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10x bushing on shadow 2 DIY?


chomorro

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Thinking about trying this install since I staying home anyways. Need to get an 11mm deep socket i believe and 6 inch extension.

 

Anybody regret doing this themselves lol. Cost about $40 to install at the gunsmith but I have the tools and it seems straight forward.

 

I'm in CA so the shadow 2 was already hard to get.... maybe it's worth paying a smith.

 

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Can you take your gun and put it back together? If yes then this is piss easy

Play around with the socket for the right size. You want want that’s going to catch the lip of the bushing. A swivel extension is better too.

Tap up the slide if you a worried about scratches. Clamp it down to a bench or use a vice.

Push the front sight pin out first and remember to install a new one when you are done.


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Can you take your gun and put it back together? If yes then this is piss easy

Play around with the socket for the right size. You want want that’s going to catch the lip of the bushing. A swivel extension is better too.

Tap up the slide if you a worried about scratches. Clamp it down to a bench or use a vice.

Push the front sight pin out first and remember to install a new one when you are done.


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I dont have a new front pin. I should probably order that before I start the project.

Is the socket a deep socket or regular or does it even matter?

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Pay the $40. I did it myself, not worth the hassle. Getting the old one out was by no definition "easy". Install was, but you'll beat the hell out of your gun getting the old one out. For reference, I've installed triggers in XDMs, Ruger Marks and my CZ. The bushing sucked.

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Pay the $40. I did it myself, not worth the hassle. Getting the old one out was by no definition "easy". Install was, but you'll beat the hell out of your gun getting the old one out. For reference, I've installed triggers in XDMs, Ruger Marks and my CZ. The bushing sucked.

I've done it in 4 guns. Never had any problem. And I didn't put one scratch or blemish on any of the slides. Tape the slide and put it in a vice. Unless you have terrible aim with a hammer I can't see how you would damage the slide.

 

Put the slide and the new bushing in the freezer to constrict it a bit to make it easier to tap out and into the slide.

 

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Pay the $40. I did it myself, not worth the hassle. Getting the old one out was by no definition "easy". Install was, but you'll beat the hell out of your gun getting the old one out. For reference, I've installed triggers in XDMs, Ruger Marks and my CZ. The bushing sucked.
I am a little worried about not lining up the pin notch exactly perfect since that requires drilling to fix.....

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2 hours ago, chomorro said:

I am a little worried about not lining up the pin notch exactly perfect since that requires drilling to fix.....

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If it goes in off center and the pin doesn't line up, remove the bushing and reinstall. Sometimes the pin channel needs a little bit of filing, do not drill it after installing the bushing. The bushing is harder than the slide and you'll ruin the pin holes in the slide trying to drill the bushing. I use a 10mm(I think)socket and a 6" extension. Hold that and the slide in one hand and tap the extension with a hammer. Never had to clamp it in a vice. I do leave the slide and new bushing in the deep freezer overnight.

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if your gun accurate u don't need to change this part.

my TSO suffer from 4" vertical spread .only from this reason i changed bushing. now it shoot  less than 1" groups at 20 yd.

point of impact was in same place .

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I’ve done 6 different guns, it’s a pretty simple job. I’ve only had one factory bushing that was a bit hard to come out. All the guns I swapped the bushings out in did improve the accuracy on them.

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Toss slide and 10x bushing in freezer for about 20 min. 
Remove pin. 
Insert deep socket into slide against bushing that fits just right. 
Use soft jaw vise and tilt slide slightly in vise jaws so one corner is on end of socket and  other on front of slide just below bushing. Tighten down vise jaws and press busing right out super easy.

Thumb pressure to install 10x. Reinstall pin. 
22 min total. 

Edited by Demp223
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I've done this change in 3 different guns (2 TSOs and a Shadow 1). Installing the new bushing is easy (especially if you put it in the freezer overnight before you swap it in), but removing the old bushing can be problematic. In 2 out of my 3 attempts (the Shadow and one of the TSOs), it was super easy... the third was an absolute bear, even with all of the normal hints and tricks like putting the slide in the freezer to contract. Took several different attempts before I finally just started using bigger and bigger hammers until the stupid thing turned loose. Not only did I gouge the heck out of the inside of the stock bushing, but something got jammed or peened or something, and the socket that I used as a punch is now permanently affixed to the extension I had it on. By the end, I would have gladly paid someone $40 to deal with it.

