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Posts
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trgt's Achievements
Finally read the FAQs (3/11)
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Correct Pres has been RO/CRO/RM for almost 50 Level II or greater matches the last 10 years Pres was RM prior two year Roadrunner matches as well as recent Grid Iron and Top gun match in area Pres kept commit to help Roadrunner and was a stage CRO and probably knows everyone at the match personally
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I can add some color to your question, I've had many CZ slides done at Springer. My first slides he did with original delta point were positioned at the rear of the slide, he did mill screw bosses at that time to help capture the optic. Next ones were milled forward that required the extractor pin be cut down under the optic. Third time around we discussed and he was able to get the optic captured in the cut between extractor pin and material left at end of slide. That captures the optic so well (notice the radiused cut front for the optic, its not just hogged out) the raised screw bosses I don't think were necessary to prevent any front/rear movement. The screws then just hold the optic down. With regard to screws, my first slides returned from Springer got #5-40 not the factory ones. I was surprised as well, he said its what his CNC was set for, also maybe to get more threads that the factory screw which are only the tip. Later he moved larger #6-32. In both cases I was provided with button top style, maybe easiest for him to buy at first. I just sourced my own machine taper head 6-32, and suggested to him that folks might like that better. So sounds like that's what he's providing, but I doubt any magic on the angle 90 vs 100 degrees, gonna get whatever the screw companies are cutting. ### I've not any any problem with retention or loosening, will give you my 'tips' FWIW after 7 years shoot slide ride optics on CZ, its been years since I've had any issues: 1) Make sure the threads on screw and hole are SUPER CLEAN. Acetone or other, I use microfiber tip swabs that will fit the hole to make sure no oil/grease/residue 2) Blue loctite or VIbra-tite VC-3 (secret-sauce #1) to help secure the screw. Blue is good until it loosens at all, then it must be thoroughly cleaned off and reapplied before tightening again. VC-3) I currently prefer, can be reused or retightened as its more a 'gummy' hold vs cement like lock that is gone once hold is broke. 4) DO NOT use red lock tight, you are risking your optic with a thread locker that requires heat in order to release the bond 5) (secret sauce #2) Only reuse screws two or three times before replacing with a new screw. Screws work by stretching and holding item with that tension. These small screws can give up that tension / stretch at some point. I'm not a materials specialist to know what that point is, but earlier on with first few optic (the original delta point that needed to be removed to replace battery), I would get screws that at some point would never hold. Once I figure out to replace the screw problem solved. 6) I witness mark the screws (small dot edge of screw, small dot on optic), so I can easily see if something has moved. Have a hex key in case to tighten, mainly on new installs settling in. 7) (secret sauce #3) I noticed more issues destroying optics with 124gn vs earlier shooting 147gn, I switched back to polymer guide rode from a any of the metal ones on CZ to give me a bit of a shock buff / softer hit. If you see how peened the metal rod ends getting in the gun, you know something going on, again I don't know how to measure but this change has also helped with the 124s.
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Springer Precision has a nice milling cut that not only places the DPP cut behind the extractor pin, but still leaves a little bit of the rear end of the slide untouched such that the DPP is captured between the front and rear of the milling area. Sorry for late response, just happened to see this, left a comment in case still helpful to you, or perhaps another later.
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Another vote for Sport Pistol, I'm shooting that now exclusively over n320. Also lube can contribute to smokiness, if you are going heavy or making home brew, try a test batch with very minimal lube and then wipe them down before shooting to compare on smoke if that was part of your issue.
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I'm very happy with ACME 124 for my CZ - I've loaded at least 60k w/o a hiccup. Vicki there is super nice / attentive. If you email and say Enos there is a forum discount. FYI if you go 'big' and order 30k, she'll let you choose another color for your batch (I've done both black and green before)
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FIT Best to try both and see "fit' More specifically, if you are Men's glove size "L", either gun will probably fit, see which you like best. (I'm "L", I still prefer gen 1 with with Scales 2.0 grips that increase the circumference a small amount, but its still much less than Gen 2. If you are mens "M" or smaller, you may prefer the smaller grip diameter of gen 1with thin grips (and look into both CZC or Cajun reach reduction kit). If you are XL or greater, gen 2 has more gun for you to get your bear paws on (more similar to Tanfo Stock 2 in size). WEIGHT Gen 1 after milling and deltapoint you are still several ounces under weight. I run the brass version of scales 2.0 grips and am still at least 1/2 ounce under weight. Gen 2 as noted above there's some work to make weight but now its pretty well documented the work needed.
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If you are someone who prefers a striker fired gun and the simplicity of the same trigger pull no matter what, the Q5 SF is very nice. If you've shot a 1911 and enjoy a nice trigger, the single action on a CZ is about as close as you'll get to that. Just have to live with a DA first pull as noted. I shot both guns this morning (with red dots, the CO versions). The Q5 SF had nice heft but felt lighter than my CZ (I'm also running brass grips). It did feel like more weight in the barrel / dustcover vs my CZ which wears it more in the grip. I think you could be happy with either, but the grip feel was different enough both guns that is probably worth finding folks locally that have, and trying it out to see which grip you prefer.
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We were able to do this sooner in CO ... just breaking the edge off the right side of the trigger guard has made it so much more comfortable to shoot - no more CZ knuckle on the side of my right middle finger. This eventually gets refinished but I'd shoot it just like this unfinished for the comfort.
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When I had my czechmates they ran minor PF just fine with stock springs. A friend locally uses his CM minor PF for 3gun that way. I left the comp on as a barrel weight. Between that, and the fact it's overall a very heavy all steel gun, I'd just let that weight be the recoil reduction vs trying to amp up the load (more/slower powder) and just enjoy it.
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That's a fact! I settled for awhile on VZ Diamond Backs (more aggressive/different than VZ Tactical Diamonds), loved the grip, but they are thin and I like a little extra for my large size hands. The Scales 2.0 are also aggressive, and they bulk out the size to the equivalent of a 2011 grip. As an option, they now do the scales in brass which bulks up my SP01 Shadow another 2 ounces for CO, that's what I run now.
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SP-01 is on the roster yes - either dovetail/mill that for red dot, or get SP-01 Shadow upper from CZ Custom first ? . I know of a few completed CZ CO guns or uppers for sale NorCal if you want to buy one already done.
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"Normal" czechmate no longer lists extra barrel as being included at cz-usa. For awhile it was 2 extra barrels, then one extra barrel, and now it appears none.
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Yes, this was the only painful part of owning a SP01 Shadow/Accu LOL. Just recently finally took care of it. I removed the edge hand filing then removed scratches sandpaper -- no dremel. My CO accushadow not refinished yet, you can see where I knocked the edge off. Another of the CO SP01 shadows with same edge smoothing work after it was cerekoated.
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My first DP slide mounted optic, after I had it on / off a few times (for bottom mounted battery), I found it would no longer stay tight no matter what. Friend told me to try new screws, old ones might have lost their ability to stretch/hold, and that solved the issue. FYI as another thing to check in the future.