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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

BlueOvalBandit

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Everything posted by BlueOvalBandit

  1. It's Yugo ammo. Factory code 11 = Prvi Partisan, 1952 If it were factory code 12 it would be Igman. Good resource for mystery headstamps. https://afte.org/resources/headstamp-guide This used to be my fun day job with forensics. Based on Yugo ammo history, it's corrosive and berdan primed.
  2. Midway has them for $999.99 and you can stack another 10% off (basically covers my sales tax) with RELOADING080823 shell plate and press came to $1074 after tax for me, I bit the bullet.
  3. For me the Lyman M-die has been the best between Lee and Hornady when loading lead bullets. I never had problems with brass getting stuck, it's always been as smooth in and out like other dies. However, I did have the tip unthread itself one time. In my progressive press it gradually unthreaded itself increasing the flare/expansion on the brass to the point it would be over expanded so much a part of the brass would crease and form a lip when seating and crimping. It drove me nuts adjusting the die until it ran out of threads and just fell out. Red loctited that sucker in there and it hasn't moved since. To me it sounds like something was wrong with the tip. Have you called Lyman direct? If they can't help polishing like suggested might be the next best route. Try green rouge compound for polishing.
  4. Yes, I always use one shot. The root of the extra effort stems from the dies and how they work. There is essentially a piece of high density rubber that acts as a spring in both the sizing die and expander to "push" the case out of the die. The actual force required to size the cases without the spring is just a little more than brass, it's overcoming the "spring" that requires the extra oomph.
  5. Been using them for 6 months or so. While I don't load 9 major, I did drop 4.6 gr of WSF under a 147gr which had some extra pop. dies are well made, but dues take some extra ooomph to cycle the press. I'd still buy more and I'd be down for more caliber options.
  6. Depends on if you're married or want to continue to be married
  7. I can't see why it would be illegal. She can shoot production if she'd like too From the production rules
  8. Just a thought, I don't have experience with Savages new AR lines but check the polymer tip for damage after chambering. I'd cycle a couple through by manually locking the bolt to the rear then hitting the release next time at the range. If the tips are getting jacked then that would be your answer.
  9. Have you ever looked down the barrel of your other savages? Mine all look like train tracks just like above. Savage rifling is notorious for tool chatter marks, though generally they still shoot well.
  10. I run it in 308 under 168gr Amax or BTHP bullets. Accuracy is decent (around 3/4MOA), not Varget level, but I also haven't done any load development. It seemed a little flashy when I ran it in my 308 AR with an 18" barrel at an indoor range to do sight in. Rifles are definitely easier to clean as another positive, but my shoulder also thinks the recoil is a bit snappier than varget. Overall it seems like a decent option. YMMV but if you're not hunting for loads to make the absolute smallest groups possible it's definitely a viable alternative and generally easy to find on shelves.
  11. I've hand mine a while and ran about 500 LC 7.62 cases through it with no problem. Makes short work of them, much faster than a bench swage. I'll eventually get around to doing a small hose of something for the "eject" die to just funnel the swaged cases into a bucket or can.
  12. Ditto... I think the NROI should issue a ruling as there seems to be a contradiction.... Not that I care either, I don't even own a PCC, but I don't see how you can get around 5.2.4 given that 5.1.12 says all handgun rules apply.
  13. What Peter is trying to say is with excessive head space when the primer is struck the First thing that happens due to excessive head space is the primer blows rearward toward the bolt face out of the brass. Then as pressure rises the brass starts expanding and stretching rearward to take up the excessive head space (this is why you get incipient case head separation)it essentially smashes the primer back into the pocket making it very flat like you see. Here is a gif I shamelessly stole illustrating what happens in a rimmed 303 enfield during firing. The concepts are the same the difference is how head space is measure between rimmed, rimless, belted, etc.
  14. Tell me more about this? My only squib ever came about when my powder measure unlocked and got pushed up instead of dropping a charge in one case before I noticed. Now I check it every time I refill the primer tube but if there's a permanent fix I'd be happy! It's basically a 1-1/2" arbor shim (it's very thin, I didn't measure it though) that's split on one end to get over the lugs on the bushing. You can do it the ghetto way like I did before I called Hornady and roll 1/2" piece of masking tape into an "o-ring" and place it under the rubber o-ring. It will crush and take up slack in the bushing like the shim does.
