Adam B Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 all he really needs to do is open up the pin hole to .105 unless he wants to sell something similar to his T2 disco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Sent David a note as well. Just starting work on my Stock III. Would love to go with that Cajun disconnnector. But would really like it if I don't have to mess with the modifications. Call me lazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Received my T3 disco in todays mail. Took about an hour to fit. I realized if you use a one piece sear, you dont need to remove any material from the top of the wing. Here's my youtube video of before and after. https://youtu.be/3Zn8WknTniE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvincent Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 So.. If you have a one piece sear , just need to enlarge the hole? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaSeeker Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 i spoke to CGW and asked that they produce a model with a pin hole on .105 . Nothing else needs to be done. If they want to make a drop-in for the OEM 2 piece sear, then they would have to thin the wing. For the one pice sear, no other mods required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SISIG Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Received my T3 disco in todays mail. Took about an hour to fit. I realized if you use a one piece sear, you dont need to remove any material from the top of the wing. Here's my youtube video of before and after. What did you do to enlarge the hole? Is that all it take? Is there any drag from the disconnector to the gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesquire Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 i spoke to CGW and asked that they produce a model with a pin hole on .105 . Nothing else needs to be done. If they want to make a drop-in for the OEM 2 piece sear, then they would have to thin the wing. For the one pice sear, no other mods required. I'd buy one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SISIG Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I would love to see the CGW Disco withe Xtreme DA Trigger. Has any body done this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I needed to thin the underside of the wing for disengagement from the TB. I used the same dremel bits Adam did to enlarge the hole. But in addition to his bits, I uses a diamond bit I already owned that measured .103. It's like it was made for this job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I just fitted 4 of these, 2 on stock 2's and 2 on stock 3's, the only thing I had to do was open up the pin hole and take a small amount off the leg, see attached pic. I highly recommend doing this, it makes quite a difference. I'll apologize upfront if I seem dense on this. But I'm still trying to figure out exactly which surfaces of the T3 disco need work. I see Adam's photo (attached here again) showing the surface to remove material from. But then I also see posts from others talking about working on wings, faces and legs. I'm sure this will make more sense once I tear the gun down and start reassembly with new parts. But I'm trying to get a clearer understanding about which areas of the T3 disco will need modification to install in a Stock III with a once-piece sear. What I think I know: 1. The pin hole needs to be enlarged 2. The leg surface, as shown in this photo, needs work. If there's anything else, it would be so helpful (and I realize I'm asking a lot) to see a photo with arrows pointing to the area that needs work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I struggled with this myself before I started to work on mine, I ended up ruining one disco before I successfully fit the other 4. The only material you need to remove is the area the arrow is pointing to in the picture. If there is too much material on there the trigger will not be allowed to reset thus the need to remove some of the material. This image helped me imensly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) I struggled with this myself before I started to work on mine, I ended up ruining one disco before I successfully fit the other 4. The only material you need to remove is the area the arrow is pointing to in the picture. If there is too much material on there the trigger will not be allowed to reset thus the need to remove some of the material. This image helped me imensly That is quite the helpful picture. I know this sounds backwards but I remove material off the trigger bar (the area where the disconnector rides in) instead of the disconnector itself on the CZ75. I have found it was easier to remove metal and polish afterwards. Plus the CZ75 trigger bar is cheaper than the disco. Edited April 9, 2015 by himurax13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I struggled with this myself before I started to work on mine, I ended up ruining one disco before I successfully fit the other 4. The only material you need to remove is the area the arrow is pointing to in the picture. If there is too much material on there the trigger will not be allowed to reset thus the need to remove some of the material. This image helped me imensly It must be different for everyone. I never had to touch that part, the trigger would reset fine, but the hammer wouldn't drop in DA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I struggled with this myself before I started to work on mine, I ended up ruining one disco before I successfully fit the other 4. The only material you need to remove is the area the arrow is pointing to in the picture. If there is too much material on there the trigger will not be allowed to reset thus the need to remove some of the material. This image helped me imensly Thanks dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I didn't need to touch the backside of the vertical hook. All I did was open up the pin hole, then file down the bottom side of the wing. This was to allow disengagement from the trigger bar. I took a little material off at a time and installed everything to check for fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 FYI, I just heard back from David at CGW about my request for a Tanfoglio specific disco, and this was his response: "This will take some months, I do not currently know or have the exact dimensions we need." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesquire Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Anyone have a link to what you used to open up the hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaSeeker Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 Use a diamond bit for the Dremel [0.103] from Lowes or Harbor Freight diamond files [the round one]. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaSeeker Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 FYI, I just heard back from David at CGW about my request for a Tanfoglio specific disco, and this was his response: "This will take some months, I do not currently know or have the exact dimensions we need." I guess Tanfo disco's are not a big enough market. I told him that the only thing needed was a larger hole. They could actually use a much larger hole and provide a bushing to allow use on CZ and Tanfo. Would not have to make different versions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertLx Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I have a set similar to this. http://www.micromark.com/20-piece-Diamond-Coated-Micro-Burr-Set-1and8-Inch-Shank,7593.html?sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CMuWh_DK6cQCFYw8gQodcVUA7w Adam recommended theses. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9910 http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=7144 I used them to get the hole started, but they only opened the hole to .098. Too tight for the roll pin. There was a bit in the set I have that measured .102. Again, I'm not sure if the set I have is the same as above. The bits look similar, but my kit is old that I got from my dad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 It must be different for everyone. I never had to touch that part, the trigger would reset fine, but the hammer wouldn't drop in DA. After reading this entire thread, Im thinking there is a different process and not just one. You have the one piece sear vs the two piece. What about the three different hammers? Is that affecting the required material removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 You're probably right. I do want to try it again now with my backup gun now that I have a better idea of the process, but in reality, I'm not sure the 2mm or less of reduced pretravel is really worth anything on the clock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I think I lucked out. I had an extra 1 piece sear i just installed. Waiting for Robertlx to confirm but I may just have to enlarge the hole, and remove material from the bottom of the wing. From looking at his trigger pull vid I think its worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 You're probably right. I do want to try it again now with my backup gun now that I have a better idea of the process, but in reality, I'm not sure the 2mm or less of reduced pretravel is really worth anything on the clock I replaced the sear on my back-up gun that had the T3 and it is not dropping on DA too. I may get in there and tune that again. But for about a year of having a T3 installed in my gun, in terms of difference on the clock, not worth all the work it needs to run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yagi Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Listen to him (Torogi). He is one heck of a Tanfo Tuner.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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