your choice for an all-around, non-competition revolver

[Steelman]

OK I know you guys are the expert revo shooters and I respect that....that's why I'm posting this here.

what would be your choice of revolver for all-around use...meaning you can use it for range/target use; occasional carry and home defense? Primary use would be range/target. I'm not a hunter so that doesn't need to be factored in. No price limit.

I was considering S&W 686; 627 UDR or maybe an older 3 or 4 inch "combat magnum" in 38/357...but I'm open to suggestions from the pros. If I do ever decide to compete the most accessible ranges near me offer IDPA competition only.

The reason I ask this question is that I'm increasingly drawn to the PC 627...but it may be more than I need if I don't compete. I am looking for a revolver with equal quality but a broader, less "race gun" purpose. The 8 shot cylinder appeals to me but do I really need it if I don't compete?

Thanks in advance.

[TBeazlie]

I think it would be hard to beat a 686 as an all around gun. But, really, this is not about needs. It is all about wants. If you want a 627 get a 627. If it does not work out then sell it and get your next want.

[PatJones]

The revolvers with capacities above 6 are not welcome in IDPA. A 6-shot 686 with a 4" barrel will fulfill all of your requirements.

Any of the k frame guns will work too, but they share the same grip frame and the 686's are stronger. Just remember 4" barrels are the longest allowed in IDPA.

[Luv2rideWV]

For non-competition and occasional carry with range use and home defense thrown in, I suggest a 4" L or N frame Smith. If you reload, that is even better! The 4" is the perfect balance between shootability/packability/not too big for a fighting gun. Look at the guns and choose what you like! The 3" is better for carrying, and you'll get a better ejector stroke than you would have with a 2 1/2" gun. My next gun will be a 627 Pro.

My favorite completely stock revolvers:

• 2 1/2" 686 that I carry in a Galco Combat Master holster. The gun is a chunk to carry but a dream to shoot and transitions very well.
• 4" 629 that I mainly shoot 44 Spl. ammo in. I carry it in a Galco Phoenix holster or a Safariland 568(?). This gun is a favorite of mine and does double duty as a training and dry fire gun because it is very similar in the hand to my 4" 625.
• 4" GP100 in 38 Spl. with fixed sights. Yes, it is a 38 and not a 357. Searched and found a set of the old GP factory grips. Carry it in another Safariland paddle holster (love those things). It used the same speed loaders as my L-frame Smiths. Actually shot a little bit of USPSA revolver with it.

Those aren't all of my revolvers, but those are the ones that fit the parameters of our conversation. I would feel satisfied if any were my only gun (damned sad thought). I can and do carry these (although not as easily as my Airweight 442). I reload for these guns. I suggest you get the one that turns you on, and buy another one on down the road that turns you on, and buy......you get the picture.

[z40acp]

The old revolver guys like Skeeter Skelton used to talk about how the 5" barrel S&W N frame was the best balanced. That was before the heavy barrels of today. A .357 is nice but a 10mm will shoot .40s also. Probably hard to conceal unless your pretty big.

[19852]

For me? It's the S&W Model 13 .357 with 3" barrel. Shoots and handles well. Carries nicely.

[pistolpete10]

Since you shoot IDPA the 4" 686 or 586. For carry a model 19 in 2-1/2 or 4". There are other good choices too.

[MWP]

No one said 4" 625?

[Steelman]

Thank you for all your collective advice. You have confirmed my thoughts on a 686 or 627 as likely candidates. I will probably wind up with both, but I will most likely start with a 2 1/2 or 3 inch 686 first...as I want to lean towards a carry piece first.

No one said 4" 625?

I was thinking this myself. And my LGS just happens to have one in stock......

[open17]

Right up toward the top of my "everybody needs at least one" list:

Medium frame

4 inch barrel

357 magnum

with adjustable sights

Personally I'm a sucker for older pinned and recessed S&W model 19's, but

there are lots of others out there. You can run everything from 38 cowboy

loads for plinkin' with the kids clear up to 357 HP for serious social work.

[Tom Freeman]

If you are not going to compete, grab a 627.

If you have smaller hands, get the 686.

[Steelman]

"If you are not going to compete, grab a 627."

I'm sure I'll grab a 627. I might just wait until you guys get your 929's...and sell your 627's!

