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inertia

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About inertia

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Richard Saunders

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  1. I have a gen 2 and the new pcc, the newer gun is less picky about ammo than the old one. The loads I picked as best balance of accuracy, recoil and reliability in my picky one run perfectly in the new one. One last idea, my original gen 2 mags had very stiff mag springs that exacerbated feeding problems. I would break them in aggressively and or add some extensions that reduce spring pressure a bit, that has helped my guns maintain cycling reliability as well.
  2. I posted in your other thread load for function not power factor, its gas operated gun, use more powder by lightening the bullet and or slowing the powder and it will run. My new pcc is much less picky than my gen 2. When I stopped trying to use pistol loads and developed loads just for the mpx all of my problems dissapeared.
  3. From my experience you dont necessarily need more power factor, you need more gas to run the gun. I did a lot of testing 115, 124, 147 and something like 6-7 powders. All things being equal the powder charge nearly determines cycling, so lightest bullet and slowest powder = largest charge and the gun will run with sub minor loads. The sweet spot for me was middle of the road, about 4 grains give or take of a mid-fast powder like 231 or N320 with 115 or 124 was 135 pf ish and ran perfectly. The less than 3 grains of N310 with a 147 is a no go in a gas gun, and 5+ grains of autocomp runs but recoils significantly more.
  4. Funny I heard this story from a couple of very experience shooters in the past and will now reiterate it as it applies to me too. When I needed to buy a rifle with my own money to improve my game I purchased a JP, and that rifle took me to the level where I no longer have to pay for a rifle. And no JP doesn't give me a rifle to shoot someone else does but that original CTR got me to that point.
  5. Kurt you like that one? I have one in the bin-o-comps and dismissed it after one session, may have to go back and try again. Mine is a 30 cal so I think I tried it on a 300bk.
  6. inertia

    Sp01 shadow SAO ?

    On the TS vs. Shadow SA conversion comments. I have both and for most shooters a well performed conversion on a shadow may actually be preferable. My TSO with the springs I like is well under 2 lbs. and its actually harder to increase the pull than it is to reduce it. My best Shadow conversion is about 2.5lbs. I do NOT recommend buying a SAO factory gun unless its a TS or apparently they are making a factory S2 SAO? But the 75s I have seen SAO are worse than a shadow conversion if you have the right hammer and trigger because you would probably want to replace both if you bought one of those anyway, hope that makes sense.
  7. inertia

    Sp01 shadow SAO ?

    Ha you don't want my pistols, by the time I am done with them they are DONE. I figure by the time the second barrel is shot the frame deserves to be retired so I suggest starting with a nice new one. I do want to do a Shadow 2 SAO but haven't gotten to it because its just so similar to my TSO.
  8. The precision armament EFAB is pretty incredible muzzle device from a balanced performance perspective. Please do not consider that Lantac, what you have there is moderate recoil reduction with extreme concussion. There are more effective brakes available if your willing to take the blast or similar recoil reduction available with significantly less concussion. Please consider taking muzzle brake advice from people who have tried more than the couple they decided to buy. You can find quantitative testing on these things and you can find crazy competitive shooters that have tried more than a dozen themselves.
  9. I have been running the 2A titanium that has the aluminum tail. I also have 2A steel with alu tail and JP both steel and JP ALU. I have setup rifles with some of the others I picked up off prize tables. So far the 2A titanium is in the guns I run in competition. The weight is almost as low as all ALU ones but none of the wear problems I had with the JP aluminum both wearing the inside of my upper and the gas ring wear and needing to add more gas as it aged. My original one has over 10K on it with no need to add more gas yet and no abnormal upper wear. The finish on the carrier itself even looks really good still.
  10. I will say I had this light strike problem and removed the stop, this improved the situation but not 100%. I then trimmed the FP spring a little and that helped as well but I still could get an occasional light hit with some ammo. I stopped trying to sort it and waited for my T&N ignition parts to arrive and see what that would do. Once new hammer, springs, and trigger went in it is now 100%. The question is could I now put the bolt stop back in and it still work perfectly? Not sure since I have decided I like it out.
  11. inertia

    Sp01 shadow SAO ?

    I have two shadow 1s converted to SAO its a simple drop in the only hard part is the full dis and re-assembly. You take it down, remove trigger and disconnector, put SAO trigger in, reassemble and then set the set screws. If you do a conversion get a trigger with both pre and over travel screws.
  12. Funny I think the T&N trigger was completely fairly priced compared to similar AR designs. It doesn't cost less to develop and build a AR style shotgun trigger why would it cost less than something comparable for that platform? In fact its actually much more expensive in this case since there is a micro fraction of the addressable market for the VR80 that there is for the AR meaning whatever your design and setup cost was is going to be harder to recover. Also news flash an ELF drop in module, if it arrives, is guaranteed to cost more not less than the T&N trigger. I think these guys deserve the business for being willing to take a risk and get the most obviously needed modification for this gun to market so quickly. It is however entertaining to watch people try to be "cheap" about "open" shotguns.
  13. I have my original I changed for another, I have an extra set of the proper screws as well. PM me if your interested.
  14. The tooth and nail trigger uses the jp springs, implying the problem is in the hammer sear disconnect interfaces in the factory unit. The geometry is just bad I looked at it closely. You could wait for someone else to come out with a more expensive drop in trigger?
  15. Mine does it about 1 out of 10 now Tim, Started at 1-5 but I trimmed the fp spring, removed the bolt catch and now its better but not totally gone. Tried lots of ammo types some better than others but none are 100%. Still factory parts, apparently someday I will receive new fire control but I am trying not to get my hopes up since its been about a month. Any ideas? Running your buffer and flat wire which is a really nice feeling combo, at least when it goes bang.
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