  15. What's your source for this? I can't find anything supporting it. "8.1.4 Unless complying with a Division requirement (see Appendix D), a competitor must not be restricted on the number of rounds to be loaded or reloaded in a handgun. Written stage briefings may only stipulate when the handgun is to be loaded or when mandatory" 5.2.4? During the course of fire, after the start signal, unless stipulated otherwise in the stage procedure, spare ammunition, magazines and/or speed loading devices shall be carried in retention devices attached to the competitor's belt and specifically designed for that purpose. Unless specifically prohibited in the Written Stage Briefing, a competitor may also carry additional magazines or speed loading devices in apparel pocket(s) and retrieve and use them, providing that the location of the apparel pocket does not violate the requirements of Appendix D, Item 12 (subject to the provisions of Rule 6.2.5.1).
  16. It's still out there, Cabela's and Midway have some in-stock http://www.cabelas.com/product/hornady-reg-steel-match-8482-rifle-ammunition/1145660.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dsteel%252Bmatch%26x%3D10%26y%3D6%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%252BProducts&Ntt=steel+match http://www.midwayusa.com/product/927474/hornady-steel-match-ammunition-223-remington-55-grain-hollow-point-steel-case-box-of-50
  17. I'm ready ! reminds me of but seriously to the OP, it's not that hard. Fool around a bit, may not be APEX quality but playing around in the inside is the best way to learn your gun, how it works, and how to fix things.
  18. That's pretty much it, I have received handguns to my FFL mailed straight from individuals (non FFL) using FedEx with no problems.
  19. I couldn't get it to group out of my Beretta with 124gr Bayous to save my life, was like a shotgun. It sure was nice shooting, like shooting a marshmellow gun, but at 3.5gr it didn't reliably cycle my 92 with 12lb recoil and D spring and cratered pretty good (which seems to be more gun than load related). Not sure what I was doing wrong accuracy wise, switched to WSF and it was all good again. Was going to try it with 147s but I decided to save it for 45 after the lackluster performance in my only 9.
  20. I'm using 4.5 gr for pre Hi-tek 125gr Bayous loaded to mag length for a 92 Beretta. I like the feel, no chrono data yet, but pretty accurate and clean too. Really diggin WSF, went on a limb and bought a bunch cause all I had was a boatload of clays I used for 45 and when I got a 9 clays won't shoot to save it's life for me. Edit: My bullets are sized on the large side to 0.358 for my Beretta (barrel slugged 0.357), but they also do really well in my S&W 1911.
  21. WSF is in stock, limit 5 Use promo code 15flat to knock shipping down to $5, excludes hazmat. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting/Reloading/Reloading-Powders-Primers|/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/333152280/Winchesterreg-Smokeless-Ball-Powder/741160.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Freloading-powder-primers-accessories%2F_%2FN-1109591%2F&WT.mc_id=ir92929&WT.tsrc=AFF&rid=10
  22. Over belling in some seating dies causes the lip to hang and fold over in some cases when entering the die. It happened to me using Hornady dies and a Lyman M-die, the expander stem came loose and was progressively loosening and over expanding until it would catch and fold the brass exactly the same way. I think youre over belling belling based on the fact you only have damage on one side of the bullet, rather than shaving all the way around.
  23. I believe this is what you want. http://www.leesaqpet.com/browsecat/aquatic/tubing/thinwall-rigid-tubing/thinwall-rigid-tubing-7-16-x-36-detail Lee 7/16 thin wall rigid tubing. Some aquarium stores have it, runs less than $5 if you can find it in store. It's on Amazon too, but you're going to get ripped in shipping. Shipping is tolerable here, but it is out of stock http://www.petmountain.com/product/aquarium-water-tubing/11442-504991/lees-thinwall-rigid-tubing-clear.html
  24. ^ One of the reasons why I got a comparator and measure off the ogive of a bullet and base OAL off of jump. That and the nose isn't really that consistent of a datum point.
  25. I had that problem on lead, if the bullet didn't seat perfectly square I got an ever so tiny bulge. At the time I had all Hornady dies, YMMV but I added a Lyman M-die in place of the Hornady expander at the recommendation of others and it helped bullets get a straighter start when seating. Problem went away for me with the M-die. If you load lead, I definitely recommend it.
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