kmanick Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 so I put about 450 rounds through this thing so far and # 1 replaced the grips with a set of LOK palm swells got an extended safety for the right hand side (I'm left handed) I just ordered these three parts as well. https://cajungunworks.com/product/hs-13-blue-13-hammer-spring/https://cajungunworks.com/product/ext-fp-extended-firing-pin/ I just want to lower my DA pull and the guys over on the CZ forum said these are the parts. What's the extended firing pin actually give me? I know I need both springs but what does the pin give me? I wa also going to order the 10X bushing but I have not shot it off of a rest yet and out to 50 feet free hand so far this thing has been great. I will re evaluate that need sometime this week. Love the extra width these give me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanniek71 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 If you use a lower weight hammer spring the extended firing pin helps counter act that lessened primer strike power by being a little bit longer. if you are running a 13# hammer spring you probably wouldn’t need the extended firing pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 the lower poundage main spring, 13, will lower the DA pull. you could probably even do the 11.5 pound one if you load on a 1050 and can ensure deeply set primers withe a lower poundage main spring you get a slower hammer. this does not impart as much force (f=ma) into the firing pin. with the lighter firing pin spring you are trying to maximize the inertial energy in the firing pin. the extra length is because of the mechanical properties in how a primer works. you have to "smash" it enough for it to work. the hope is that with a slightly longer firing pin the depth to which it has an effect on the primer is increased. especially on primers that might not be as deeply seated as the gun might otherwise like with stock parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmanick Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 (edited) thanks guys, I bought the extended pin (comes with the spring) so I think I'll just swap out the pin when the parts arrive. Just watching a video on youtube on how to do these , are these really as simple as the vids make em look? by about how much is this going to lower the DA pull? Edited February 5, 2018 by kmanick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanniek71 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Pop back plate, pull the spring and pin, replace with new. Super easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmanick Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 any problems dry firing with the extended pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanniek71 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 any problems dry firing with the extended pin?None I know of I do it daily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmanick Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 any preferred method of pulling that thin steel plate in front of the hammer spring? I see some videos where they pull the top pin, others where they just yank it out? I'm not great with this stuff so I want the easiest but obviously the safest way to do this so I don't mess up anything o my new baby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 11 minutes ago, kmanick said: any preferred method of pulling that thin steel plate in front of the hammer spring? I see some videos where they pull the top pin, others where they just yank it out? I'm not great with this stuff so I want the easiest but obviously the safest way to do this so I don't mess up anything o my new baby Apply pressure to plug and keep it. Remove lower pin. Release pressure. Remove upper pin. Apply pressure to plug. Remove mag brake. Release pressure on plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmanick Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 ok so you do recommend removing upper pin as well. A few of the videows i saw just showed these guys yanking it out. didn't seem like a very good idea to me thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansedgli Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Removing the upper pin makes the job way easier imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 you have to take the top pin out of you want to take out the mag brake (that's what that piece is still called) and you need to take it out if you want to take out the mainspring plug (which also has a pin through it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sliv2 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Rather than starting a new thread, how many of you kept (or, alternatively, dropped) the shock buff? Any issues to report? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheby Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 1 hour ago, Sliv2 said: Rather than starting a new thread, how many of you kept (or, alternatively, dropped) the shock buff? Any issues to report? My practice shadow 2 has 26K rds through. Still has the original buffer. It looks worn but still works fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooke Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 I'm not certain how much I can say about a specific gun smith on the forum so I am being cautious. You'll get the drift if you read previous posts on this thread. Rowdy has been very gracious with helping me get my stock Shadow 2 tuned properly by a knowledgable smith. I have 2 CZC Custom customized Shadow 2's to compare to the new tuned S2. This new gun has a lower DA and SA pull and a shorter reset than the CZC guns. I'm not knocking the older (CZC) guns. I love them. This one is better. Over all it was cheaper and quicker to go with this new smith because there is so much demand at the well known places that do this work. This guy was great to deal with and his work was superb. I chose to change the front sight to a Dawson fiber optic. After shooting the gun one day I could not adjust the POI low enough for my taste. I think we all use our sights a little differently inspite of fairly obvious instruction about how to do so. The Dawson was shorter than the stock front sight so I put the stock back on and will shoot it today. I also ordered a Dawson 0.240 as suggested in this thread. I don't blame the smith for my shooting (which is not the best). All the work performed was fantastically successful, quick, and cheap