 

My 2 cents is to give it a try, and if the stock bushing doesn't seem to be coming loose, then call it a day and turn it over to the local smith.

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I did this to my SP01, it was a little time, and some good beating. If you have the tools and time, and gear head know how, it should not be a problem.

Just do remember that there is the locating pin slot that goes at the top to hold in the bushing and sight.

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So I'm getting the sense that the bushing isn't a "must do" unless there's lots of play in the OEM bushing or the gun has seen a ton of rounds?

I mostly run 147gr/150's @ around 130pf and like that recoil impulse, but every now and again when I think the gun's accuracy is off or groups are opening up, I start thinking of trying the 10X bushing... then I shoot some 124gr stuff, the groups shrink, and I go "nope, it's me" lol. 

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I had a tso that was extremely difficult to remove but it came out eventually with no damage. No modification is a must do but you shoot a cz because its better than a glock why not maximize performance with this cheap easy part.

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So I'm getting the sense that the bushing isn't a "must do" unless there's lots of play in the OEM bushing or the gun has seen a ton of rounds? I mostly run 147gr/150's @ around 130pf and like that recoil impulse, but every now and again when I think the gun's accuracy is off or groups are opening up, I start thinking of trying the 10X bushing... then I shoot some 124gr stuff, the groups shrink, and I go "nope, it's me" lol. 

 

My shadow 2 is the most accurate gun I have ever shot. My friend just put the 10x bushing in his and I have one sitting on my desk waiting to be installed. I did have a 9mm 1911 that was more accurate for me at 25 yards plus. I attributed that to a tighter tolerance bushing but I could be guessing. 

 

I am able to hit 100 yard 8 inch steel with the shadow 2 after a few tries and I am a new shooter so it's not inaccurate lol.

 

Even if I didnt have one I would probably still buy one and put it in because I'm competing with my friend lol. Any little edge that doesn't cost a lot is ok by me.

 

I will say I had a shadow 1 long time ago I installed the 10x bushing in (smith did it) that I saw no performance increase for my shots. So that was $100 out the door and no difference really. But my shadow 2 factory still out shot it greatly in MY hands.

 

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I replace a lot of bushings/bearings on military jets. When I want to “shrink” a bushing for an interference fit there are three methods. Use liquid nitrogen, dry ice with liquid acetone, and dry ice with isopropyl alcohol. Suspend bushings from a wire into whatever solution you choose for about 20-30 minutes and install while wearing a pair of gloves. The nitrogen method is probably not accessible to most people but everyone can get dry ice and isopropyl alcohol. Put enough liquid in a metal container (I use a cheap stainless thermos). Do not put the lid on the thermos for obvious reasons (big explosion from the gas expansion).

 

All this being said, I did not need to do all of this when I replaced my barrel bushing on my Shadow2. It was a snug fit but not so bad that I need to freeze the bushing to -109F degrees. If I had a really really tight fit, or was fighting with it a lot, I might use the above mentioned method.

 

As for putting the frame in the freezer, I am not sure what the point to that would be. It seems to me that if you shrink the frame the bushing hole would also be smaller, thereby defeating the purpose...but if someone could explain that to me, I would appreciate it. I am never too old to learn a new trick:-)

 

 

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Hot slide, cold bushing, easy peasey

That is what I was getting at:-) expand the diameter of the bushing hole in the slide by warming it up and shrink the busing by freezing it. Then install....I think it would be counter productive to freeze both the slide and the bushing.

All I did was freeze the bushing and did nothing to the slide and it worked like a champ...but work quickly to line up the pin channel or you will have to drill it or knock it out and start over.


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I did 11mm deep socket with extension down in it long enough to stick up from the hammer side of slide that you can grip the slide and extension in one hand squeezing them together. Drill a 3/4" hole in a piece of 2x4 so the stock bushing will move into the hole as you hammer it out and the board will protect the muzzle of the slide. Heavy hammer helps.

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