HDGoose

Well crap - there's the problem. I had read somewhere (or maybe misunderstood what I read) that trimming the FP spring was only necessary when running a non SVI firing pin - so I've been running a stock length Wolff spring which is likely causing coil binding and occasional light strikes. So let me make sure I have this straight: For an IBF gun FP spring should always be trimmed to " flush with the tip of the firing pin when the spring is fully seated on the firing pin". Non SVI pin will require additional trimming because of the shorter length from end of pin to shoulder. Is that about right?

So does the factory SV pin also require trimming of the FP spring? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm going to order a replacement screw tomorrow but mainly just to have a spare. I did examine the screw closely and there is nothing visually wrong with it. I'll let you keep you nickel. You may be right and I may be able to get the gun to run 100% with the stock FP but frankly I don't see anything wrong with running an extended pin. It seems like cheap insurance against light strikes to me. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well, it turns out that tightening the IBF was not the solution to all of the problems. Prior to a big match last weekend I test fired one magazine with the Dawson extended firing pin and shortened FP spring so that I would at least know whether or not it would work for a backup if needed. Luckily it did work because on the 2nd stage of a 20 stage match (roughly 50 rounds in) I had two light strikes again. Switched to the Dawson between stages and the gun ran great for the remaining 18 stages (roughly 700 rounds). I think I'll stay with the extended pin from now on.

And we have a winner! Thanks for the pointer Baron - the screw didn't seem to be backed out but it wasn't even finger tight. Cleaned the threads and gave it a drop of blue loctite. Hopefully that'll solve it. I'm betting it could also help the erratic ejection I've been seeing. I think I'll order an extra screw or two and begin checking to make sure the screw is tight each time I clean the gun. I may still try the extended FP but I want to see what it'll do with the stock pin for now. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I appreciate your opinion and experience but I'm relatively confident that high primers aren't the problem. I could definitely be wrong but I'm confident that my reloading and inspection routine is solid. I'm running Winchester small pistol primers - which I ran over 15k of through my STI last year with zero problems. My STI has a lighter main spring (17lb vs 19lb in the SV). The most obvious difference between the guns is the much shorter FP. I'm not sure there is anything wrong with the gun at all as the number of light strikes is pretty low - maybe 15? I guess I'm hoping the extended firing pin could possibly make the gun a little less sensitive to primer variables? 19lb. I don't know the round count but it is low. I bought it used from another Enos member and it looked absolutely brand new. I've run just under 1800 rounds through the gun so far. I have not changed the main spring.

Yeah, the SVI and Dawson are similar but the SVI is .035 shorter and the shoulder that the FP spring stops against is set back about .180" further on the SVI than on the Dawson.

What are other SVI shooters using for extended firing pin? I've had some light strike problems lately so I ordered a Dawson which is .035" longer than the stock SVI FP but had to trim 5 coils from the FP spring just to be able to get the FP stop in place. I assume this is because of the IBF? Does someone make an extended pin that doesn't require trimming the spring? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nope, barrel ports are not permitted in Limited. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've never bought a firing pin spring, always just used the spring that comes with each new Wolff recoil spring. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm not sure how to tune for consistent lock back on an empty mag but here are a couple of videos for how to trim the follower to eliminate slide lock. I assume that tuning for lock back would involve trimming the tab in either thickness or width so that it doesn't contact the slide stop too soon. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes they are..... sorry about that. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Stage diagrams still are still available at the above link.

^This^ I load on a 550 and I've only had one squib but I'm sure it was my fault (not the press), and that was enough to help me develop a few habits to make sure I never have another. Never reload when distracted. Index immediately after letting the handle back down from the primer seating stroke. Look in to the case at station 2 to make sure it has no powder then glance at station 3 and make sure it has powder as I'm setting the bullet on the case mouth. As long as I'm doing these things every time there is zero chance of a double charge or squib. Also, in four years of shooting USPSA I've seen far more squibs loaded on 650's than 550's. Probably because there are a lot more shooters loading with 650's but it does indicate to me that squibs can happen even if using an auto-indexing press.

