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223 ammo: steel case vs brass case


brytec

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I wouldn't think it would be harder on your rifle than a brass case. Here are some articles...

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2014/08/28/debunking-myth-steel-harder-brass/

http://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/shooting-steel-cased-ammunition-in-your-ar-15/

The main difference is that you don't reload the Tula steel case. It may also be a berdan primed case.

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Steel cases can rust. I had some lacquered 223 during a training class that had a lot of rain. Couple of days later my unused ammo was rusted up. Not sure how the new plasticy coating Tulas would do.

Also current steel cased Tula/Wolf has a magnetic bullet. All the local public ranges around me don't allow them. If you use them at a 3 gun match they may DQ you for using them. 2 out of the 3 local 3 gun matches around me don't allow magnetic bullets. SMM3G DQ's shooters with magnetic bullets.

I don't think the coated steel cases are going to be hurtful to your chamber. But I personally would argue that the steel cases are harder on your extractor than brass. My personal experience with them is that my extractors would break sooner if I used steel cased ammo exclusively rather than brass cases exclusively. But extractors are relatively cheap.

I have an upper set aside for use with Tula/Wolf. Won't use them in my JP or any other upper that I would use for a "big" match.

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My experience was fine till I hit the 2.5k round mark, then the lacquer built up enough in my chamber that I started regularly getting stuck cases. A chamber brush wouldn't remove it, I had to scrape it out with a pick. It ran fine for another 500 rounds then started sticking again. I gave up on it after that. And it would occasionally short stroke.

Edited by TonytheTiger
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The cases are bad enough with extended use that the lacquer will build up, but more damaging is the bi-metal bullets. Front Sight magazine published a article that described the bullet after firing. The bullet had a scan done on it and the metal bullets rifling marks shown through on the scan, not what you would want in your accurate barrels. Blaster barrels are a different breed and can be replaced without a lot of cost.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Higher end rifles seem to have more problems with steel case. My buddy is on 5-6 know no problem factory stag. Me Noveske about 900-1200k rim ripping off. So I had 5.45 upper built. 4k run like a sewing machine.

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Some of the steel cased ammo has bullets that are bi-metal jackets. None of the ranges I know will allow them to be shot on steel and those bullets will wear a barrel faster than a normal FMJ bullet.

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steel bullets will wear a barrel faster than a normal FMJ bullet.

No experience, but I read here on BE few years ago that one of our

three rifle gurus felt the same way - recommended NOT using steel

bullets in a fine rifle. The cost savings will be eaten up by

replacing the barrel. :cheers:

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It is difficult to say as I have used thousands of rounds of Hornady steel match and my rifle upon inspection still has original factory tolerances.

However, it is correct that on match grade chambers, the Tula or Wolf steel ammo were causing malfunctions.

I also don't like how the cheap steel cased ammo has difficult time being stripped off the magazine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's not the steel case that eats a barrel it's the bi-metal jacketed bullet. The hornady steel match ammo has a copper jacketed lead bullet, big difference.

Steel case wears the extractor faster than brass. That said, my rifle loved Steel Match ammo. I would love to see it at my local gun shop again, as I prefer to support them versus big chain stores. And I'd rather shoot this at a match than brass cased as I hate losing brass, especially Lake City brass.

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If hornady steel match is .42 a round why choose that over brass case that you can get cheaper?

For some of us, the $0.42 per round version IS cheaper than what we would otherwise run. My rifle is dialed out to 500 yards for brass cased Hornady 75gr BTHP Match ammo, but I hate paying $1.00 a round for it only to lose the brass on a long-range stage in a match. I have boxes of the same 75gr BTHP load in their Steel Match line that I run in competition. Exact same result out to 500 yards for half the price. I save the other for training, when I have the opportunity to find my brass.

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If hornady steel match is .42 a round why choose that over brass case that you can get cheaper?

For some of us, the $0.42 per round version IS cheaper than what we would otherwise run. My rifle is dialed out to 500 yards for brass cased Hornady 75gr BTHP Match ammo, but I hate paying $1.00 a round for it only to lose the brass on a long-range stage in a match. I have boxes of the same 75gr BTHP load in their Steel Match line that I run in competition. Exact same result out to 500 yards for half the price. I save the other for training, when I have the opportunity to find my brass.

Oh I get that concept completely. I think you missed the point though. What makes that your round of choice in the .42 range as opposed to something brass?

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If hornady steel match is .42 a round why choose that over brass case that you can get cheaper?

For some of us, the $0.42 per round version IS cheaper than what we would otherwise run. My rifle is dialed out to 500 yards for brass cased Hornady 75gr BTHP Match ammo, but I hate paying $1.00 a round for it only to lose the brass on a long-range stage in a match. I have boxes of the same 75gr BTHP load in their Steel Match line that I run in competition. Exact same result out to 500 yards for half the price. I save the other for training, when I have the opportunity to find my brass.

Oh I get that concept completely. I think you missed the point though. What makes that your round of choice in the .42 range as opposed to something brass?

Other than it matching my brass load that matches Burris Tac 30 BDC perfectly? I have a pile of it that I didn't pay $0.42 a round for...

:ph34r:

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