zzw26n Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Not everybody owns a dishwasher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curse13 Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I would stay away from break/carb cleaner on firearms. They pull any and ALL oils/moisture from the material it is applied to. Over time the metal will become brittle and cause pre mature failure in the metallic structure. Over time the oil you apply absorbs into ( " seasons") the metal like an iron skillet and pro longs the life of the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I would stay away from break/carb cleaner on firearms. They pull any and ALL oils/moisture from the material it is applied to. Over time the metal will become brittle and cause pre mature failure in the metallic structure. Over time the oil you apply absorbs into ( " seasons") the metal like an iron skillet and pro longs the life of the metal. This is, to put it politely, inaccurate. You seem to believe that oils impregnate metal. They do not. They sit on the surface. Your gun isn't a baseball glove. And oils don't "absorb into the metal" of an iron skillet. The surface builds up a carbon / oil coating. Degreasing metal parts (what brake / carb cleaners do), get ready for it: . . . Removes grease and oil (and crud). While removing oil can mean removing corrosion protection, it's easily restored by spraying on your aerosol oil of choice and blowing out the excess with a compressor. All this: "Over time the metal will become brittle and cause pre mature failure in the metallic structure." Is pure nonsense. Unprotected metal may rust. That's about it. Polymer frame guns, maybe it's a different story but I doubt it as long as you use stuff safe on plastics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 You season a cast iron skillet by giving it a thick coat of cooking oil and then putting it in a hot oven until all the oil has burned off leaving a coating of carbon ash. That's why they're iron colored at the store but black in a kitchen - new vs seasoned. The carbon coating protects the iron from oxygen and moisture (and adds some flavor to what you're cooking). Never use soap or harsh abrasives on a cast iron skillet, it can remove the carbon and you'll have to re-season the pan or it will rust. -I can't believe I just wrote that on a gun forum- Metals don't get damaged by having the oil removed from them. There's no oil in them in the first place. The oil is applied to the surface and it doesn't penetrate any farther than on the microscopic scale. It's there primarily as an oxygen barrier. Oxygen chemically bonds with iron and steel to form iron oxide (rust). Oil is not a requirement. Any substance that will keep the oxygen away will work just fine to protect steel. Paint, grease, powdercoat, cosmoline, electroplating, bear fat, etc. Oil is usually preferred for guns because it's inexpensive, less messy than most alternatives, has high surface tension to keep it in place, can be made to have a low flash point and it is a good lubricant. I have a rifle that has never even seen oil, let alone touched it. The trigger group is lubed with molybdenum and the rest of the gun, including the wood stock, is given a light coat of silicone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimitri Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I partly clean the gun after every firing session and fully at the end of the week. Part cleaning (on a Wednesday and Saturday) 1. Bore snake (3-4 passes) 2. Remove slide/barrel assembly and wipe clean areas that have grease/soot 3. Brush sear area to remove any debris 4. Re-lube contact areas and barrel (outside) Full Cleaning (or more full than part cleaning) 1. Bore snake 2. Hoppes elite in barrel 3. Either Crud Buster or CLP for the rest of the gun 4. Lube/grease all contact/shiny areas It all takes from 10 minutes up to one hour and I feel is time well spent (with a coffee/beer/cigarette) and I enjoy doing it (also I hate a dirty gun ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Just got the HF sonic cleaner a month or so ago. Removed the grips and slide from the lower and dropped them in. In a few minutes it was clean. Quickly blow dry it, then spray with CLP, then lube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt1 Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) I use an ultra sonic cleaner and the Uniquetek fluid. Put in frame, slide, barrel and guide rod/spring for 2 x 15min cycles. Give it a quick scrub with an old toothbrush in between. Let it drain until it's dry then lube and assemble. Every few thou I run a couple of passes of a Lewis lead remover through the barrel. Tales me less than 5 mins. I do this before major matches (so every 1000 rounds or so). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited September 21, 2015 by Matt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curse13 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) I appreciate the re-education:). Just passing on what I thought to be legit info passed on to me by old military guy so assumed would be accurate. Thanks for shutting my nonsense down and providing accurate info. It makes sense and is more logical. ? Edited September 22, 2015 by Curse13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gcarr Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Mineral Spirits ... Works better than anything I have ever tried... Sea Foam does almost as good of a job. Try it ... You will like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmagee67 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I shoot 3 to 4 matches a month, about 1000 rounds a month and haven't cleaned my CZ since april. It's now September and I don't see myself cleaning it anytime soon. I just wipe it down lube with a little Mobil 1 and wipe the excess off. I also use that ultra-expensive N320 powder, I swear that powder burns cleanly and leaves nothing behind. PS I've never had a gun stoppage or failure in a match or training. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmagee67 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I shoot 3 to 4 matches a month, about 1000 rounds a month and haven't cleaned my CZ since april. It's now September and I don't see myself cleaning it anytime soon. I just wipe it down lube with a little Mobil 1 and wipe the excess off. I also use that ultra-expensive N320 powder, I swear that powder burns cleanly and leaves nothing behind. PS I've never had a gun stoppage or failure in a match or training. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elguapo Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I might clean my 75 about every 1500 - 2000 rounds. So long as the slide rails and the sears have a film of grease and there's some oil in the sear cage shafts, it will run just fine. As far as the actual cleaning method, squirt remoil into the sear cage and between the frame and trigger bar until the solvent runs clean blow off with air wipe the inside of the frame and slide with blue paper towels scrub bore with lead solvent lubricate all rotating pivot points with oil (real oil not that tacticool non toxic crap) grease slide rails and sear surfaces Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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