tpcdvc

I'm in.

Yeah, I was wait listed immediately too. 2756

My app should be there already. :-)

Fantastic match yet again!!!!! Thanks everyone!!!

I think it would be prudent for 818 to send a query to Amidon for an opinion on the HP cut. I think one is as cosmetic as front serrations but that's only my opinion. I didn't see the trough you mention. Were you referring to 818's pics? I only saw a flat top which is allowed (as are tri-tops) and normal serrations. I've seen an actual trough milled into the top of a slide using a ball end mill on limited guns. Regarding the trough, I was thinking of tpcdvc's pics. "Milling of the slide to insert sights, add or remove serrations, such as cocking or flat topping, tri-topping the slide, lower- ing ejection ports, cuts that are minor and cosmetic in nature are permitted. Duplicating features that are on a factory, mass produced slide available to the gen- eral public is permitted. Cuts that are designed to specifically or significantly lighten the slide, such as holes, or slots, are ruled as competitive advantage and prohibited." The ball cuts or "trough cuts" are only .015 deep and did not even register a difference on my postal scale before and after. I think that would be the very definition of "minor and cosmetic". I guess an ignorant RO could try to bump you to open, but that is an arbitration that I would pay for in a second.

It's an Enco with a power feed and DRO. I'm pretty happy with it.

Here is another SS that I am finishing. This one still needs the dust cover cut. The rear cocking serrations are the shooters initials. I'm excited about finishing this one.

Akia custom build?? Looks like his work. No, I built it.

I'm doubting you will get any takers.........

Metaloy. They do great work!!

Just back from hard chrome!

New slide, barrel, ejector etc....

These grips will give you the same index as a 2011. They are grips made by hogue and modified (by me) to the 2011 specs.

Love the Rock!!! Thanks for another great match everyone.

Oh, I misunderstood. I thought you were getting the same issue after getting the top end back from STI, and in addition to that this "new" malf showed up. My bad......

Well, if the grip/mag release isn't sitting too low, and during the malf the round is not touching the extractor yet, then you have 3 areas to look at. The breach face, the edge of the barrel throat, and the top of the chamber. That is of course assuming that the ammo is properly crimped etc... More often than not it is the edge of the barrel throat needing broken more. Check the breach face and make sure there are no burrs or any rough or high spots. Look closely at the top of the chamber it may need polished. Thought of one more thing, it is a long shot but...........are you getting any weird marks on the brass? I have seen this 3 point malf caused by the stripper rail digging into the round underneath and robbing the momentum enough to do this exact malf. Basically had to break and smooth out the stripper rail and that fixed the issue.

I thought of this as well it has the Dawson posi loc mag release in it now. But I wanted to try one thing at a time. (I tuned all the mags but one new tuned Brazos mag) according to the Dawson mag tuning kit. It ran fine with all of those mags. The new tuned Brazos mag had a weird failure never seen this happen before. Any ideas what would cause this type of failure? Thanks! That is a malf that usually comes from a short stroke of some kind, or a mag spring that is weak or a load too light, or too heavy a recoil spring. Basically the slide is trying to go forward before the round is sitting up fully. I have a hard time thinking it is the new Brazos mag..... Have you inspected the grip closely. Is there a crack or a gap somewhere? The two things could easily be related if the grip is not right.

I was the first and original owner. Just sold it to Ssanders224 like a week ago. That gun NEVER had a hammer follow. Not even one that I remember. Very strange indeed.

I don't like how they did the front cocking serrations. Probably not a good idea to make the slide thin at the joint where the rail and the spring tunnel come together. Not sure how deep they are, but maybe that area should be avoided.

Not mine guys.

Probably mine. I just PM'd you. Tim Gotta be one of those TN boys they are always losing something If I wasn't so old, slow, and pathetic I would be upset at that remark.

Probably mine. I just PM'd you. Tim

Canman, It would really help if you take a minute and familiarize yourself with common verbiage for auto pistol malfs. Here is a thread that will help. http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ebb=showflat&Number=51276#Post51276 (1911 malfuctions - photo reference) Your post is still too vague to help much. "Just before it chambered" I think you may be talking about the slide stopping the last 1/4" or so before it is fully closed? If so, that is usually an ammo problem, and since you are not loading very long I will assume the chamber is throated properly for that load. "Failed to catch the next round" That sounds like a bolt over malfunction and is usually the mag spring too light or worn out, or the load is too light or the recoil spring is too heavy for the load. A good general rule of thumb is to start off using known good mags like Wilson, Tripp, CMC power mags etc....... Too often, the mags that come with factory guns will have problems.

Here is a good example of a frame/throat done well (Chuck Rogers photo). The edge of the barrel is just broken slightly. However, it sounds like your main issue is the extractor tension or hook to breach-face clearance (maybe both). If the new one does not have enough clearance, odds are the one you just ordered will not either. You have to modify the extractor so that the hook has the proper distance from the breach-face, sometimes you will need to weld a shim in there too.

Malf looks like too much extractor tension. Also, check to make sure you have enough hook to breach face clearance. You need .070-.080, if below .070 that could cause the malf too. The frame ramp to barrel barrel distance looks to small too. You need a .031 gap between the top of the frame ramp and the start of the barrel.