inertia

Keep in mind that today none of these brakes would be in the top 5 against the most modern designs like hypertap, answer, appolo, new sjc etc. On the same tests. But the consumer wins because these types of tests pushed a lot of innovation in just the last few years. Remember everyone loves their brake (trigger, barrel, scope etc.) if it's the first nice one they have had. But there are a few of us on here who have spent litteral fortunes tying all of it because its fun and we can. That comparative info is what you need.

Anyone have the steel challenge gun yet?

I have successfully cut 2 of these down to fit behind hayes comps. If you don't need that clearance just get the normal one.

This is the correct answer the TF units have correct angle and grip smcoupled up its like a bipod. Very stable. I loan mine out a lot when people see them.

Angled is always more effective. Lots of people like their straight baffle brakes but they haven't objectively tested them against these new designs. I have tried about a dozen I really like the hypertap. Also check out the apa answer it's also very good and comes with the top ports tapped with screws which I love

This is good news. Sounds like he has good trigger control. Consider that someone that shoots 20k rounds a year pulls the trigger pretty quickly < .15 at full speed so things may behave differently.

This will also make a great open multigun pistol. Watching to see how they turn out.

This

I see people buying razor 1-10s mounting them not understanding how much eye relief they need and selling them cheap when they don't like them. Those are the deals to find then buy the correct mount and good to go.

I have tried every legit competition ar trigger and currently have several thousand worth in various rifles. There are a few that are great but which of these will work best is a bit about your preferences. Look hard at the new triggertech diamond single stage. A hyperfire eclipse is also on the short list. The calvin elite is very fast but not appropriate for less experienced shooters, I see intermediate shooters struggle to control it and prevent it from doubling. I keep one in my hoser rifle but it's disconcerting when I go to hard and it gets giggly.

The caliber is a bigger issue than the gun type.

If you put the same level of effort into load development and tuning for an mpx these guys are for the jp they can be very reliable. This requires some understanding why different systems, roller, blowback, gas piston, like different things.

Use a good race holster, retention + almost unlimited flexibility in the configuration of your gun.

A couple things happen here, most common is that the hammer springs are binding in the front corners of the receiver. ELF will suggest stronger springs, that actually makes it worse not better. To ensure 100% reliability I have milled material out of the area where the springs bind on the receiver in all 3 of my guns. They are now perfect with the standard spring. I did also have one situation where the hammer was dragging on the trigger itself but I think that was caused by the way Hayes sets theirs up to reduce overtravel and not getting it tuned quite right. I replaced the safety barrel with the taccom short throw and it was fixed.

2A armament has an absurdly light titanium large frame carrier, makes my JP seem chunky. This is only appropriate if you know what your doing because you need to tune gas carefully and you cant load too hot or you will be popping primers, its so light and moves so fast you just need to make sure its not opening too early but when its right the recoil is pretty comical since it probably weighs much less than a standard ar15 carrier.

Shroud is dead weight for me so I stick with a modified barrel nut that I slotted so I can tighten it from above.

I have the shorter one, more than long enough unless you have very long arms. They add a little weight so no reason to go longer than necessary. In competitive 3 gun I try to keep the handguards completely empty but can't imagine anything having more slots than those things. One important note T&N doesn't really mention and is hard to describe but is a big deal is how the retaining method allows some degree of float to the system which I can say in my experience is really great for slug accuracy.

I have a couple of these handguards and am very happy with them. Solves the heat problems and makes it easier to mount stuff if your in to that sort of thing.

Looking for advice on anyone that has experience with full race holsters for round trigger guard 1911s. Yes I know that's not single stack legal, I shoot multigun. I think this may be a thing in IPSC though. I use a everglades for my 2011 but it's no go for round trigger guard. I see ghost makes one, anyone tried this or another?

Super helpful! Thanks

Any chance you can describe or show what you did to the ejector? I am having issues we believe are ejector related in a different Turkish box fed and looking for ideas.

Check with Robert at in lead we trust for feasabity he will know.

Fair enough but my rattler is the same size as my mpx, more reliable, and can't be that much louder with 220 subs. And is significantly smaller than the smallest ar because it folds.

Yeah I had to do it for my new holosun 512 too. How hard can it be to use the correct dimensions. I am constantly reminded how poorly made these guns are were trying to use for racing. Someone needs to make a quality box fed gun that doesn't need a couple grand of work to be competitive.

Sig rattler in 300 is the answer you seek.