praetorian97 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 If I want more over travel after reset is this the surface I want to remove material from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgil275 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Pretravel? Yes that's the correct leg. I read Himurax (hope that's correct) would take from the trigger bar. Never tried that but the idea makes a lot of sense and sounds much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I just know on a SA Limited if you dont have some play in the over travel, you will have reset issues during live fire. On this S3 there is like zero slack after reset. Im Skerrrdd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I just know on a SA Limited if you dont have some play in the over travel, you will have reset issues during live fire. On this S3 there is like zero slack after reset. Im Skerrrdd. Its hard to say if it will work until you shoot it. It is a fine line having zero slack and malafunctioning pistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgil275 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Do you prefer a short reset like that? If so, try a magazine with dummy rounds. Dry fire and cycle and check for positive reset. Working through a full magazine. That would be a good safe starting point to see if there is enough play for positive reset after everything moves around each time it's cycled by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 (edited) I'll have to try that. I have some L2 matches coming up that I'd really like to try this beast out in. I've learned my lesson about not pre-checking gear first though. I'm a fan of short resets. Not because I think I can feel it in the heat of the moment but more because it helps combat trigger freeze. Less chance of short stroking the trigger on close up hoser targets. The sear does move during live fire so there may be some play left that can affect the amount of material I took off the wing for DA and maybe some potential reset in SA. Edited April 14, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrianmdq Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) Anyone know if cajungunworks.com sent outside USA ? I am from Argentine, Best regards Edited April 18, 2015 by adrianmdq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Adrian email them and they will let you know. Very good customer service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrianmdq Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Adrian email them and they will let you know. Very good customer service. Yes I email today, but perhaps is too late. Thank you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrianmdq Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) Ohhh. They do not sent outside usa. Can anybody help me... I buy the disco and sent to your address, later I transfer the money via PayPal to your account for pay the shipping to Argentine. I sincerely appreciate Best regards! Edited April 18, 2015 by adrianmdq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 I don't thnk anyone here wants an all expense trip to "club fed" for exporting gun parts wo license! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 I think I learned something from Henning today. Stated that the sear and hammer should not contact on DA pull. If so its a sign of over travel being too tight. I think Im going to take some material off the T3 disco and see if that helps my light primer strike I see every 10 rounds in DA. I took at look at my CZ SP01 with T2 disco and it does not drag on the hammer in DA pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrianmdq Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 I don't thnk anyone here wants an all expense trip to "club fed" for exporting gun parts wo license!I don't know that is not legal. Sorry. I thought it was just insert the disco in an envelope and mail it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 If I want more over travel after reset is this the surface I want to remove material from? correct, (since I originally posted the picture ) Remove a small amount at a time and reinstall it in the gun, I have about 1/3 of the original amount of take up compared to a factory gun and all of my guns work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 When on the timer, this mod will do nothing for you. It didn't decrease my SA pull weight either. In fact, when I was done, it increased the pull weight by 2oz. I also installed the CGW trs at the same time, so I can't be sure which part is actually to blame for the increase. I did the mod for the hell of it. I thought it would be cool to try. Since I'm bringing it to my first match with it Sunday, everyone there will be fondling it. They will be judging it by the trigger feel and pull weight. This is very interesting! I bought the CGW RP TRS and put it in my S3 during the first phase of my trigger job. I also though it increased the DA pull weight slightly. The trigger pull gauge supported my feeling. I was actually able to get my hands on a S2 and started moving parts over from the S3 to it, and even feeling the two springs side by side, the factory Tanfo spring feels lighter. I ended up outing that in the spring and leaving the CGW one out. I think we are running into the situation, that yes the CGW spring is a reduction in weight from the factory CZ spring, but the factory Tanfo spring is actually lighter than the reduced weight CGW spring. You need to remember these parts aren't originally designed for a Tanfo, they were instead designed for a CZ. Anyone else have the