Roll Sizing

[tpcdvc]

I hear a lot of people talk about roll sizing for 40. And here is my question. If a round has not been roll sized but has been size checked, Will it function reliably? Also, is there a die that does the roll size function? If not, who makes a roll sizer and where can I get one if I really need one?

Thanks!!!

[Loves2Shoot]

I hear a lot of people talk about roll sizing for 40. And here is my question. If a round has not been roll sized but has been size checked, Will it function reliably? Also, is there a die that does the roll size function? If not, who makes a roll sizer and where can I get one if I really need one?

Thanks!!!

I've shot many tens of thousands of .40 rounds and never needed one.

[Shipster]

Get yourself a Lee Factory Crimp die and you won't have any problems with Glock belly. I have loaded and shot thousands and thousands of Glock brass through my Para without any problems after I got the Lee die.

[rtr]

Bottom line in my experience, roll sizing isn't necessary, but it's nice.

I have a friend that lets me use his rollsizer or rollsizes the brass for me, so I'm lucky.

[Jon Merricks]

A search on case pro or roll sizing will get you a bunch of results. With 40's my egw die worked fine but shooting 9 major the egw die does not always cut it and roll sizing sometimes is a must.

[.40AET]

30k+ of .40 brass and I have not found the need to rollsize either. If someone would do it for me for free, then I would use it. Resizing the brass all of the way down past the bulge from unsupported chambers will get you where you need to be a lot faster. The Lee FCD insures that all of my rounds will pass the chamber checker. Roll sizing is an added step that I have not found the need for.

[wide45]

I won't touch .40 brass that has been rollsized.

If the brass has been blown out that bad, it should be tossed. If it was not that bad, why work it more?

[crovello]

The only reason I don't roll size is the four to five hundred bucks to buy one. If I could buy something for a couple hundred bucks I would do it.

There is a gun shop near me that does a lot of reloading. He roll sizes all his brass. He has it set up with the case feeder from a Dillon 650 dumping into the roll sizer. With that setup it would not take long to size them.

Dave

[uscbigdawg]

Probably not necessary. Especially if you're using the EGW sizing die. However, I do it, love it and it just relieves my anal brain. Probably why I case gauge every round and only use new brass at major matches.

Again....anal....

SPC Richard A. White

C-Co, 232nd Med Bn

3rd PLT (Wolverines)

Fort Sam Houston, TX (a.k.a. Home of the Combat Medic...Hooah!)

[kevin c]

At least with my (SDB) dies, I rarely get a round that won't chamber in my Limcat and Schuemann bbls, even if it is Glocked brass. I think the absolute no go rate is about one in every 500 for Glock brass, and virtually zilch in nonGlocked brass.

Now, that's not to say that I don't gauge my match ammo (BTW, welcome to the A-C club Rich, and I hope you and your buddies are well). I do get a fair # of nongauging rounds with Glocked brass, but it's not the unsized bulge in the case wall that does it, it's that the case rim is burred. I think there may be the occasional Glock extractor that scores the rims just a bit too much. All these case rim burrs still chamber and function fine in my guns, but they hang up in my minimum spec SAAMI case gauge.

So, for me, roll sizing hasn't been needed, because my failure rate on the loaded ammo is very low, and I do screen the rounds by gauging them all.

anal...anal...anal...

[Kenpo Joe]

Call me anal, but a few strokes with a mill file and those cases fit the guage just fine.

[XRe]

Danger, Danger Will Robinson!!!!! A few strokes of a mill file - on a case!?!?!?! I won't call you anal. I'll call you crazy!!! Asking for a blowout.....

[kevin c]

Call me anal, but a few strokes with a mill file and those cases fit the guage just fine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Danger, Danger Will Robinson!!!!! A few strokes of a mill file - on a case!?!?!?! I won't call you anal. I'll call you crazy!!! Asking for a blowout.....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I figure you're talking about the burrs on the rims, not the bulges on the case walls, right? Otherwise, "Danger, Danger, Will Robinson..."

[pmd]

I had a few problems with stuck buldge cases and after the advice from the BE Froums I got an EGW undersized sizing die and a Lee Factory Crimp die and have not had a problem since.

[Kenpo Joe]

Call me anal, but a few strokes with a mill file and those cases fit the guage just fine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Danger, Danger Will Robinson!!!!! A few strokes of a mill file - on a case!?!?!?! I won't call you anal. I'll call you crazy!!! Asking for a blowout.....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I figure you're talking about the burrs on the rims, not the bulges on the case walls, right? Otherwise, "Danger, Danger, Will Robinson..."

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, I was talking about the rim. Sorry I wasn't clearer.

[Mistral404]

I shot Area 2 two years ago, with brass that was not rolled sized. Jamomatic! Not that it would have mattered that much but two stages were blown because of the jams. That night I pulled my barrel out and chamber checked all the rounds. At least 12 out of 500 rounds would not seat.

I have had two very tight chambered barrels in two different guns. I have had all my brass roll sized. It is worth the piece of mind not to have a jam. If you do not have brass that is roll sized, check each one in your barrel.

btw: I also use a Lee FCD, it puts the right amount of crimp on my .40s!!!!!!!!!! Not one problem since using the LFCD and having all my brass roll sized.

