9 mm reloading - Which Crimp die?

[b1gcountry]

I am setting up my 650 for 9 for the first time. I am planning on loading with

1 lee resizer,

2 Dillon powder drop

3 powder check

4 lee bullet seater

5 ?

What crimp die? I will start out with berry 125 plated bullets and vv n340. This is for a general purpose minor load. I want it to work in all my guns.

[Torogi]

A lot will say Lee FCD, but im just a convert to a taper crimp. I want to just remove the belling. IMO, less crimp, less chance of affecting plating/coating = better accuracy.

[rdinga]

i prefer either Dillon or Redding crimp dies. Not a fan of the the Lee fcd on pistol calibers

[EngineerEli]

I have been very happy with my Hornady taper crimp die for 9mm. I was surprised to find the Hornady taper crimp die is even smoother than the Redding one I got for .40. I have contacted Redding though, and they offered to refinish the inside if I send it in to them, so I may do that this winter. I use an undersized sizing die so the FCD is not necessary for me.

[ToddKS]

I use the Lee FCD. The key, as with any die, is to ensure that it is properly adjusted. I can barely feel the crimp die engage the case when everything is adjusted correctly.

The other thing I will mention is that for me one of the keys to getting the crimp right is to make sure that I am not belling the case mouth any more than is necessary to get the bullet seated. By minimizing the belling there is not much work to do at the crimp die.

Depending on the brass you are using you might also want to consider using the Lee undersized sizing die.

[nicholastheczar]

I use the Dillon crimp die on my 650 and have had no problems what so ever. I did however have some primer draw back with my dillon sizing/depriming die and switched over to a Lee in position 1. The Lee works ok but I have noticed that the beveled opening on the lee is not as pronounced as the dillon and I get hang ups on the die mouth (even with case being pushed all the way against the shell plate). I've since switched back to the dillon after polishing and beveling the depriming pin which now doesn't pull the primer back into the pocket.

Edited July 22, 2014 by nicholastheczar

[Sandbagger123]

FCD for me. when adjusted correctly i have never had a round that did not chamber. works great especially with mixed brass of varying lengths

[v1911]

If running 125gr you can get away with not going the FCD route. I found once I started running 147gr, I was failing the case gauge 2 out of 10 attempts. The Lee FCD got that back down to about 2 out of 100. Mind you that was the case gauge, plunk test would result in 100% success ratio. YMMV.

[Jman]

Dillon taper die

[b1gcountry]

Wow, it sounds like everyone is doing something different!

Depending on the brass you are using you might also want to consider using the Lee undersized sizing die.

I am using once fired, and range pick up brass.

[ToddKS]

It is the head stamp that make a difference.

I did some tests where I made dummy rounds on different brands of brass, measured the OAL, chambered the rounds 5 times each, and then measured each round again thus determining how far each bullet had set back after the 5 chamberings. This gives you a relative idea of the case neck tension that each combination is producing. I did the test for each brand using both the standard Lee sizing die and the undersized Lee die.

Based on those results I now use the following die on these head stamps

Undersized: FC, WIN, PMC, BLAZER, SPEER,

Either: R&P, HRTS

Standard: WCC, CBC, S&B,

HRTS and R&P were close enough that they could go either way. WCC, CBC, and S&B just seem too tight when sized with the undersized die.

AMERC headstamp is recycled on site. I do not know what is wrong with this brass but I have never had any luck with it in 9MM or 45ACP.

[BeerBaron]

my advice, especially since you're using brass fired out of random other guns will be to use the lee FCD in the last station.

as some others mentioned the key is to adjust it correctly. if using FMJ or CMJ you don't need a massive amount of crimp. basically just enough to remove the belling.

I would try the FCD first. if for no other reason than it's the cheapest. so if you decide you don't like it you're only down about $25... some of the other lee gear is a bit questionable but their dies are very good value.

[427Cobra]

9mm Dillon Dies All The Way Around In My 650

[mjohn]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Ditto!

