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Easier way to clean CZs


ES13Raven

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Change your powder to n320 if you can find it

Runs so much cleaner

It's so much more expensive too and doesn't meter near as good. Titegroup really isn't that dirty unless my loads are a little low on PF. Edited by magpulled
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I clean my shadow every time I shoot it which is usually once a week. I've always cleaned my guns everytime I shot except with my rifles.

You must have SO MUCH more spare time than I do. I couldn't imagine cleaning my guns after my weekly range session, every single week.

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Just finished cleaning my SP-01 using a Harbor Freight ultrasonic with 20:1 mix of One-Shot. Prior to today I had been using Simple Green. I honestly think the Simple Green did a better job and I'll probably be switching back.

Field strip, remove grips, ultrasonic everything but the barrel (cleaning bore while everything else is in the tank), rinse, blow dry, oil, reassemble, and done. The whole job takes about an hour.

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Some of you guys will recognize this, "I will learn its weaknesses, its strength, its parts, its accessories, its sights and its barrel. I will keep my rifle clean and ready, even as I am clean and ready." For me it's not a matter of "spare time". It's a part of shooting. I shoot it - I clean it.

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I clean my shadow every time I shoot it which is usually once a week. I've always cleaned my guns everytime I shot except with my rifles.

You must have SO MUCH more spare time than I do. I couldn't imagine cleaning my guns after my weekly range session, every single week.

I just can stand a dirty gun. Plus it's easy to clean when it's maintained. So 15 minutes a week to keep it clean is an easy task.

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Cleaning when I think I should, not to often, but I do it once or twice a month (so every six shooting sessions or so).

Have used brake cleaner with big success, take off the grip panels, just spray it in, brush over it, and then spray the dirt out, oil it.

Now a friend of mine, who is cleaning his pistol after every shot or so ( :ph34r: ) gave me a can of cleaning benzine (right term?), which does the same, just without spraying.

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I talked to a guy who said said he squirts Breakfree CLP into his gun (happened to be a steel CZ 75), lets it soak for a minute, then blasts it out into a plastic-lined barrel with an air compressor. The whole thing takes him about 2 minutes, he said, and he stated he has used this method for years and his gun runs great. I haven't tried this method but it sounds good. I would add in snaking out the barrel with a couple of passes each time.

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Many triggers are aluminum, also custom version or aftermarket grips. Any simple green solution can eat into the aluminum. Also the brake cleaner works well but dissolves the red safety dot paint on the frame.

Edited by trgt
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An OCD friend showed me his setup of two harbor freight ultrasonic, one with gun cleaning fluid, hot water rinse between, then second with ultrasonic oil that displaces water and leaves dry lube. Does an awesome job especially with multiple guns - just pull grips off frame and go, upper just field strip and put in parts. So of course after I get setup I switch to open where I can't immerse the frame anymore with the red dot in tow.

Edited by trgt
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An OCD friend showed me his setup of two harbor freight ultrasonic, one with gun cleaning fluid, hot water rinse between, then second with ultrasonic oil that displaces water and leaves dry lube. Does an awesome job especially with multiple guns - just pull grips off frame and go, upper just field strip and put in parts. So of course after I get setup I switch to open where I can't immerse the frame anymore with the red dot in tow.

What size ultra sonic cleaners does he use? What cleaning fluid and what oil does he use?

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Many triggers are aluminum, also custom version or aftermarket grips. Any simple green solution can eat into the aluminum. Also the brake cleaner works well but dissolves the red safety dot paint on the frame.

This flavor of Simple Green should work. "Non-corrosive and safe to use on floors, painted surfaces, aluminum, stainless or polished steel, chrome, plastics, vinyl, canvas, cabinets, counters, stove tops, refrigerators, sinks, showers, tile, and more."

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I picked up a Lyman 6000 ultrasonic about a month ago. parts come out practically spotless. Since I never disassemble my CZ fully, it is a great help. I don't plan on doing this more than 2-3 times a year though.

Thanks for the Simple Green tip, didn't know one could use that in USonics.

Normally, I just hose the field-stripped parts with non-chlorinated break cleaner, blow it off with compressed air, and oil. I also re-oil before each shooting session.

BTW if you have fiber optic sights don't immerse them, they will eventually break from USonic action.

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+1 on simple green. I don't ultrasonic clean my guns but I'm in the jewelry repair business and this with a bit of water in it is what I use exclusively to clean all of the polishing rouge etc. out of stuff we work on.

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An OCD friend showed me his setup of two harbor freight ultrasonic, one with gun cleaning fluid, hot water rinse between, then second with ultrasonic oil that displaces water and leaves dry lube. Does an awesome job especially with multiple guns - just pull grips off frame and go, upper just field strip and put in parts. So of course after I get setup I switch to open where I can't immerse the frame anymore with the red dot in tow.

What size ultra sonic cleaners does he use? What cleaning fluid and what oil does he use?

This is what he had and I duplicated:

Ultrasonic Machines: http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

Cleaner and Lubricant: L&R http://www.lrultrasonics.com/industries/weapons/solutions/products.html

The L&R is a little pricy, but he oil lasts a long time

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I use Frog Lube.

Quick clean -- field strip and wipe off.

Occcasional thorough cleaning -- remove grip panels and fiber optic rod, field strip, spray down with NON-chlorinated brake cleaner, blow dry, re-FrogLube, put in new FO rod, and be done.

You don't need to clean your CZs every time, and never use standard, chlorinated brake cleaners on pistols. Non-chlorinated only .

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Big fan of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) here. I keep a large ziplock bag full of soaked patches. With the patches, a nylon brush, a bore brush, a snake, some paper towels and microfiber rags, I make quick work of cleaning a gun. Rifles and handguns alike run well on this stuff, plus I believe it is quite good at corrosion protection. I live in a dry climate so I don't have to worry too much about rust, but I think I'd still use ATF in a moist climate.

Once in a while I'll add a little synthetic motor oil as final lubrication step, but I don't think it's needed as long as I leave a film of ATF in the right places.

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This thread makes me think my cleaning method is completely insufficient. All I've ever done in my 1 year of gun ownership is break the gun(accu shadow) down into the slide, bushing, barrel, guide rod and spring, and frame. I just spray each part down with Ballistol and clean with a brush and bore brush, cotton swabs and patches, wipe it all down with micro fiber, and lube specific parts of the slide, barrel, and frame with gun butter. Is this not sufficient enough?

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I think as long as the gun runs for you and your happy with it then that's all you need to do. However I'm OCD with my guns and I clean them every time I shoot them. I figure anything mechanical is happy running clean than dirty. Plus my Duo tone CZ shows every bit of dirt.

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I have used brake cleaner for years, especially on my aluminum gripped pistols.

I then add oil to rotating parts, grease the rails, guide rod, and the hood and the end of the barrel and I am basically good to go.

As far as the barrel goes, I just try to wipe the feedramp clean.

Once in a blue moon I will scrub the barrel since I use Titegroup and Bear Creek burrets.

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