same experience? BTW, the LRA RP sear spring is in fact lighter than the factory Tanfo spring. It is advertised for Tanfo's though, so that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhjeffs Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 When on the timer, this mod will do nothing for you. It didn't decrease my SA pull weight either. In fact, when I was done, it increased the pull weight by 2oz. I also installed the CGW trs at the same time, so I can't be sure which part is actually to blame for the increase. I did the mod for the hell of it. I thought it would be cool to try. Since I'm bringing it to my first match with it Sunday, everyone there will be fondling it. They will be judging it by the trigger feel and pull weight. This is very interesting! I bought the CGW RP TRS and put it in my S3 during the first phase of my trigger job. I also though it increased the DA pull weight slightly. The trigger pull gauge supported my feeling. I was actually able to get my hands on a S2 and started moving parts over from the S3 to it, and even feeling the two springs side by side, the factory Tanfo spring feels lighter. I ended up outing that in the spring and leaving the CGW one out. I think we are running into the situation, that yes the CGW spring is a reduction in weight from the factory CZ spring, but the factory Tanfo spring is actually lighter than the reduced weight CGW spring. You need to remember these parts aren't originally designed for a Tanfo, they were instead designed for a CZ. Anyone else have the same experience? BTW, the LRA RP sear spring is in fact lighter than the factory Tanfo spring. It is advertised for Tanfo's though, so that makes sense. Yes. I put the CGW trigger return spring in and my DA pull went up roughly a half pound. I'm going to order a couple extra Tanfo springs and put the original back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 For some reason I like the idea of a drill bit better than the diamond grinding tips that seem like it would leave the whole rough and out of round. I found two closer options, will either of these work?: 0.1040" - http://www.grainger.com/product/MONSTER-Jobber-Drill-Bit-36XH96?nls=1&searchQuery=36XH96 0.1060" - http://www.grainger.com/product/MONSTER-Jobber-Drill-Bit-36XH99?nls=1&searchQuery=36XH99 Both are carbide with a TiAlN coating and about $15 Or am I over thinking this.... So I ended up getting one of the TiAlN 0.1040" bits (brand was Monster) and was quite surprised! After hearing all the trouble you guys had with it, I tightened the disco up in my vice with aluminum jaws, chucked up the bit in my cordless drill (1500 RPM) and opened up the hole in no more than 5 seconds! Went back with some 600 then 1500 grit sand paper, and some metal polish on a cardboard q tip shaft. Whole process took me 5 min maybe... Because I was doing it free hand my hole ended up between 0.104 and 0.106, but I'm not concerned. It would have been better on a press but I do not have one at home. The disco flops around completely freely on the pin in the hammer. The factory one was actually slightly snug on the pin. I think the 0.1040" is the right sized bit to go with. I installed it and like many people found I need to do some fitting. BTW, a cut length of cardboard q tip shaft works as a perfect slave pin for test fitting. My plan for fitting it is going to be the following: 1. File the bottom of the wing until the trigger bar is able to drop below it and release the disco/hammer. (Right now it will not) 2. I think only after the first step is done will I consider taking any material off the front of the wing. That will reduce the rearward movement of the hammer on the da pull. I would think you would want that to go as far back as possible without engaging the hammer hooks on the sear. This step may not even be necessary as I've heard from some. 3. Lastly, if I decide I want more pre-travel on my trigger in SA I will remove some material from the back of the main leg where it engages the notch in the middle trigger bar. I'll report back on my experience when I'm done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhjeffs Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 For some reason I like the idea of a drill bit better than the diamond grinding tips that seem like it would leave the whole rough and out of round. I found two closer options, will either of these work?: 0.1040" - http://www.grainger.com/product/MONSTER-Jobber-Drill-Bit-36XH96?nls=1&searchQuery=36XH96 0.1060" - http://www.grainger.com/product/MONSTER-Jobber-Drill-Bit-36XH99?nls=1&searchQuery=36XH99 Both are carbide with a TiAlN coating and about $15 Or am I over thinking this.... So I ended up getting one of the TiAlN 0.1040" bits (brand was Monster) and was quite surprised! After hearing all the trouble you guys had with it, I tightened the disco up in my vice with aluminum jaws, chucked up the bit in my cordless drill (1500 RPM) and opened up the hole in no more than 5 seconds! Went back with some 600 then 1500 grit sand paper, and some metal polish on a cardboard q tip shaft. Whole process took me 5 min maybe... Because I was doing it free hand my hole ended up between 0.104 and 0.106, but I'm not concerned. It would have been better on a press but I do not have one at home. The disco flops around completely freely on the pin in the hammer. The factory one was actually slightly snug on the pin. I think the 0.1040" is the right sized bit to go with. I installed it and like many people found I need to do some fitting. BTW, a cut length of cardboard q tip shaft works as a perfect slave pin for test fitting. My