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kevin c

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    Richmond, California
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    Kevin Chu

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  1. I've shot Glocks in Production (and occasionally L10) for years. Cheap, reliable (when I don't tinker too much with weird combinations of the myriad aftermarket parts) and more than accurate enough. I doubt that I will ever out shoot what my G34's are capable of (A in Production, edging closer to Master). I honestly feel that most even at Master or GM level can't out shoot a properly tuned Glock, despite what most might think.
  2. So, an update on my experiment described in post # 26, 8/2/16: Of the 500 cases, about three hundred made it to the 20th loading. The rest were lost or were discarded because of case mouth splits (running 5 to 10 percent splits in the last half dozen loadings). I had zero case separations. For me, loading 147 grain polymer coated bullets to minor PF, through factory Glock barrels, the case separation issue simply hasn't happened (though I personally know others who have had it happen). I am not going to worry about it for my guns and loads. Steel cases, though...
  3. I like Jake's advice. I managed to place second Production in our club match this weekend. I beat a Master who was twenty seconds faster than I was through the match (I probably am 25 years older than he is) because he shot 68 % A's versus my 77% A's, plus more misses for him. First place beat me on speed, making up for a lower A count (another young guy). I need to shave a tenth here and there everywhere, and shoot more points at the same time. I do that, I'll be the old fart that kicks butt. ;^D
  4. Couple months ago I was shooting a match on a large private property. The owner's dog wandered down range of one stage, which had a wooded area as part of the backstop in and out of which the animal kept popping. The dog did not want to be corralled either. Probably added a half an hour to my squad's time on the stage until we felt the dog had gone, and we were still worried that it would come back while somebody was shooting.
  5. Occasionally I will wipe down the powder bar with a silicone impregnated cloth. Occasionally I will inspect and tighten the bolts, powder bar actuator arm and the Delrin link cube (I have the old style poser measure on my SDB). Occasionally is once every couple years or so, which is roughly every 30 or 40 K loaded rounds. I've never cleaned the hopper cylinder itself.
  6. I have. As best I can tell, it shoots the same, velocity wise. I have heard a lot of folks being critical of the internally stepped brass. I found one stepped case on my range that came apart and have a friend who had a separation with the brass with a Production load, but I wanted to see myself. So here's my version of a test. I started with 500 IMT cases, all once fired from discards from folks I know at my range that buy factory but don't bother to reload (I wish I had that kind of money...). These got loaded with either my match or current practice load, which is a 147 grain polymer coated 9mm over either N320 or CSB-1. Both loads chrono 132 to 134 PF through my G34's. The loads were segregated for practice drills that were basically stand and shoot, so recovering the brass was fairly easy. Standard dry tumbling to clean. All cases get Case Pro'd each time. Silicone spray used as lube for sizing, with the cases wiped down to remove most of the residue after loading, but still slick to touch. All cases marked for identification. I've been doing this over a few months now and am down to about 350 cases. I am currently shooting the 16th reloading (17 total firings when done). I have had zero case head separations. I have lost a few cases to case mouth splits (I flare rather generously as the bevel bases bullets I use tend to tilt easily), but that's it. I might continue the test, out of either a dogged sense of duty or a morbid curiosity, but, at least for me, I am not going to worry much about the separation issue when shooting my Production loads through my guns. ETA: As far as the brass plated steel cases, I gave up on the S&B because they simply wouldn't prime well for me. If the new FM steel cases size and prime OK, I probably will use them. BTW, are there any distinguishing markings on the steel vs all brass cases, or is magnet sorting the only way of finding these in recovered brass?
  7. If you dislike not being able to see into your measure because of powder staining on the interior wall, the next time you get a new body/measure, line it with a piece of clear plastic document cover. You can notch the bottom to cover the area below the baffle. I'd expected, when I did this, that the plastic would be sacrificial, eventually stained and then to be removed and replaced. But at least the one I started with hasn't discolored at all in the time I've used it (18 months). Different plastic than the measure, I guess.
  8. Zep PAR silicone spray works great as a lube. I put a couple or three one second squirts into a gallon zip lok bag, toss in a couple hundred 9mm cases and shake. The rounds are slick to the touch, and unlike the One Shot I used to use it doesn't get sticky if I leave it on. To reduce the slipperiness and the chance of grit and dust adhering to the cases I will dump a couple hundred loaded rounds on a towel for a quick rub down before storage.
  9. Started in Limited, now been in Production for the past few years. I'm having more fun shooting my Glocks than I did shooting the Para's, while spending less money and not worrying at all about getting the latest or greatest model or modification to stay competitive.
  10. Seanc: Any more specific info on that solution, what it was/what it was used for?
  11. kevin c


    no comments otherwise. **Closed**
  12. The major PF 200 grain loads for 40 S&W were originally, IIRC, all long loads at about 1.200" COAL. They run fine at that length in 1911/2011 pattern guns, albeit still at high pressure as shown by flattened primers. Pressure will be WAY up loaded to 1.135", even 1.155" (around the max I think that most Glock mags will handle). My first year I loaded a 200 grain load to SAAMI spec 1.135" and promptly blew up a gun (a Taurus) on the fourth shot. The brass recovered on the first three shots all showed near blow outs near the case rim where the chamber did not fully support the case. Older version Glocks in .40 are already notorious for bulging the base of even factory/commercial rounds (the Glock Bulge or "guppy bellied" brass). You shoot a load using a nonstandard recipe with a much shorter than recommended COAL and you will likely hurt yourself or the gun or both. Please go down to 180, or shoot the 200's in a gun that will take the longer COAL's.
  13. I've been told that one reason new brass tends to stick in the powder/flare die is that there isn't much lubricity between the steel die and the clean brass (galling, I think it's called). Fired brass usually has a coating of carbon and/or other firing residue coating the interior that acts as a lubricant. Pin cleaned brass might be so clean that the effect is lost. If you add enough lube maybe some of it ends up on the case mouth or on the powder die so it gets around the problem. I'd never thought about peening from the pins causing the case to harden - would that lead to more case mouth splits? Anybody seen that?
  14. A one quart freezer bag from Glad Bag will just close with 500 9mm cases. A small USPS Priority Mail shipping box will comfortably hold 3000 9mm cases, barely hold 3500 to 4000 if packed in. A five gallon bucket will just hold ( with the lid secured) 7000 9mm cases.
  15. The timer would tell the total number of shots. Helps some if only the bare minimum of shots required is what is recorded, but not if extra shots were fired on multiple targets, or if the contention is that the minimum number of shots only were fired but the RO called a miss on the target in question but the shooter says it might have gone through a .45 hole. So, does the score stand that the RO says the shot in question was clearly a miss, or do we accept the possibility that the shooter's shot is unscoreable because it might have gone through the .45 hole and therefore a reshoot must be done?
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