[nagantino]

I struggled with the FCD for a long time. I read the instructions and watched the videos but, after doing so, the finished rounds were unsatisfactory. I could take the round and turn the lead bullet with my fingers and even pull it out. I started again and now the round can just be felt touching the die. It's not how it's meant to be but the 9mm and .45 acp all pass the thunk test. That's the short version.

[ES13Raven]

I use Lee dies in my 550b (except for the powder/expanding die) and 99/100 of my rounds pass the EGW chamber check, which is supposedly tighter than the Dillon. The one that doesn't pass sticks out about 1/16th of an inch or less and still fires fine out of my Glock 34.

[BeerBaron]

yep, EGW gauge is tighter than the dillon gauge. the EGW is at the min end of SAAMI specs.

[HOGRIDER]

Went with Redding Micrometer Taper Crimp and couldn't be happier with performance/consistency in the XL650!

Edited August 27, 2014 by HOGRIDER

[JLeeCZ]

I get consistency with the Dillon. No reason to use anything else.

[b1gcountry]

I have been away for a bit, but thanks for the responses. I just set up with the fcd for now, and will start loading some test rounds tonight

[pistolpete10]

Dillon taper crimp die works fine as will any other taper crimp die.

[CZ85Combat]

Find a faster powder, N340 is a slower burning powder good for SD loads, look for some N320 for minor load it will be a lot cleaner burning.

[mgrs]

Loading thousands of xtreme plated and SNS cast lead with random pickup brass on an XL650 with dillon dies, I have only had two failures to chamber in 9mm. Both times, they were 147gr cast lead and the middle of the case bulged out around the based of the bullet. Both cases had a light band that looked like a cannalure, and that was where they buckled.

I have never felt the need for an FCD. Yes, it ensures quality control, but also should not be needed if everything else is working properly. All of mine that came with die sets collect dust.

You may want to seat and taper crimp in separate stations. I have never been able to get the lee seat/taper crimp to happen in the same stage without damaging lead or coated lead bullets. Plated may be a little easier.

[Bob DuBois]

Shooting a Trojan in 9mm with a Kart barrel. Lee standard size die in one, Dillon Powder through die in two that's been polished down so

a piece of sized brass just slips on the belling die. Just went to a Dillon seating die with a slight amount taken off the sides of the

seating insert so the insert pushes on the nose of the bullet and not the sides. Have used Lee's seating die with a flat insert again so

the insert pushes on the nose of the bullet. Keeps OAL close down to a few thousands. Dillon crimp die, if using Lee's factory crimp die

it set to only do a slight crimp. Don't care for the FCD as I feel accuracy suffers over a standard taper crimp. Don't care what the box

says always lube cases. Makes the whole process easier on the brass, dies, press and the operator.

40 S@W is where Lee's U die shines, seen tight chambered guns start running by just changing the first stage sizing die. Lee's size die

will size closer to the extractor groove and tighter than other brands. Might not run as fast but you have to rob from Peter to pay Paul.

Shooting a stock gun, Glock, M@P etc stay with the Dillon size die if you already have it. Midway runs Lee's carbide die sets around forty

bucks. Took me a long time to go to Lee's dies but they work and work well.

[DukeNuc]

After loading a lot of pistol calibers for years and experimenting with a lot of different die combinations in a 650, I think for 9mm your best bet are the Dillon dies. The reason.....A progressive press will always work smoother with dies that are designed for one. (i.e. a little larger opening) If you set up the press correctly (and many people believe they have but don't) and the brass you are using hasnt been abused (which shouldnt be a problem for 9mm) then it will work very well. I rarely ever have a round that wont gauge. If you want to use a Lee FCD, the impact on smoothness of operation is minimal, but noticeable. If you go to dies like the EGW undersize die to take out a Glock bulge in brass, you will significantly impact how smooth the press operates. You can minimize the effect by tearing down your press and using the Dillon alignment tool to get the press perfectly aligned, but it still wont operate as smoothly. A micrometer seating die just isnt necessary for almost any pistol loading.

In short, unlues you have a very good reason for needing to get tricky with your dies that isnt due to something else you are not doing correctly, stick with the Dillon dies and you will be happier.