HOGRIDER

jeremy: Lee64 has also provided some excellent information above!

Not sure if your "every maker's variation" includes the Pal Primer Filler................. Purchased one based on my research here, and it's yet to produce an upside down primer; nor has it been anything but super reliable! https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/244660-pal-filler/

From my notes for a Glock G17G4 with Bar-Sto Barrel: Bayou 147 Coated FP 3.2gr N320 Avg: 893fps ES: 17 SD: 4 OAL: 1.120" Excellent Accuracy. Was normally belling to .382 with DAA powder funnel. ALWAYS crimped to .376"-.377". IMO, your crimp is a bit too much. May want to pull a few bullets and check for scraping of the Bayou coating. Read this: https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=78873.0 PS: 1.142 is a fine COAL as long as it fits the chamber of your Shadow 2! Check this: https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=103620.0

Transposed from the original blueprints with early modifications.............. Correctly modified sear/hammer angles and surfaces can result in less than 2# pull weights and be perfectly safe for thousands of rounds!

Good point! From the pic attached, we can see if the hammer hooks were .018", then the primary angle of the sear may only contact .014". That's secondary angle on the sear face will determine depth of engagement.

Absolutely!

Dry: I took it for granted you were on a progressive! Sorry, but if you using a single station press for this op as you stated, then simply use the setup instructions that came with your die. There's also a .pdf for setup on Redding's website. After loading thousands of coated bullets, I have never had any "sticking" issue with the various brands I have used. I'm assuming the snapping noise happens when the seated round just begins to exit the seating die? IMO, if you had sticking/snapping caused strictly by the bullet, there would be some sort of markings/indentions on the ogive! Only time I have felt resistance in the seating die was either due to over-belling the case mouth which causes the outer case edge to rub against the inside of the seating die body. Or, there was not enough expansion of the case mouth to allow the bullet a smooth transition into the case body while seating. Make up a few dummy rounds (no primer or powder) then knock the bullet out of the case and look for scarring/scraping of the coating away from the lead core. Also, take a permanent marker and blacken the walls of the case to see if anything is contacting the brass. What diameter coated bullets are your loading? Definitely makes a difference........... If your trying to load for 12 different pistols, your off to an extremely challenging process! My recommendation is to find a load that shoots well in YOUR TWO PISTOLS and document/test for a common load that shoots well in both. DO NOT seat deeper for a "safety margin"! Use this information to find a COAL that fits and functions in BOTH YOUR GUNS: https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.msg189131#msg189131 Then while checking and double checking the info for your particular powder, primer, and bullet combo at your DESIRED COAL, load up a sufficient number of test rounds and follow Memphis Mechanic's advise and TEST THOSE LOADS! Make sure you use a QUALITY case gauge and/or YOUR PRIMARY gun barrel to check each and every round until you get these issues resolved. Once you've developed loads that work just as you desire in YOUR PISTOLS, use what you've learned and develop loads for the "other 10 pistols"................ Good luck!

Agree 100% And that Guide Bolt has a "shoulder".......... for a reason..............

That is evident!

If you use the Redding Micrometer Seating Die, and check the COAL to .000", there will be variations regardless of what press we're using. One thing that will shrink variances with the Redding Die is to remove the internal spring when seating pistol calibers. Also, when setting the micrometer, make sure the shellplate is full then do final, fine adjustments. My RL1100 is sporting a complete set of Redding Competition Pro Dies, and they always produce first class ammo!

Rob: While thinking about this very important point you make about a built in safety feature, I remembered during a short loading session the Lever Arm Bracket worked loose from the primer magazine. Basically fouled up the press as the primer Cam Plate assembly slid down an jammed against the Cam Guide Bolt and the Primer Slide Assembly! The guide bolt held its own and never loosened or cracked. But the press would lock up if trying to go down with the handle. So, you may have a valid point here...........

AWESOME setup!

Of course my machine is not automated..........yet.... ;), so don't have a lot of rounds going through the press; but so far the aluminum shim seems to have the stock Guide Bolt spaced out from the toolhead at the right distance. I have no idea if this is even necessary, but since I removed the toolhead ratchet which is 0.137" thick, replacing it with a 1"x1" piece of aluminum flat bar seemed like a good idea. As stated in your quote above, the flat bar is 0.127" thick and makes it very easy to use as a replacement for the ratchet.

IMO, yes it is. This is from the chart Redding has on their various caliber Mic taper crimp dies: