Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ck1

  1. Looks to me like the extractor must be popping off the case rim, then "catching" the empty case when closing, instead of pulling it back with the slide and chucking it... I'd take a look at what's going on with the extractor as far as just examining it, maybe cleaning gunk out of the channel and/or making sure the spring is sitting correctly? You might even just need a new one if it's just not grabbing/holding cases like it should be..? I've never had it happen in a CZ but have had a chipped extractor mess up an otherwise perfectly good Glock...
  2. Kind of... a frame-mounted optic that stays still vs a slide-mounted one is a pretty big advantage IMHO...
  3. Seems weird to just be "any pistol w/ an optic" for Open, and "any pistol w/o optic" for Limited, but OK if that's it?
  4. This is kind of a bummer. Carry Optics guns shouldn't have to go against Open guns if I understand the divisions correctly..? THE PCC IS ALREADY THE OPEN GUN (IMHO). "Cheap Open" is a joke guys Limited might be cool though, less of an arms-race (odd to say with PCC's involved that can have as many gadgets bolted on one desires lol).
  5. I can 2nd the Foxtrot Mike stuff, that got me started and you can still probably get one together for $800 (if you can round up all the parts in these crazy times). You could've put one together for ~$600 this time last year pre-Covid If you're diligent, and a little lucky these days, you can probably score their lower from one of the online places that carry them, and their 16" uppers should be out there too because the mall-ninjas only want the shorty pistol ones... I run a fairly pricey PCC now and dig it, but all BS aside: a Hiperfire in an FM rig is nothing to sneeze at and can get it done.
  6. Damn, I didn't think about the ammo shortage aspect of it... is kind of bad timing if that's what you mean..? Now you've got me dying to know what's wonky about the rules lol..? And FWIW I'm not even asking/talking about this from a competition point of view... I just think it'd be super fun if it's done right, I've shot pistol/PCC in a couple UML matches and shooting the pistol/pcc combo was a blast. I've got the ammo thing covered, but between a tornado and Covid back-to-back, 2020 did all it could to nearly kill off my business, so I've had to deal with that more than any real shooting or practice, rusty doesn't even quantify it, I plain suck right now lol.
  7. I saw the email from USPSA HQ the other day... 2-Gun PCC/Pistol Nationals? WTF? Due to the pandemic I've pretty much been sidelined from matches for the most part... when did this become a thing lol? Sounds fun...
  8. I've been shooting a bunch of Blue's 135gr .356 TC's at 1.115" OAL and they've run perfect and have been lasers for me. In my experience the Blue RN 147gr was a bitch with my S2 and it didn't like them at all, they have a fat ogive (even though they run fine in a STI 9mm 1911 and Glock G17). Before I started rolling my own, I ran a bunch of the 150gr Syntech Action Pistol and that stuff was fine, and that's fairly close to Blue's truncated cone shape (the TC's are more rounded so they actually are probably more forgiving feeding-wise). Previously I'd only shot mostly 124/147/150gr's, back and forth between the 124's and 147/150's a lot... IMHO the 135's are kinda like the "goldilocks" in that they're still super soft-shooting, but the slide feels faster than with 147/150's at the same power factor of ~130pf. I get the "special order profile" .356's just because Blue's "normal" are .355, and since every other coated bullet manufacturer uses .356 as "the standard" I do too lol (and I've heard the .356's may lead up the barrel less...) YMMV. I'm sure the .355's are fine too.
  9. Damn. Sorry if they don't work out for you. Sounds like you can return them if they're a no-go, so that's good at least. I haven't used anything other than the Mec-Gars since I got them and haven't had a single issue at all through ~3000rds (probably more) with them, have never cleaned them. Best 9mm 1911 mags by a long shot for me... compared to ETM's/Metalform's/Dawson's/Tripp's, it's not even close... IDK about them working with that long 1.161 OAL you mentioned (I've only really ran them with my 1.115 "CZ friendly" loads, FMJ factory stuff, and Syntech "Action Pistol"), but they should feed... Hmm... your extractor too tight maybe? Just wondering, what kind of single-stack are you running..? (just trying to glean what they might not jive with?) Maybe they suck for some guns, guess IDK lol. They've run great in my 2 STI Trojan's and my buddy's DW PM9 and Springfield Range Officer so...