[Harmon]

i found that the square deal sizing die sizes my brass enough that the Lee FCD doesnt touch the case...except for the crimp.

its gotta be what they would call a small base die if you can use a lee/rcbs die as a case gauge!.

roll sized brass just does a bunch of extra brass working..not worth the time or the cost.

[Precision40]

I use a Lee FCD along with a case gage and get maybe 3-5% that won't gage. I think that's acceptable. Ammo that doesn't case gage is still good ammo, it just goes in the practice ammo box. Most people actually chamber-check, but I found out that doesn't always meen it will feed reliably. If you get a round that's tight in the chamber, it's telling you that the round is nearly out of spec. Practice ammo doesn't matter, it's match ammo that you need to case-gage.

If you use a Lee FCD and a case-gage, you won't have ANY ammo related problems, guaranteed.

[Stuck in C]

I reload .40 on a Square Deal B and the SDB dies appear to re-size the cases all the way to the base, unlike the standard Dillon dies for the 550/650/1050. Iv'e never had any fail to chamber. It leaves a very bright ring around the base and a bright mark where the Glock buldge was, telling me the brass may be overworked and shouldn't be reloaded too often or kaboom! So what I do: buy cheap Police once fired glock brass ($12-15 per 1000), resize and load it once and then get rid of it. Its not worth risking a blown gun over. I wouldn't even pick it up off the ground except that I don't like leaving a mess (cleanliness is next to Godliness). I can't see that paying someone to roll size cases makes any financial sense since cops are busy generating cheap .40 brass all over the country.

[kevin c]

I've never owned any press or dies other than the SDB and the propietary dies that came with it, so I can't compare with other dies, Dillon or otherwise. I can say that I have had glocked cases that the SDB resizer didn't get all of the bulge out of - on those I see a distinct ring with an abrupt change in contour where the carbide ring didn't reach. As I said before, most of these rounds chamber just fine, and I haven't had a kaboom with glock brass yet.

That being said, I do believe, roll sized or not, that overly bulged brass of this sort is still going to be more worked hardened, and thus more prone to failure, than brass that hasn't been stressed in the same way. The once fired glocked brass I use only goes through one or two major pf loadings before it gets changed over to practice brass. And since I'm considering using my match load in practice, I may start to retire the brass sooner than that.

[Claudio]

I got myself a Lee factory crimp die and turned a rod that fits in my press. I took out all the insides of the die and when I get OP's brass I push it right through the die. Locally we dont get 40 brass that freely. BTW before you push it through you must lube it first, and I have found the best lube is the Dillon stuff.

[tpcdvc]

Thanks for all the great info guys. It was a great help. BTW, I bought two dies an EGW and a Lee FCD. It seems to be working great!!! When I compare my sized cases using the new dies to a batch of roll sized brass I have, my new brass actually measures a little smaller no matter where I measure it. It really seems to be the answer!!

Thanks again!!

[gino_aki]

I use Lee Carbide 10mm/40 dies and and a Redding taper crimp die in a Hornady Lock-N-Load that I set to resize all the way to the shellplate. Never had any problems with any brass, even Glock fired...I did polish my chamber though, with a felt bob and jeweler's rouge.

[kevin c]

Y'know, I've been having problems w/ Winchester 40 brass having eccentric bulging down in the extractor groove. I haven't used any roll sized brass, nor any brass through a Lee FCD or EGW U-die, but I wonder if using such would help any. The dies might not go down far enough, and because unsized brass is what jams in my press and is what I have to put into the shellplate, might not prevent the headaches I've been having, but roll sized brass might do the trick.

Still, there's the extra expense, and the fact that the brass may still be overworked...

Just thinking out loud... kevin c

[ryan45kim]

I’m sold on the EGW sizing die.

I use all the 40 brass I find so that means range brass and a lot of it was fired through Glocks.

I tried the lee FCD but it did not size the case down far enough to get rid of the “Glock Bulge”.

I also had some cases roll sized and still did not get the entire bulge out.

I tried punch sizing and destroyed that brass (it rolled the rims and closed the extractor grove, not a good thing).

I now have a system that works great (but it is time consuming).

I load on a 650, I have the standard Dillon die in stage 1 it deprimes the case and starts the sizing (I found if I try to just run the EGW die in stage 1 and load I have to wiggle every other case into the die, crush a lot of cases, or they just will not go in).

Stage 2 is empty.

In stage 3 I have my Lee FCD not because it is needed, but I paid money for it so I might as well use it.

In stage 4 I have my EGW die. I set up the press so I can run the die as low as possible, if I put a half turn on the die the press would bottom out on the die, (yes it hits the shell plate but make sure the press is still making a full stroke). I watch this stage the entire time I’m processing the brass and I can catch any cases that look bad are split ECT.

After I process the brass I pull the EGW die out of that tool head and put it into the one set up for loading (I just haven’t gotten around to buying a second EGW die) so I actually run all my brass through the EGW die twice.

Processing my brass this way it mikes out between .418-.422 right above the extractor grove, rounds not chambering are a thing of the past.

Also doing the sizing in steps saves a lot of brass that would get crushed if I just try to shove them strait into the EGW die. I just process 2 five gallon buckets of brass and crushed 4 or 5 pieces.