Stuck in C

I don't see the rule limiting barrel length to 10.5". Appendix D8 (February 2018) item 1 is "Minimum barrel length: **See special conditions** None. Special conditions are it must be a legal SBR. Where is the rule about barrel length?

My best friend of the last 5 or 6 years packed up and left this morning for a new job and city. We drank gallons of beer and wine together and had long conversations about everything with no filters. Went from seeing each other several times a week to probably several times a year. Hard to admit how much this is affecting me. I hate this and how I am feeling right now.

Never mind, I found the matrix and stages in the in ChuckS's dropbox link above.

I found the stages and squad list, but how about the squad schedule / matrix? is it up somewhere?

My Msa Supreme Pro X just died after about 4 years. I went back to my Dillon's which are 12 years old and still working fine after replacing the ear cups. I'll investigate getting the MSA's repaired since they were so expensive. With the gel cups they were the most comfortable I've ever worn.

Success! Backing out screw 13961b as above about a quarter turn did the trick. Earlier I had also reset the primer cup and punch into the slide. Either or both of these fixed the issue. Now if I could just keep the ejection wire from jumping to the other side of the bolt and jamming the completed case.

Dillon's fix didn't help. Still flipping side ways. The primers drop from the magazine correctly, flat and centered on the punch. It flips them as the primers approach the case. They either drag on the side of the cup mouth or on the shell plate. One thing I see is that the punch isn't centered in the cup.

I called Dillon; they suggested the fix that Ippd4 gave above. Haven't had a chance to try it yet, work got in the way.

Shell plate bolt is tight and all locating pins are there. When I cycled it without cases I pushed the handle all the way forward and the primers stayed flat and perfectly centered on the punch. The shell plate actually looks pretty ragged in spots. I'm not by the press so I can't check the depriving pin. Maybe I'll see if I can get a new shell plate.

My Square Deal B has developed a problem in the last two weeks after reliably loading thousands of rounds of 9 mm. The primers are going in sideways about 20-30% of the time, with the frequency increasing steadily. Small primer system and it has never been switched to large primers. I cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol and checked the primer magazine orifice: it looked fine but I replaced it anyway. No difference, still punching in sideways. With no cases in the shellplate the primers are presented correctly with the primer facing up and the primer is concentric and aligned on top of the punch. I ran 100 primers through the press this way (no cases) and not a single one was misaligned. As soon as i put cases in the shellplate the primers started going in sideways. I can't see anything wrong with the primer punch or cup. Is it possible that there is something wrong with the shellplate that could cause this? I can't determine where in the process the primers are turning sideways, but it seems that they are coming out of the magazine and into the cup correctly. Any ideas?

Actually, it looks like Steve Anderson's books aren't available as Kindle books either.

Unfortunately Steve Anderson's books are not available as Nook books from Barnes and Noble (Ben Stoeger's and Seeklander's are). I know, I should have bought a Kindle. I'd buy his new ones if they were. I have his ancient, original dry fire book in cheap paperback. It was a big help.

I had to trim the TF polymer basepads so the magazine would insert properly without interference from the magwell (I don't know if these are still available). The aluminum CZ Custom basepads fit fine without modification. I do not use shock buffers; there isn't room for one in the IPSC Standard slide. I believe one of the changes between the IPSC Std and Tactical Sports is the slide was modified to allow a shock buff. At least some of the TS's come with one installed. In the failure to feed, the slide fails to strip a round from the magazine. The slide jams partially open with a round caught in the magazine. It doesn't even start to enter the chamber. Many times (but not always) the round is nosedived and jammed against the front of the mag. As I said in the earlier post I have tried combinations of followers and springs from CZ (the originals) Grams, and CZC. It happens with and without the extended basepads installed.

I had a completely different experience with my CZ IPSC Standard (older version of the TS). It won't feed period with either the 16 round IPSC Standard mags or the newer 17 round TS mags (I have 5 of each). Or the same mags with the CZC extended base pads or TF pads. I've tried all kinds of spring and follower combinations (CZ, Grams, CZC) and nothing works. Bullet profile doesn't seem to matter either. The trigger is fantastic and I like the weight. The grip needs the checkering removed. I'm at the point where I either get rid of it cheap since it doesn't run, or send it and the mags to a CZ gunsmith to figure out why it doesn't run and to do the grip. Which will probably make it as expensive as a 2011.