  10. Which one's, are they the ones with the basepad that has 8 circles on the bottom for marking them (those are the ones I've been talking about)..? I ask because Mec-Gar has older ones the suck that share the same SKU for some reason...
  11. Holy s**t! Placed a backorder at Graf's for 10,000 Federal Match SPP's on 7/20/20... Got an email, called them, and they're on the way (normal pricing too, no up-charge)! ....Soon to be on the auction site for $1,000,000 + one's first born !
  12. Yeah, that's a lot of cheddar for what I'd consider just an okish trigger, one can get better than that with almost any decent stock parts just by tuning the sear spring and maybe swapping to a 17lb mainspring... Just need some time to take the gun apart a few times and do the right checks, nothing to buy really. A ~2lb trigger is pretty easy by tuning the sear spring with any quality tool steel fire control, no sanding/stoning needed if the hammer-hooks and sear nose fit ok. Atlas and a few others have some good videos out there that go over 1911 safety checks that can be helpful if one doesn't already know them.
  13. Yeah, in a lot of ways the XL750 is probably the "goldilocks" machine. Adding an MBF, one doesn't give up much at all for making pistol ammo even against the others, and is just fine until one has a reason and/or the money to move up to an Evo. I agree that the 1100 is in a weird spot, it just doesn't have enough real stations for what it costs IMO, and swaging is only really a big deal with certain calibers. As an 750 owner making 9mm, I just try to avoid picking up mil-crimped brass if I can, or just quickly go through my brass (it's not that bad) if I'm going to get ready to pump out a bunch of rounds and don't want to be interrupted, and not having swaging hasn't really been an issue (in fact 9 out of 10 times the 750 will prime mil-crimped brass just fine when I miss them). But, I don't really consider the XL750 a $650 machine either, that's a little misleading as 99% of guys going for a 750 absolutely need the case feeder (+$300ish), so really it's more like $1000. With how fast things add up in this sport, I don't see it as a huge stretch for one to save up longer and/or talk themselves into a couple more grand lol.
  14. IMHO I think it's an expensive gimmick for guys who've heard tall tales or read too much forum-nonsense about bad 1911 trigger jobs lol. Most any drop-in kit will do if your 1911 came with not so great fire control parts stock. None of the operation is that tricky and most people should become familiar with the 1911's parts anyways if they're really going to run one. Installing a good hammer, sear, disconnector, and playing with the sear spring is usually all it takes, with the hardest part being tearing down/reassembling the gun a bunch of times while "tuning" the sear spring being the hardest part. Most of even the middle of the road parts out there are so good now that there's not much stoning/polishing that has to be done most of the time. Just don't stone anything until you've truly figured out what you're up to; if you decide to wade into that water, and start stoning things before you really have your head wrapped around what you're doing, the water can get deep pretty quick lol.
  15. I think it's probably a really strange time for guys to get into reloading with all the component shortages and stuff, backorder on all kinds of things including presses, etc. I'm lucky that I kind of got into it right before everything got too difficult... If I could do everything over again, for pistol rounds and for maybe investing in different toolhead/caliber conversions, I would have just started with a manual Mark7 Evo with Mr. Bullet Feeder (MBF), buy once cry once. For progressive presses it's about as good as is available on the planet right now, and it doesn't cost much more than the next rung down (RL1100), or two rungs down (XL750/650), even though it does more and is a more evolved/sophisticated piece of kit. It was literally designed from the jump to be automated down the road if one wishes. I have an XL750 with case feeder and MBF and it's honestly been enough for me for making a boatload of high quality 9mm... but then I had to go and get into precision rifles, and now I've got a single-stage setup too just for my precision rifle stuff (usually just batches of 100rds, sometimes 200)... which was the right move for me instead of going with different toolheads/caliber conversions for my Dillon. And in many ways, 2 presses can be better than 1 depending on what you want to accomplish. Thing is, while ~$3k seems like a lot for a press, once you consider that shooting is an expensive hobby no matter which way you cut it, and in a way the guns and/or presses are the cheap part compared to components and other "consumable" costs... and everything is relative, in the rifle world scopes can cost ~$3k easy, support bags are ~$100, a USPSA belt can be hundreds of bucks... 3 stacks for the best press out there is actually kind of a bargain looking at it from that point of view. If one plans to load high-volume or bulk .223/5.56 you absolutely need swaging on the press, if you're going to pay for a press that has swaging, it's the Dillon or the Mark7, and side by side, even costing $1k more the Mark7 isn't the one that's overpriced IMHO. I don't think the learning curve is as steep as some make it out to be with progressive presses, especially in the era of youtube and having this forum as a resource. Get as much press as you can afford, just go slow and be safe while you learn the ropes.
