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Steve133

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About Steve133

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Houston, TX
  • Real Name
    Eric Prehn

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  1. Steve133

    CZ HIRERCHY

    Pretty much. I'm not going to recap all of the generic ".40 vs. .45" arguments, but in the case of CZs in particular, magazine capacity is a deciding factor. CZ-97 mags only have a capacity of 10 rounds. That's kind of silly, given the size of the frame, but it was designed with an eye for import into the US while the AWB was in force, so it is what it is. A bone-stock TSO in .40 has a capacity of 16, and you can get that up to 19-20 with extensions and low-profile followers. Henning makes Tanfo magazine extensions that will fit a CZ-97 mag, but I think they only get you up to 12 rounds (thoug
  2. I'm sure you've figured this out in your research, but the receiver set is a difficult place to save weight. A lot of the "lightweight" options (the main ones I've looked at are the F1 and Lead Star skeletonized receivers, but there are probably others) start with a big, chunky billet; even after cutting away a bunch of material, you still wind up with something that's heavier than a standard forged set. V7 has been mentioned, and their receivers are actually a little lighter than mil-spec; 2A Armament also makes a lightweight receiver set that's actually lightweight. However, in b
  3. Not much you can do to reduce the circumference of the grip, but a stock with a shorter length of pull will probably help with that issue as well. If you don't want to fool with cutting/sanding the factory stock, you can get the shorter stock that Stoeger includes on their "compact" models for ~$60.
  4. Another recommendation for the DSPerman springs. I was prompted to look into stronger detent springs when I picked up a stage DQ in a 3 gun match due to the safety on my pistol disengaging after I put it in a dump bucket - after installing one of the DSPerman springs, there was a noticeable difference in how securely the safety stays in either position. I've had good luck using in them in an SP01, TSO, and a Czechmate. I tend to buy 5-10 of them every time I need one, just in case Scott retires or something....
  5. If budget is your primary concern, I think that one of the various flavors of the Stoeger M3k will be the best bet - from what I've been able to tell, they're about the cheapest option that will run well. Granted, that might be some personal bias talking, since I've got some personal experience with them; I think I might have a rosier view of the price/performance ratio than some people might, but I also think it's pretty safe to state that objectively speaking, they're about the cheapest that you can go without getting into some major performance issues. I've also heard some very
  6. I've already seen a few Timmies posting on stuff on social media with their new STIs Staccatos along with words to the effect of "I never liked 2011s before, because they were gamer guns, and I'm not a gamer, but these new ones are WAY more tactical, so they're awesome!" Much eye-rolling ensued. But that does mean that the rebranding/refocusing/whatever is getting at least some traction. I guess they're trying to posture themselves as the high-end tactical/duty option, not unlike the market segment that HK has filled for a while. Or at least, like HK without any major government co
  7. I can't think of a reason why durability would be impacted by finishing machining. If you're checking for one of the standard forging marks, then they should all be made from the same alloy with the same forging process. The only difference between the forged uppers being offered by different vendors is the final machining and anodizing, which can impact reliability. Most companies will produce a final product that works fine, but a few of the bottom-of-the-barrel outfits can turn out something with machining or coating that's far enough out of spec to interfere with proper functioning, but th
  8. I don't think that there are too many "gotchas" aside from being generally unwieldy and cumbersome. Like you said, you're probably going to have to take any extension off to fit the thing in a case. That said, there's not really much reason to go any longer than the +2. I bought an extension that gave me a total capacity of 9, just because that was division capacity, and immediately realized that it would be useful to be able to load more than that on the clock. I bought a +4 extension to that extension (13 total) so that I could load 4 on the buzzer in a cruiser-ready start. Not o
  9. Exactly the information I was looking for, thanks. I agree that it sounds like there's some general funkiness going on with the geometry of using the stocks on different platforms, but knowing that it can be fixed with shims is a good data point. And that's VERY useful information. Part of why I was hesitant to cut the longer stock off was having to deal with the hassle of adding in some kind of mounting point that an aftermarket grind-to-fit pad could screw into, but using the factory pad simplifies things greatly. Lopping off 7/16" and swapping to the thinner Benelli ge
  10. Apologies if this is already answered elsewhere - I did a search, and found this question asked a couple of times, but couldn't find an answer for the life of me... I recently picked up a Supernova for the remaining matches/rulesets that require a pump gun in Heavy. I didn't quite do all of the research that I'd normally do, because this was kind of a spur-of-the-moment thing (a Gunbroker auction that was running lower than usual that I unexpectedly won). So, now that it's on the way, I have some questions about how to get it set for competition. My arms being a little
  11. Unfortunately, I think you're kind of stuck waiting on a holster. The TSO isn't a terribly common platform outside of the competition community, and even there, the raw numbers aren't terribly high. There aren't many off-the-shelf holsters that will fit. There may be some "universal" holsters out there that will work - the only one I've tried is the Safariland 579, which is a mixed bag. The gun fits in the holster fine, but drawing will almost always press the magazine release against part of the holster, which unseats the mag. So, you're probably stuck buying a custom holster of some sort. Yo
  12. Can you elaborate a bit on what you're seeing? Does "ejecting the first shell" mean problems extracting the spent hull or problems getting the next round out of the tube? If the former, exactly what is happening - a stovepipe-style stoppage where the bolt tries to close on the empty hull, or a complete failure to extract where the spent hull stays in the chamber and you have to manually rack the charging handle to pull it out? I've encountered both.
  13. Except when it isn't. The one time I had an issue with one of these, I started just trying to knock the stock bushing out of a room-temperature slide, then started heating up the front of the slide with a heat gun, escalated to a torch, and finally put the slide with the stock bushing in the freezer overnight, working on the assumption that both the slide and the bushing would contract, and that if I started applying heat to the slide again, it would expand before the stock bushing would. Don't know how big of a role that played, but that's when I finally got the stupid thing out.
  14. I've done this change in 3 different guns (2 TSOs and a Shadow 1). Installing the new bushing is easy (especially if you put it in the freezer overnight before you swap it in), but removing the old bushing can be problematic. In 2 out of my 3 attempts (the Shadow and one of the TSOs), it was super easy... the third was an absolute bear, even with all of the normal hints and tricks like putting the slide in the freezer to contract. Took several different attempts before I finally just started using bigger and bigger hammers until the stupid thing turned loose. Not only did I gouge the heck out
  15. I have a 5-gallon bucket with industrial hoop-side velcro running around the circumference at the top. I keep the outer belt attached to that, and mag pouches, shell caddies, etc. go in the bucket. Bucket sits in the closet when not in use, gets taken out for dry-fire, and rides in my cart during matches. It could probably stand to be more organized... but given that I mostly shoot 3-gun and all that stuff is on ELS mounts and gets swapped around frequently over the course of a match, good organization is probably not going to happen.
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