Edited August 16, 2014 by Steelman

[Shadowrider]

Don't discount a GP100. They are very robust guns that will handle whatever load you wish to shoot unlike the K frame S&W ( stay away from 125gr and lighter due to barrel cracking under the forcing cone). They tune up nicely too but get very little love in the matches for some reason. I actually like their cylinder release better than Smith's. I'll echo that a 686 or GP100 will do you well.

[seanc]

No one said 4" 625?

lol

4" 625 is the devils work.

[Aglifter]

I'm very fond of my 4" 625. Inordinately so, really.

[toothguy]

Thank you for all your collective advice. You have confirmed my thoughts on a 686 or 627 as likely candidates. I will probably wind up with both, but I will most likely start with a 2 1/2 or 3 inch 686 first...as I want to lean towards a carry piece first.

I have a 2 1/2 inch 7 shot 686 that is one of my favorite guns. The size and weight makes it more difficult to carry than something like a J frame, but nice to shoot. If I were choosing between a 2 1/2 inch or 3 inch barrel I would go with the 3 inch barrel. The 3 inch barrel version has a full length extraction rod that makes the longer 357 cartridges easier to dump.

[JohnRodriguez]

if you can get on of the 3" 627 and change out the steel cylinder to titanium, then you will have a nice all around gun. I carry mine, when coyote hunting with some bird shot shells 7-1/2 and with some 125 gr gold dot ammo or 158gr gold dot, depending on the area I'm in, mountains or flats. all my ammo is hand loaded. if I'm hunting deer which is rare for me these days, i'll use all the above plus 180gr LBT hard cast bullets. nice thing is all you have to do is open the cylinder an index to the load you want to use.

[bountyhunter]

OK I know you guys are the expert revo shooters and I respect that....that's why I'm posting this here.

what would be your choice of revolver for all-around use...meaning you can use it for range/target use; occasional carry and home defense? Primary use would be range/target. I'm not a hunter so that doesn't need to be factored in. No price limit.

I was considering S&W 686; 627 UDR or maybe an older 3 or 4 inch "combat magnum" in 38/357...but I'm open to suggestions from the pros. If I do ever decide to compete the most accessible ranges near me offer IDPA competition only.

The reason I ask this question is that I'm increasingly drawn to the PC 627...but it may be more than I need if I don't compete. I am looking for a revolver with equal quality but a broader, less "race gun" purpose. The 8 shot cylinder appeals to me but do I really need it if I don't compete?

Thanks in advance.

model 66 with three or four inch barrel.

686 is a fine gun (I own a couple) but the larger frame is more weight to carry around.

There are a lot of model 10's with 4" barrels that can be had cheap.

Edited August 17, 2014 by bountyhunter

[Blueridge]

My suggestion is the Ruger GP-100 in .357 mag with the 4.2" barrel. It is more durable than the S&W revolvers that you listed. For target/range and defensive purposes it is hard to beat. It can perform well in IDPA if you choose to try it out in that disipline.

[snertley]

S&W 686 is a gun everyone should own. Other options are GP100 or a good used Ruger Security 6. All would fit your needs. Find one, buy it and shoot it!

[GmanCdp]

I have more K frames then I do L frames, but I shoot the L frame in IDPA/USPSA .

Still working on the mdl 65 top rh side as a carry option going to send it off to get the action slicked up. Bottom lh side gun I think will be shooting at the nationals this year. This K frame seems a little faster getting on target and it has a sweet action job on it requiring federal primers only. With the current market on revolvers, you can buy one shoot it for a couple years and get a good return on investment if you decide to sell. It takes a whole lot of rounds to wear one down and out, especially shooting low power wad cutters or 125 gr bullets.

Top 586/357 64hb/38spl 65hb/357

bottom 67 hb/38spl std 67/38spl 66/357

edited to add mdl #'s

Edited August 18, 2014 by GmanCdp

[robertbank]

Don't discount the Ruger GP - 100 4.2". I have both the Ruger Gp - 100 and the 686 and the 686 is the back up gun to the GP - 100. My Ruger's triiger is smooth as silk as is my 686. The Ruger weighs exactly one once heavier and has a tighter lock up. Both guns shoot like lasers. Essentially nothing to choose between the two. For full loads in 357Mag I can't imagine the Ruger ever having a problem. The Smith might but is built strong as well. If you install the Hi Viz sights on both guns you would neer tell the difference in performance other than a lighter pocket when you buy the Smith.

Take Care

Bob

[twodownzero]

I pick the GP100's big brother--the Ruger Redhawk. Mine is a .45 Colt 4.2"