  16. From what I've seen: No. Having the spacer at the back of the mag tube seems to let the rounds often slide forward, often to where the noses of the bullets contact/hang on the front of the tubes... just one of the ways to get to nose-dive city lol. Also, with the rounds waiting right up against the feed ramp: the fresh round only has an instant to pop out of the mag perfectly, hopefully with its rim sliding up the breech face and under the extractor, and then chamber at a steep angle, not much tolerance there. And ramped-barrel or not, most 9mm 1911 feed ramps are still steep and it's not uncommon for bullets to jam into them like a brick wall instead of actually feeding, and guns with tight extractors jamming rounds into the hood of the chamber is also pretty common. I feel like with the rounds waiting at the rear of the tube (like any other mag really) the slide just seems to strip the fresh rounds off so much easier, and the whole process just goes smoother. The issues that are common with the other type of mags just seem to go away. Plus, you can load/unload them like normal mags Yeah, Mec-Gar were late to the party, their older 9mm 1911 mags sucked, they don't get to charge $50 like ol' Bill lol.
  17. let us know how it goes? Mine have been flawless... I got 12 of them too lol!
  18. I've shot/shoot tons of Blues through various PCC's, they work great.. but yeah, they're awesome for mucking up your comp lol! I read a trick on here awhile back about spraying case-lube/lanolin all over the comp and letting it dry between cleanings, and it does help... but only helps tho, cleaning the comp out is still not the funnest thing ever lol.
  19. Exactly the same idea as those old Springfield 9-rounders, and they always seemed to work for everybody! Like you said, the only problem with those was capacity (9rds vs 10rds), and also their springs would go south pretty quick (after a while they wouldn't lock-back on empty). I used to run those back in the day before the rules changes when it used to be an advantage in IDPA to use 9-rounders over 10's sometimes depending on the match (since round-dumping is legal now there's no reason not to roll with 10's)... they always ran way better than any of the 10-rounders with the spacers in the back.
  20. Yeah, calling them "crap" is little strong for sure lol! The thing is though, after running/fighting with the 9mm 1911 mags with the spacers in the back for so many years, even when I had ones that were 99.9%, the Mec-Gars are like a revelation... The spacers being in the back of the tubes like in ETM's or whatever presents the rounds to the chamber at a really steep angle, and right at the end of the stroke of the slide coming back (so zero room for things to go anything other than perfect): if anything is wonky at all with the rounds, or one's extractor isn't tuned just right, rounds can jam into the ramp or even into the top of the chamber (because the feed angle is so severe) - with the "spacer" being in the front of the mag tube (like with the Mec-Gar's) the slide strips off the rounds earlier and the feed angle of the round to the chamber is much shallower, really runs A LOT more smoothly... I think the easier loading/unloading is just bonus side-effect because with the rounds sitting at the backs of the tubes they don't require such a stout spring. It's crazy how "clunky" the ETM's/Metalforms/Dawsons/etc run compared to the newer Mac-Gar's if you play with them back to back. The Mec-Gars come apart easily for cleaning and such and the base-pad is pretty good, it's plastic though, a bunch of drops onto concrete like at indoor matches will eventually take a toll.
