cvincent

I think it’s just the nature of the beast. It’s a spring loaded decapper, it’s literally getting hammered every time it decaps. I’ve probably broken 10. You can grab them at a hardware store. 1/4” E clip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The lee universal decap has a square shoulder that gets stuck on the case mouth as well. So what I do is, stick it in your drill and bevel the shoulder so it’s a smooth transition from the actual decap pin to shaft. Works good and the die and pins are cheap to replace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Apologize as I have no answers to your questions, but I’m curious why Mark 7 would sue a brass supplier?

I ran many a loaded rounds through a GRX till one got super stuck.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still get a few flipped primers, haven’t been able to get it 100%. I’ve tried mousepads, angling it all different directions, perfectly straight and plumb, tried all kinds of stuff. What’s worked best for me is, I wrapped a zip tie around the base of the unit around the black spring thing, and kept tightening the zip tie while it’s running to slow the primers down. It has a rheostat but it’s still too fast imo. Also adjust the stabilizer plate to where primers just barely go in. It usually takes a line of primers to push them through the plate, if there’s one or two primers only, they won’t go through. That also slows them down after the stabilizer plate, they have to work a little bit to get through, and it spaces them out a little. I’ve thought about getting a short extension cord and adding another rheostat to that, to slow them down a scoshe more. I feel that’s the problem. They just go too fast after the stabilizer plate, the line of primers pushes the primer that’s trying to go down the hole and it flips it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I found out which boring bar that honey badger uses and bought one from somewhere else. Cheapest I found it was 90 bucks. And you have to cut it down to length. I don’t know anything about machining, so I didn’t know how to read or measure inserts, so I bought one of honey badgers for 20$. So all in all it wasn’t a whole lot cheaper. Inserts are like 5$ elsewhere if you know what one you need. The boring bar does make better cut, no real chamfering though. I use an M die to flare the neck, and that will remove the inside burr, and a Lee FCD will remove the outside burr. So not really an issue IMO. My biggest issue was the mass amount of brass shavings clogging up the trimming die, vacuum manifold, and vacuum hose. The boring bar has a chip breaker so the shavings are smaller, I also plumbed in PVC pipe instead of vacuum hose. Seems to work great now. This is on a mark 7 650 so the feed rate is probably higher than manual press, but I would think that the shavings could still be an issue. They would actually clog up the trim die and the router would pull to much juice and trip the 15 amp circuit breaker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I’m flying, they go in the 100 round boxes. Any other time, they’re in ammo cans and buckets. I always have an ammo can full, ready to go, in my conveyance. Local match, I grab a few handfuls and dump em in a pouch, stick it in the range bag. Practice session, straight outta the ammo can. I don’t case gauge ever. Sold the Hundo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s the call as an RO if a shooters belt partially falls off during a stage? Couldn’t find anything in the rules that specifically states this. Had a few people say he should get a re shoot, including a certified RO, I caught some slack for not stopping the shooter. I don’t see it as grounds for re shoot. Same as if any other piece of a shooters equipment fails, ie; gun or mags. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I seriously doubt it will accommodate an offset optic. I don’t have an offset optic, but it’s tight with a c more railway and a Magwell Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made a simple “sensor” to detect if the primer wheel is not rotating. It beeps every time the wheel indexes. Works well, but could use a little refinement, it blocks the live primer chute partially. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn’t worry about static or sparking. I run the voltage from a 9v battery though my 650primer system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I loaded these to 1.120” they fed fine also in my STI edge. I’m using the Acme coated 140s. And I think they may still be a little long for the bullet profile as they tend to stick slightly when ejecting the rounds by hand. Next time I’ll go deeper. I was kinda rushed when making these for a steel match. My biggest problem is getting them to feed through the mr bulletfeeder. It takes some super fine tuning to get them to flip, and then they like to drop into the output tube sideways and jam the whole thing up. [emoji849] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

this load is badass. I don’t really like minor with heavy bullets as the slide speed seems slow and sluggish to me. 140gr projectile. 3.8 gr of prima SV. 124 PF out of 5” infinity. Crazy soft, less recoil than 9mm. 11lb recoil spring. Tried a 7 and a 8 lb but the recoil was more harsh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran completed cartridges through a GRX before, and then one got stuck. A live round stuck in the die. I ended up detonating it into the ground with a hammer tied to string, a nail, and the die clamped to a piece of plywood as I was hiding behind a forklift. Was kinda scary, till it detonated and then was very anticlimactic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk