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kevin c

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    Richmond, California
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    Kevin Chu

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  1. It's great having an accurate, high quality and consistent chrono that you can use to develope and test loads. There's no way of knowing, though, what the match you spend your hard earned dollars and vacation time on is going to use at their chrono bay, and even if you did, it's still a different machine used under different conditions than those at home. Given the above, I'd think it still sensible to give yourself an adequate PF cushion.
  2. As j1b said, there's lots of good advice here, the most pertinent for a newbie to the sport being to stop worrying, just go shoot, be safe, and have fun. That being said, I'll add something that a European champion (Saul Kirsch) teaches. Paraphrasing, it's a game of both accuracy and speed, where the faster you go, the more accuracy you give up. Kirsch points out that you have to have the accuracy in the first place, so that you have something to give up to go faster. So, for me, that means developing accuracy as well as the other skills as you progress. My $.02 ETA: If I haven't already, I'll see you at RRGC.
  3. I'll be 63 at the end of this year. I've been a USPSA member for nearly 26 years. Been shooting Production after starting out in Limited (I can still see the sights despite presbyopia - search for threads about "monovision" correction). I still beat "kids" half my age and commonly finish in the top ten in my division and in the upper third overall in our 120 competitor club matches. I have very slowly but steadily gotten better over time, not worse. And have no doubt that, if my body holds up, I'll continue to improve if I put in the work. I'm convinced my longevity and performance in the sport is due to the fact that I just love shooting action pistol. I like to see improvement, but winning or beating others was never something that was important to me. So, for the OP, if fun is what you want, or the challenge of developing a skill that isn't largely dependent on the strength, speed and reflexes of youth, then go for it.
  4. While I worked it was one practice a week of 250 to 300 rounds, and dry fire two or three times in the same period. Matches (USPSA) two to three times a month. I'm retired now. Practice is three or four times a week, 200 top 300 rounds, very little dry fire. Matches two to four times a month. i hold an A card, have for years. With more practice I have gotten more consistent in matches and classifier scores (though ironically my percentages have dropped because previously I'd have rare good scores mixed in with a zillion low scores that would get thrown out, leaving the anomalous highs in my best six for long times, now most of my scores are within the A range). I'm not so sure that a lot less dry fire is a good thing...
  5. I rhink it was Saul Kirsch who basically commented that you need enough accuracy to get all A's, and then you add speed to your performance that makes you give up some of that accuracy. More speed, more loss of accuracy. Seems like the consensus is to get 90 to 95 percent of the points. D class will do that a lot slower than GM class. Training gets you more speed with the same points. But Kirsch says being able to get those points in the first place is just as important as getting the speed.
  6. It's been a few years, but one of the senior people in NROI told me I shouldn't ask, supposedly because it can be considered a form of interference (I really didn't understand that reasoning, then or now).
  7. Two shots with one sight picture was frowned upon, at least back in the day. It maybe that I'm old fashioned, and unwilling to change, but I like having an adequate sight picture for each shot. That being said, there definitely are things to do with grip and with tuning the gun and load to make it easier to have two quick shots result in two close hits.
  8. Can she wear a 34” gunbelt? If she can, she can borrow mine, since I’m an RO there, also teach the intro course, and am there at Richmond all the time. I’m also on injured reserve and not shooting right now. PM’d with contact information
  9. I've shot Glocks in Production (and occasionally L10) for years. Cheap, reliable (when I don't tinker too much with weird combinations of the myriad aftermarket parts) and more than accurate enough. I doubt that I will ever out shoot what my G34's are capable of (A in Production, edging closer to Master). I honestly feel that most even at Master or GM level can't out shoot a properly tuned Glock, despite what most might think.
  10. So, an update on my experiment described in post # 26, 8/2/16: Of the 500 cases, about three hundred made it to the 20th loading. The rest were lost or were discarded because of case mouth splits (running 5 to 10 percent splits in the last half dozen loadings). I had zero case separations. For me, loading 147 grain polymer coated bullets to minor PF, through factory Glock barrels, the case separation issue simply hasn't happened (though I personally know others who have had it happen). I am not going to worry about it for my guns and loads. Steel cases, though...
  11. I like Jake's advice. I managed to place second Production in our club match this weekend. I beat a Master who was twenty seconds faster than I was through the match (I probably am 25 years older than he is) because he shot 68 % A's versus my 77% A's, plus more misses for him. First place beat me on speed, making up for a lower A count (another young guy). I need to shave a tenth here and there everywhere, and shoot more points at the same time. I do that, I'll be the old fart that kicks butt. ;^D
  12. Couple months ago I was shooting a match on a large private property. The owner's dog wandered down range of one stage, which had a wooded area as part of the backstop in and out of which the animal kept popping. The dog did not want to be corralled either. Probably added a half an hour to my squad's time on the stage until we felt the dog had gone, and we were still worried that it would come back while somebody was shooting.
  13. Occasionally I will wipe down the powder bar with a silicone impregnated cloth. Occasionally I will inspect and tighten the bolts, powder bar actuator arm and the Delrin link cube (I have the old style poser measure on my SDB). Occasionally is once every couple years or so, which is roughly every 30 or 40 K loaded rounds. I've never cleaned the hopper cylinder itself.
  14. I have. As best I can tell, it shoots the same, velocity wise. I have heard a lot of folks being critical of the internally stepped brass. I found one stepped case on my range that came apart and have a friend who had a separation with the brass with a Production load, but I wanted to see myself. So here's my version of a test. I started with 500 IMT cases, all once fired from discards from folks I know at my range that buy factory but don't bother to reload (I wish I had that kind of money...). These got loaded with either my match or current practice load, which is a 147 grain polymer coated 9mm over either N320 or CSB-1. Both loads chrono 132 to 134 PF through my G34's. The loads were segregated for practice drills that were basically stand and shoot, so recovering the brass was fairly easy. Standard dry tumbling to clean. All cases get Case Pro'd each time. Silicone spray used as lube for sizing, with the cases wiped down to remove most of the residue after loading, but still slick to touch. All cases marked for identification. I've been doing this over a few months now and am down to about 350 cases. I am currently shooting the 16th reloading (17 total firings when done). I have had zero case head separations. I have lost a few cases to case mouth splits (I flare rather generously as the bevel bases bullets I use tend to tilt easily), but that's it. I might continue the test, out of either a dogged sense of duty or a morbid curiosity, but, at least for me, I am not going to worry much about the separation issue when shooting my Production loads through my guns. ETA: As far as the brass plated steel cases, I gave up on the S&B because they simply wouldn't prime well for me. If the new FM steel cases size and prime OK, I probably will use them. BTW, are there any distinguishing markings on the steel vs all brass cases, or is magnet sorting the only way of finding these in recovered brass?
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