the end of last year, and seems to be largely independent of gun cleanliness or ammo. One thought may be debris under the star--the tolerance on this gun is very tight, to the point that even a 0.002" cylinder shim prevents the cylinder from closing. It looks clean to be, but 0.002" of something might
  9. I already am. A wheelgun is hard mode, and I was getting lazy with shooting fundamentals in Carry Optics.
  10. I got my 3D printer set up for nylon, which means I can make production-ready plastic parts now. The most common feedback I got about the original design was, "Can you make a bigger one?" So I gave it a try. I think I like it. We'll see how it goes in dry fire over the next few days.
  11. Exactly. Better to iron all this out before major matches. (That's in part why my major match calendar looks pretty back-loaded this year.) Anyway, I hope to come back to the bobbed hammer at some point.
  12. One match in the books with the bobbed hammer, and I figured I would document my findings. After a practice that had me trusting the bobbed hammer and 9lb spring setup, the match was a dumpster fire. Light strikes started early and got worse, to the point where I put in the 14lb factory hammer spring after three stages. That turned all notchy, and locked up entirely on the last stage of the day, to the point that I had to thumb the hammer back to free it. Postmortem analysis: Despite looking identical to the naked eye, some combination of the hammer and hammer dog are
  13. I went through the same process on a lark a while ago—working from a photo, I measured out a circle of the same width as the Rhino cylinder, and laid out scaled 9mm circles. You could easily fit 7, but there's just not enough room for 8.
  14. I recently bobbed a hammer for my Super GP100. I have a cut one and an uncut one now. With the 9lb hammer spring, the bobbed hammer sets off Winchester primers reliably, whereas the stock hammer didn't.
  15. Here's mine. Each peg holds 4 .38 Special clips, or 5 .38 Short, for 640 rounds at full load. I'm pretty sure you're right.
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