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Brooke

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About Brooke

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    Calls Shots

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  1. Im down to 20K primers and the selves are bare. Every now and then I find a couple of thousand at some out of the way place and buy them.. Even that is getting hard. The 20K will last me 4 months. I don't expect this to improve in four months.
  2. Everybody has a point. To make it simpler...the only die that should be lowered all the way to within a hair of the shell plate is the decapping/sizing die. Do that one first.You want it to size as low as possible without hitting the shell plate. The belling/powder feed die should be adjusted to give a bell of 0.010 to 0.012 greater than the unbelled diameter. The guy who said minimal to get the bullet inside without scraping the exterior of the bullet is right. Over belling does no good and can immediately or over the longer run crack brass lips. The crimp die should be set to give a crimp diameter of 0.78 to o.79. Try to keep all the crimps within 0.77 to 0.80. Not all brass has the same wall thickness so sorting by headstamp is a good idea for consistency. It's not that hard if you don't wait until last minute to load rounds. I'm loading 60-70K rounds per year and I sort brass by headstamp and only keep 6 brands.Sorting by headstamp also improves OAL consistency. I hate the Lee lock nuts but doing as above will let you put them on top. You are better off using the Dillon lock nuts.
  3. I cannot imagine using a 1050 or 1100 without a bullet feeder. It would be like buying buying a car without an engine and planning on pedaling until you could afford one. Makes zero sense. If you're coming up with $2000 you need to come up with $465 more to finish the job. $2500 is peanuts for the press that you will run much more in bullets, primers, brass, and powder through. Its the supplies that cost the most. Case in point: Blue Bullets 200 gr by the case are 9.4 cents. Primers approx 3 cents a round, powder maybe 1 cent, and Ill throw brass in a t 1 cent since I collect most of my practice brass but of course lose some of it and all the match brass. So so 14 to 14.4 cents a round. Lets use 14. I load about 60000 rounds a year or $ 8400 a year in direct ammo expense. Add to that the cost of replacement parts for the press, upgrades, and whatever else and you can see that over time the press becomes the least of your expenses. Its the stuff you continually run through it. Maybe you don't run 60000 a year. Then maybe you don't need a a 1050 or 1100. A 750 might be the best bet. Im not being ass but shooting is expensive. In addition to the direct ammo costs are match, travel, and transportation fees. Maybe shooting club dues or daily fees to use a range. A $465 bullet feeder is trivial in the overall cost of shooting. I have no idea what kind of gun you're using but even a Glock is more than a bullet feeder. If you plan on being serious in CO, Limited. SS, or Open your gun could cost 4 times the cost of the press. Even shooting Production the gun will cost 1/3 to 1 times the press cost and that's when you're being frugal. None of us is frugal when it comes to the gun. We might start that way but we won't finish that way. Get the press that suits your needs with a bullet feeder which is a necessary part. Don't buy more press than you'll ever use for anything but bragging about what you have.If that's your attitude I hate to tell you what your gun is going to eventually cost.
  4. Whatever you can get. There are no choices right now
  5. Is this really serious? Good Lord
  6. Lord. Hope nothing bad ever happens to you.
  7. Not sure what gun you're using this with but at that OAL I'm betting a 1911/2011. The question was what load for minor and I'm assuming that means something in the low 130's PF. 4.0 grains of Sport Pistol with a 200 grain coated bullet shot from something close to a 5-inch barrel at 1.180 OAL should give a PF of approximately 165. So it's not reliably major or minor but it certainly misses the point of the question which was what load for minor. I doubt the OP wanted to know how to shoot minor at 164.
  8. Good luck on 30-60. Im going on 90 and when I asked got a highly ambiguous reply.. Would not have ordered had I known.
  9. GX holsters are awesome. Nothing else in Kydex is close.
  10. I love this. Freaking daydream. Get real. Talk is cheap. Doing the things you're talking nonsense about takes more than wishing or praying. You can dry fire and live fire fire 24 hurst's a day but the kind of success you're talking about requires strength, youth, physical condition, foot speed, excellent eye sight, and Lord knows how many other physical attributes. Not everyone has those. Not their fault just real limitations and those are serious when you talk about the kind of success you describe. Ambition is great but goals need to be incremental as one progresses. Good luck. Oh yeah I forgot. It takes money, money and more money to reach these levels.
  11. Lots of people want to try out the larger mag limits but don't have a 40 and don't want to spring for one right off.Carry Optics is not a simple replacement for them because in many cases it means milling a slide and investing in an optic. Optics for slide ride are awful I went through two DPP Pros and a RTS2 in three months on a milled Shadow and quit CO forever. I was stuck with a milled slide that I eventually gave away. Some people hate dots and don't feel its really shooting Limited minor is a losers game. You start at something like a 20% disadvantage to major.. IMHO is if USPSA split Limited minor and major into two divisions Production would soon disappear. Anyway I can tell you there is nothing like shooting a 2011 custom gun. They are usually expensive but who the hell cares. They are fun fun fun. Go there and never come back to a mundane platform again.
  12. I have seen them all. Two things I do are USPSA and bass fishing. Both sports are really fun and competitive but draw a very diverse crowd. Differences in political opinions, socio-economic situations, education levels, and most of all treatment of others and religion . I've found that keeping all my opinions to myself minimizes issues. It's hard sometimes when some nutcase is spouting what to me is nonsense but I figure everyone deserves a right to show their ass and it helps me to just let them dig a hole. Figure out who you like and stick with them as much as you can. These sports are fun. Not all the participants are. I think that's true no matter what you do.
  13. Depends...I have an old RL1050. I never had an issue with the cam bolt until I removed the ratchet (due to putting on Mark 7). I broke the existing cam bolt and 3 more before I realized I needed to put washers under the bolt to compensate for the ratchet spacing. During that same period I bent 3 slide actuators. Believe me if you bend one get a new one. You can't return it to its original contours and it won't work anymore. I think we should stop and think why such a simple part is prone too breakage. Dillon is known to provide some "shear pins" in their equipment. Parts that break before even more extensive damage or safety issues occur. I'm going to interested in seeing how Dillon accommodates the AmmoBot with the ratchet removal for example. Things like a 100 primer feed tube and a shielded tube with a weak inside tube and a steel protective outer shield. Any primer ignition ruptures the inner tube to release pressure and vents the pressure upwards away from the operator. It works I can attest to. So is there a reason either safety or damage mitigation that causes Dillon to use the existing cam bolt. IDK
  14. One thing about this part guys. It is a piece of garbage. I finally bought 10 so I would have spares. The biggest weakness is the thin wall where it's hollowed out for the Allen wrench. If you remove the ratchet, place some washers between the part and the structure it screws into. Failing to do that means the guide rides on the hollowed out section which will break it. You have to compensate for the thickness of the ratchet or you are doomed. Should this fragile part be better....hell yeah it should. My only fear with the McMaster stud is that it has no means to tighten it up without marring the surface which is likely an issue.
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