  21. I've run pretty much every different brand/type of 9mm 1911 magazine out there... IMO the newer/newest Mec-Gar 9mm 1911 mags with the rib running down the front are the best ones ever made thus far. Be careful though, because Mec-Gar decided to use the same SKU for the new ones as their old ones (which are trash). All the 9mm 1911 mags with the spacer in the back of the mag tube (Wilson, Metalform, Dawson, etc) are crap compared to the new Mec-Gar's. Having the spacer in the rear of the tube is a terrible design choice, but they're a lot cheaper to manufacture, so that's probably why there are so many made that way. You can load/unload the Mec-Gar's easily just like any other mag because it's a better design vs just stuffing rounds in and slapping a spacer in the back of the tube. These: https://gregcotellc.com/cart/1911-mecgar-magazines-c-166/mecgar-1911-9mm-10-rd-match-grade-mgcgov910afc-p-1586.html?zenid=p03na9hoh6m7bleumagud9nqf3
  22. I don't think coated bullets + MPX is necessarily always a disaster. I've shot ~10k of blue bullets out of a couple MPX's, ~8k through one gun (that now belongs to a buddy and is still going strong, think he shoots BBI or Galant's, coated something), and another ~2k on one I still own, no issues. Maybe I've been lucky, but the MPX gas system hasn't given me any grief from the coated bullets. That said, some MPX's seem to be finickier than others, as I think I'm an outlier in the world of MPX maintenance and haven't really cleaned mine any more than anything else that gets shot a lot. I've just run them fairly wet and added lube pretty much before every outing, wiped down the bolt and got the easy to get to crud out every 1000rds or so, but no real soup-to-nuts cleanings until at least ~2000rds or whenever the comp has told me it's time lol. I loathe cleaning out the comp, when it gets terrible is when I'll take it on and strip/clean the whole gun. I just keep the bolt wet and the gas end dry and mine have run great. I leave a box of factory FMJ in my bag and usually crack off 2-3 after an outing or every few hundred rounds as I do think it does blow out some of the crap the coated bullets leave behind. But, I do that more for the barrel than the gas system. FWIW, I think one of the main reasons I've seen MPX's get temperamental due to grime is when guys are running them close to minimum power factor; that, plus dirty gun, no bueno.
  23. You can hit the sear-face to eliminate hammer-camming. But, it's not even worth bothering with if you haven't already added a CZC comp hammer or CGW race hammer (you need the different hook geometry the stock hammer's lack) and have gone to a lighter hammer-spring (11.5-13lb). If you can pull very slowly in SA and notice the hammer moving back before releasing, that's hammer-camming. Some hammer-camming is perfectly normal with CZ's; though, a little is better than a lot for a light/crisp SA pull. If it's bad on your gun, you can hit your sear-face with some 600-grit on a hard flat surface and change the angle of the face slightly and get rid of most/all of it, just be careful to not round-off the corners or change it otherwise. You're not removing much material here, ~10 solid pulls across a brand new piece of paper is about all you'd ever need, we're talking thousandths. Puts you in the ~2lb range easy. . There's no need to remove too much material, don't do that. Since it's a sear, and messing with it could be dangerous, you need to test the s**t out of it after to make sure engagement is still solid and the gun is 100% safe, including some live-fire before taking it to a match. You need to make sure the trigger resets, the hammer will not follow and/or fall to half-cock, or do any sort of bad stuff you don't want it to do well before it ever gets near live rounds. CZ sears don't have the reputation of being very hard, be mindful of that. OEM CZ sears aren't expensive to replace if you were to somehow ruin yours, but I don't recommend going so far that you'd ever need one. A spare never hurts to have around, and maybe just trying a different sear might be an improvement in some guns. That said, once you've upgraded the hammer to a CZC/CGW, the change in hook/shelf geometry is usually enough to where it gets you at least a 3lb trigger or better, that usually becomes a ~2lb trigger after a couple/few thousand rounds/dry-fires. Many times there's no reason to touch the sear and it's just better to shoot it a bunch.
  24. Weird... I’ve been getting into long-range bolt guns and the TriggerTech Diamond pretty much owns the market specifically because it goes down so light (ounces not pounds lol)... Maybe they only shoot their PCC’s when they’re waiting on new barrels for their bolt-guns hahaha..?
  25. Since nobody has mentioned it already, with 9mm 1911's it's not always just about what works with your ammo until you've got the gun dialed, the better your gun runs the lighter you can go, but if it runs clunky you might get stuck having to go heavier due to poor feeding... A lot of 9mm 1911's feed like s**t until you tune the extractor (assuming you've found mags that run with your gun), if you end up getting feeding problems once you get down 10lbs or below, it probably means your extractor is too tight and not letting the fresh rounds coming up from the mag slip under it easily. Fix that, and your gun will run slick and you go down as low as you want. FWIW, I run an STI Trojan with 17lb mainspring/hammer-spring and well worn 9lb ISMI recoil spring (it's probably like a 7lb now), no light strikes ever, crisp 2lb trigger with no hammer/sear work at all (just a bunch of trial and error bending of the sear spring until I got it where I wanted).
  • Create New...