If you go lighter than 13 lbs you may have to use a reduced power striker spring for the gun to reliably go into battery. And then you may have light strikes. I don't know why some combinations work in some guns and not in others. I was unable to go lighter than 13 lbs with my 34 no matter which striker spring I used.

I had the prescription inserts in my Rudy's made with the right (dominant) lens set to focus at the sight distance and the left with my normal distance correction. Worked great for a few years, but now I get a headache and nausea if I wear them for more than an hour or two. The shooting part is still good-front sight sharp and targets clear with both eyes open. I went to the eye doc and no change in prescription. Apparently my aging brain can no longer synchronize the two. I might have them back off on the prescriptions so the lenses are more similar. Or I'll have to go with a different plan entirely.

I just got a Model 41 (long slide .45) and it's ejecting straight back; if I wasn't wearing a hat the brass would hit me dead center in the middle of the forehead. I've been shooting Glocks since 1995 and I've never had one do this before. I hope it stops because its good at inducing a flinch.

I'm right eye dominant and very nearsighted. I had my shooting glasses made with the right lens focused on the front sight at arm's length and the left with my normal distance prescription. This worked great for a long time but for the last several years I get a splitting headache if I wear them for more than a few hours. I just had my eye exam and there was no change in prescription so that wasn't it. Now I switch to them just before I shoot and switch back to normal glasses after I'm done but that's kind of a hassle. I might change to no correction in the right lens-I can still see the sights with no glasses although its not as sharp as with my current system.

I have a Gen3 G34. I replaced the recoil spring with a 13 lbs ISMI and really liked the way it felt. But, I had occasional failures to go into battery, so I replaced the factory striker spring with a reduced power one. It went into battery 100%, but now I had occasional light strikes. So I went with a 15 lbs recoil spring and factory striker. Works 100%, but I definitly liked the feel of the 13 lbs better. Most of the shooters I know use the 13 lbs spring; I don't know why mine wouldn't work.

Nook Glowlight does not have an SD card slot, so how would you root one?

My family has a couple of (unrooted) Nooks we use as e-readers. We had constant problems connecting to our home network Wi-Fi to download ebooks from B&N. Sometimes it would work, many times not. They would connect and then drop, or be unable to connect at all. When they dropped you had to turn off both the Nook and the router to have any chance of re-connecting. And by the way, it seems they tried to re-connect maybe every 30 secs or so. I never had any problems with any other wireless devices. We usually went to the local B&N and connected there where it always worked to download books. Last year I replaced the router and now the Nooks work great, even though the newer router is the same brand and is supposedly using the same protocols. So who knows, Nooks are touchy.

A friend of mine bought an old beat up rifle at a garage sale to use the action for a project. He tossed the stock and barrel (both in bad shape). It had an ancient Leupold scope on it that looked like it had been used to pound tent stakes. Just for the heck of it he sent it in to Leupold to see what they said. Six weeks later he got it back completely rebuilt. Still not very pretty but it works perfectly and sits on his hunting rifle.

Only problem with billet lowers is that any idiot with a chunk of aluminum and a CNC machine can make one. I bought one that was a thing of beauty but not quite dimensionally correct. I gave up trying to make it work and it now hangs on the wall as a lesson.

For what its worth, my TAC-30 illumination is hit or miss also. Maybe it is temperature, it always seems to work in my basement but not always at matches.

I've been doing this for 10 years, and I still suck. mainly because I never practice due to lack of time, and I have other activities that have priority (mountain biking, hiking, fishing, raising children and trying to get along with my wife). I do this just for fun and I discovered shooters are some of the best people out there. How good you get depends a lot on what you put into the sport as to practice and number of matches you go to, along with natural talent (I have none). And it's important to define what you mean by no longer sucking. Winning local matches? Placing high at major matches? Becoming Grand Master? Not having to wear a bag over your head after a match from embaressment? Set your goals, and work up a plan to reach them.