plan for fitting it is going to be the following: 1. File the bottom of the wing until the trigger bar is able to drop below it and release the disco/hammer. (Right now it will not) 2. I think only after the first step is done will I consider taking any material off the front of the wing. That will reduce the rearward movement of the hammer on the da pull. I would think you would want that to go as far back as possible without engaging the hammer hooks on the sear. This step may not even be necessary as I've heard from some. 3. Lastly, if I decide I want more pre-travel on my trigger in SA I will remove some material from the back of the main leg where it engages the notch in the middle trigger bar. I'll report back on my experience when I'm done. I made a little jig for the drill press. Works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Nice! That is the RIGHT way to do this, if you want your hole to be true to the size of the bit and perfectly square. What size drill bit did you go with again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhjeffs Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 The same one as you and the other guys. #37, .104" carbide drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Oh, I only saw the one other guy that used the #36 (0.106") I was afraid that seemed too big so I went smaller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 For some reason I like the idea of a drill bit better than the diamond grinding tips that seem like it would leave the whole rough and out of round. I found two closer options, will either of these work?: 0.1040" - http://www.grainger.com/product/MONSTER-Jobber-Drill-Bit-36XH96?nls=1&searchQuery=36XH96 0.1060" - http://www.grainger.com/product/MONSTER-Jobber-Drill-Bit-36XH99?nls=1&searchQuery=36XH99 Both are carbide with a TiAlN coating and about $15 Or am I over thinking this.... So I ended up getting one of the TiAlN 0.1040" bits (brand was Monster) and was quite surprised! After hearing all the trouble you guys had with it, I tightened the disco up in my vice with aluminum jaws, chucked up the bit in my cordless drill (1500 RPM) and opened up the hole in no more than 5 seconds! Went back with some 600 then 1500 grit sand paper, and some metal polish on a cardboard q tip shaft. Whole process took me 5 min maybe... Because I was doing it free hand my hole ended up between 0.104 and 0.106, but I'm not concerned. It would have been better on a press but I do not have one at home. The disco flops around completely freely on the pin in the hammer. The factory one was actually slightly snug on the pin. I think the 0.1040" is the right sized bit to go with. I installed it and like many people found I need to do some fitting. BTW, a cut length of cardboard q tip shaft works as a perfect slave pin for test fitting. My plan for fitting it is going to be the following: 1. File the bottom of the wing until the trigger bar is able to drop below it and release the disco/hammer. (Right now it will not) 2. I think only after the first step is done will I consider taking any material off the front of the wing. That will reduce the rearward movement of the hammer on the da pull. I would think you would want that to go as far back as possible without engaging the hammer hooks on the sear. This step may not even be necessary as I've heard from some. 3. Lastly, if I decide I want more pre-travel on my trigger in SA I will remove some material from the back of the main leg where it engages the notch in the middle trigger bar. I'll report back on my experience when I'm done. Every time I think I understand which parts of the disconnector you guys are working on, I get confused again. Particularly when we start talking about tops and bottoms of wings, etc.. Maybe I'm just dense. But it would be so helpful, if one of you guys could post a photo with arrows, pointing to the exact surfaces referenced in posts like the one above. I have a couple of these that I'd like to install in my Stock IIs, but I keep holding off, thinking I'm still not 100 percent sure where I need to remove material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 When I do the actual fitting I'll try to take a couple pictures. I can try to clarify tough, If I understand it right, lol. When you pull the trigger, the trigger bar moves rearward in a straight back direction, until the little angled ramps on the trigger bar contact the little angled ramps on the bottom of the sear cage, then for that short distance it moves at a downward angle until it releases the disco, and therefor the hammer. When you install the disco, sometimes if pull the trigger and the hammer never falls in DA it means there is too much material on the bottom of the wing, if you take a small amount of material off, it will allow the trigger bar and disco to disengage at the end of the pull, with the vertical movement of the trigger bar. The only time you ever need to remove material from the top of the wing is when you are using the two piece sear because there is another arm that reaches down to the trigger par to deactivate the firing pin block. I am using a one piece sear so I leave the top alone. Does that help at all? When I have a little more time I'll try to post a few pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 I think so. But yeah, pics would be awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 (edited) http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=213730&hl=+pimp Edited May 21, 2015 by praetorian97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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