pistolpete10

How accurate do they shoot???

I use RCBS dies for 9 MM in my 550 and have not had any problems with chambering. I did add the Lee taper crimp die with the sizing ring in it because I do see a bulge on some of the loaded rounds.

I've loaded thousands of rounds with Fed. primers without problems, bought 3000 Win LPs, now major problems to get them flush. My solution will be NO MORE WIN PRIMERS. I'll use only Fed. Life is too short for this crap.

Been shooting a 625JM since about 2009. The 625 has tighter chambers than the 1911 guns I have. I have a gauge so I gauged them, the ones that fail I shot in my semis, the others for the revolver. The problem is the bulge at the base of the bullet. This makes a big difference. Last year I bought the Lee die that taper crimps and resizes the bulge. The Lee die seems to work altho some still won't pass the gauge they still seem to work in the revolver. I shoot lead, .452 to .453 diameter. If I use Remington brass I have no problems, It must be thinner than the others, Fed. seems to be the thickest, my Rem and Fed brass is old stuff, new stuff may be different.

It is the bullet bulge that causes the problem in my 625 JM. The S&W evidently has tighter chambers than any of my 1911 guns. If they drop in my guage they'll drop in the revolver. I bought one of the Lee dies that sizes as it crimps and it seems to work. I know it sizes the bullet too but for IDPA and plinking I can't tell any difference. Still load bullseye on a single stage press and some segregated GI brass that all guages good. Remington brass also all guages good, must be a hair thinner. It is bullet diameter, seating depth and variations in brass.

You guys would rather shoot a Ruger than a S&W? Really? I know they are cheaper but Really?

I prefer the GI safety to all others. It's easy to use and isn't in the way, doesn't hurt my thumb. Check it out.

I replaced one of the large ambis with a standard GI style safety. The paddle on the right side almost prevented disengaging the safety. HATED IT.

I'm pretty sure Bill can sell ou something to shoot that's legal. He sells 4" guns. Too bad we can't use the Lightweight Commander.

Wilsons just eliminated J frames from BUG and dis allowed Commanders from the carry gun div. I wonder why?

Wish I could give you those off my Colt.

In recent years I've had to file the front sights on 3 pistols and replace the rear sight on 1, they shot low. I don't know what the problem is but some times adjustable sights really pay off. If you consistently shoot low and get decent groups then the gun shoots low and the sights need correcting.

It's not gonna be right when you buy it and it probably won't be right when you get it back from warranty repair. I'm 3 for 3 on latest 3 revolvers. Buy an older gun if available in what you want. their new ones suck.

Dillon taper crimp die works fine as will any other taper crimp die.

Glocks bite my finger, solution is don't shoot Glocks. There are plenty other guns that don't bite.

I have 2 L frames and a K frame that shoot any primers, all 3 have light mainsprings. I have a 625 that also has had the pull lightened, I have to jack it up to shoot anything other than Fed. primers. I had to do just that a few years ago when I couldn't come up with any Fed. Primers.

For IDPA a 686 or 586. For carry a K frame. The L frame gun with .38 Specials is almost like shooting a .22 due to the extra weight. I find that the speed loader is faster with the L frame. If I had the K frame I'd shoot it and be happy but I prefer the L for IDPA. I recently traded for a 2-1/2" model 19 that I'll use in the next bug match but I'll feel a little guilty.

Since you shoot IDPA the 4" 686 or 586. For carry a model 19 in 2-1/2 or 4". There are other good choices too.

There are differences in brass by brands. I don't worry about it as I shoot IDPA and it doesn't matter. When I shot bulls eye I chronoed .45 ACP and mixed brass made quite a difference in velocity. I do have some S&B brass with tight primer pockets, gonna load them for IDPA and let the brass stealers have them. I would segregate the brass if I was serious about accuracy or uniform velocities.

I've been shooting 4.3 Titegroup with berry's 124 RN in a 92FS and in an LC9 and they're perfect so far. Accurate and they lock back the slides. I haven't run them on the chrono yet.

I shoot WST in .45ACP. Last summer (105) in a sanctioned match, I had one of the 3 test loads fail the chrono. 4th bullet barely passed. I was about 50 fps over when I tested them but it was cooler. I was shooting 4.9 with a 200 cast bullet.

Glocks eat my finger, 1911, S&W revolvers, 92FS, LC9, and most others no problem. Try another gun.

For me there is no carry/IDPA gun. I like full sized guns for IDPA (it's a game) and small guns for carry. A 625 for IDPA, a 642 for carry. A 1911 for IDPA, an LC9 for carry. I won't carry the big gun, too big too heavy.

Wst, Clays, Bullseye, 700X, for target loads. I currently shoot 4.3 of WST with a 200 cast bullet the other powders also work. Use 4.2 Bullseye with a 200 cast SWC for bulls eye competition. I think most fast burning powders work well for target loads. I have used 231 but it dosen't seem to do as well as the others at the lighter loadings.

SS in SSP, CDP, ESR,and SSR and I barely squeak SS. I'm a long way from expert in any class. Seems like I'm not capible. I have a new pair of glasses on the way, we'll see. My accuracy is pretty good but I lack the speed required. Shooting thru trifocals and I lose the tri focal. New glasses are to the front sight on the right, distance on the left. I'm hoping this will help.