versus some of the big outfits. My work will go this guy from now on. I am very pleased with the result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 The thin shock buff gets beat up very quickly for me, using an 11lb recoil spring. The thick one seems to last forever. I'll leave it in for a month and then take it out. Seems to just change the feel and timing of the gun ever sooooo slightly. Not enough for me to feel strongly either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 I am a huge advocate of the shockbuffs from CZ, I use the thick ones and they do seem to last forever. I'd have to look through my notes to see when I last changed one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Yeah, I have thick ones that have been used for months with no real apparent wear, just a change in color. The thin ones I've destroyed in a month of "lots" of shooting. My first Shadow2 I got a year ago is at the gun smith right now, but the one I bought a month ago does have the cut out in the frame lugs around the slide stop's pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) I acquired a lightly used S2 five months ago (I usually shoot Open) because I wanted to try something different. When I got it, it was different because of the metal frame. I liked the feel of it and found out it already had some work done by CZC. I changed out the grips for the LOK palm swell Bogies. I thought this was going to increase the reach to the trigger but it didn’t feel like it did. I like the feel of the new grips. I bought all the “improvements” that I have been reading about on the forums. So yesterday I had some time and began to install the “go fast” parts. Started with the fully adjustable rear sight. Upon inspection, I saw the original rear sight was installed from left to right. The original set screws have thread locker on them. One came out easily but the other required some heat. The sight came off easily as I used a sight pusher. The new sight went on with about the same amount of force. I should have removed some material from the bottom of the new sight. I like the sight picture of the full rear blade better than the pyramid shaped one. Next were the recoil and hammer springs. Installed a Wolf 11lb recoil spring after “breaking” the sharp ends with a file. Then the black 11.5lb mainspring from CGW. Saw the hammer strut had already been polished. The change in the mainspring had noticeably reduced the DA pull and changed the SA feel, don’t know if I like that yet. The last change was the extended FP with reduced power spring from CGW. Saw that the gun had a standard length FP but was polished where the spring is. Side by side comparison showed a noticeable increase in length of the extended FP and the reduced power FP spring was thinner than the original. Gonna try test fire and see what happens. I still have to install the 10X bushing, the recurve trigger (reduce the reach) with reduced power trigger return spring. The S2 has got me really interested in shooting Production, even though the front sight is hard to find (I changed to a green FO). The change to green is to make it easier to pickup and to remind me that I’m not shooting Open. Edited February 16, 2018 by HI5-O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanniek71 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 2 minutes ago, HI5-O said: I acquired a lightly used S2 five months ago (I usually shoot Open) because I wanted to try something different. When I got it, it was different because of the metal frame. I liked the feel of it and found out it already had some work done by CZC. I bought all the “improvements” that I have been reading about on the forums. So yesterday I had some time and began to install the “go fast” parts. Started with the fully adjustable rear sight. Upon inspection, I saw the original rear sight was installed from left to right. The original set screws have thread locker on them. One came out easily but the other required some heat. The sight came off easily as I used a sight pusher. The new sight went on with about the same amount of force. I should have removed some material from the bottom of the new sight. I like the sight picture of the full rear blade better than the pyramid shaped one. Next were the recoil and hammer springs. Installed a Wolf 11lb recoil spring after “breaking” the sharp ends with a file. Then the black 11.5lb mainspring from CGW. Saw the hammer strut had already been polished. The change in the mainspring had noticeably reduced the DA pull and changed the SA feel, don’t know if I like that yet. The last change was the extended FP with reduced power spring from CGW. Saw that the gun had a standard length FP but was polished where the spring is. Side by side comparison showed a noticeable increase in length of the extended FP and the reduced power FP spring was thinner than the original. Gonna try test fire and see what happens. I still have to install the 10X bushing, the recurve trigger (reduce the reach) with reduced power trigger return spring. The S2 has got me really interested in shooting Production, even though the front sight is hard to find (I changed to a green FO). The change to green is to make it easier to pickup and to remind me that I’m not shooting Open. Nice write up, what is the recurve trigger? I notice with my 3yo sized hands the trigger is a bit of a reach for me. Could you share a link to it, I’d like to check one out. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 I read about the recurve trigger on the forums. It’s the one Stuart of CZC recommended to use. Part number 10009. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 It doesn’t have an over travel screw but was informed it wouldn’t negatively affect the trigger pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanniek71 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 33 minutes ago, HI5-O said: It doesn’t have an over travel screw but was informed it wouldn’t negatively affect the trigger pull. Thanks, is that from CZC USA? I dont use the overtravel screws anyways so no worries there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 CZ Custom (BE forum vendor) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanniek71 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 CZ Custom (BE forum vendor)Thanks and yeah I know CZ Custom and Stuart well, he’s taken thousands of my dollars LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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