With the CR Speed pouch I had to pull the mag up and out because the pouch isn't flexible at all and wraps around four sides of the mag. The front of the 771 (773 in my original post was wrong - now edited to 771) is open and the pouch is flexible so if I move my hand aggressively and hit the mag hard the mag kind of acts like a wedge and further opens the front of the pouch, and pops the mag out. Essentially changes the mag grab from three motions (hand to mag, pull mag up, mag to gun) to two motions by eliminating the motion of pulling the mag up and out of the pouch.

I agree with Dr Mitch. Recently switched from CR Speed to Safariland 771 and they're fantastic. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I got Soundgear at Area 1 last year and I love them - I don't think I could ever go back to muffs. Only problem is they're small and if misplaced can almost cause a panic attack until found. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cosmetic. Just looks like the cutter used to machine the undercut for the safety breaking through to the inside cavity so it isn't a crack or a void. Also not in a particularly high stress location so probably won't affect strength at all. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hey CHA-LEE - I was actually typing an update when you when you posted your comment. Things have been going well. Life, work, and a vacation have conspired to cut into my practice and shooting time for the last few months but I think I've got my priorities straightened out now and I'm in full practice mode to work on the list and get ready for next season. Your class has definitely helped, since then I feel like my practice (dry and live) is much more focused and productive which is resulting in quicker and better results. The list has actually made me feel less overwhelmed as now I've got priorities to work on instead of trying to work on everything at the same time. Thanks for the encouragement!

I'm back after being absent far too long. I took a little break during a vacation and also trying to get caught up at work prior to and after the vacation. I also played around a little shooting production instead of limited. I've now decided that I'm probably going to sell my production gear and focus 100% on limited. For the last few weeks my dryfire has been mainly fundamentals and gun handling to get used to my limited gear again and that has gone well. This week has been spent on transitions as they seem to have gotten a little choppy and I know that I donated a significant amount of time on slow transitions at my last match. Tonight while working on wide transitions I discovered a question: How wide can I transition without moving my feet - or maybe how wide should I transition without moving my feet? I think that since I'm relatively comfortable with a cone of fire (angle between feet) of roughly 90 degrees then I should be able to transition the full 90 degrees without any change in foot position as long as my stance is wide and low enough to be stable and if target difficulty will allow it. I mention target difficulty as I'm not sure I'm confident on tough shots when at the extreme edges of my cone of fire. I plan to practice 90 degree transitions without moving my feet and also work on 90 (and 90+) degree transitions with a change in foot position as I'm sure I need to be proficient at both. I also plan to do some live fire testing to find out what target difficulty I can effectively handle when indexed at the extreme edges of my cone of fire. I think I'll find that on one or two open targets at maybe 7 yards or closer I'll be fine but at anything longer, more than two targets, steel, or partials I'll want to actually move my feet to make the targets centered in my cone of fire. When practicing wide transitions I need to make sure I'm keeping the gun extended instead of pulling it in. When transitioning with my feet I need to make sure I'm pivoting on the ball of the inside foot and driving the transition with the toes of the outside foot. Also in dry fire tonight it felt like I was more comfortable indexed all of the way to my left (weak) side, and less comfortable when indexed all of the way to my right. Should probably practice both until I'm comfortable at either side? Updates to follow.....

Great advice indeed! A bunch of that advice is going to be included in my reload practice starting tomorrow!

H&S 180 grain. They seem to be consistent for dimension and weight and are affordable. And it doesn't hurt that it's only a 15 minute drive for me to pick them up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've been running H&S 180's in my 2011 for a year now and have been very happy with them. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sometimes an off center primer pocket can cause difficulty seating a primer, rotating the case 90 degrees can make seating easier. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think he means that was literally trying to rotate the one piece of brass being primed, not indexing the shell plate. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk